Dinner Party TNs--so there IS a *perfect* wine out there

WINE TALK
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Tonight was pretty special. I opened 6 wines of which I only have a bottle each, and paired them with some 7 courses. Joining BBers Jeff Wong, Tran Bronstein and Jay Shampur were good friends Charlotte Embree, Daun Bailey and her husband Jeff. Laughter, appreciation, suggestions on cooking ingredients, and lots of wine talk…what could any evening want more?

With assorted cheeses

1998 Kalin Semillon

Had a lot of fun with the mystery wine, though a wet cork and a corked-type nose had me worried. But it wasn’t corked, definitely not, on the palate. Blind, I would have said older Cali Chard. There’s still a distinct creamy and tropical fruit combo going on, though it has probably started very slightly onto its downhill slide. But, like all the other wines of theirs I’ve had (I’m pretty sure this is my first Sem), it’s idiosyncratic—and likeable.

With Peach Amaretto Fruit Soup

2009 Marcassin 3 Sisters Chardonnay

I poured a small taste for my friend Dave and I on Thursday, and then recorked it. Suffered not at all for that exposure. Such a determined presentation, precision and leashed power. Comparisons to a Meursault, with a flint-and-nut nose intermingled with pear, maybe some salinity and a very tiny toffee. It does drink tropical, with notes of peach, guava, even mango, and sharply contoured, but not flabby or heavy in any way. A very different animal from Aubert, with which I am much more familiar, but this is a fine, fine effort. On many nights, would be in the WOTN race.

[with tossed salad and] with Pasta with pheasant done in white wine, olive oil, truffle oil, garlic powder and tarragon and mixed with turmeric, saffron, pineapple rum, honey, salt, cream and massandra rose sauce.

2003 Ferraton Le Reverdy Ermitage Blanc

I have been very patient, having waited over 7 years from my last taste of this. I think I did give it enough time to come out of its sleep, because the bouquet is explosive with honeyed melon and poached pear fruit. I’m not quite as enthralled on the palate, which lacks some energy and vision, but it was an excellent match with this peculiar dish (everyone did seem to like the sauce, Jay mentioning that it could perhaps use a bit more acid—the trouble I have is balancing that with having the turmeric, and its attendant bitterness, take over. But the pheasant was a great help to this sauce.)

With short ribs in ancho chili, coffee, maple syrup, lime juice, chipotle, adobo sauce and lagavulin whisky marinade

2006 Lamborn Serendipity Zinfandel

Well, with one of the great ladies of California, how could I not? I asked "so who is the other “great lady” in California. Daun immediately piped up, “Heidi Barrett”. Voila

As soon as I uncorked it, flower and earth-filled aromatics weaved around rich blackberry and field berry. Possibly some chokecherry too. This is refined dans la bouche, ebbs and flows across the tongue and down the throat with whispers only of pepper and touches of meatiness all coated in black cherry, blackberry goodness with a lingonberry sidebar. I am glad I have some left over to try tomorrow, but it was as graceful a Zin as I’ve had in a long while.

with pasta in rose sauce

2006 Rousseau Clos de la Roche

Well, of course I wasn’t going to put this with the short ribs. Are ye daft?? This one I left open last night for slow-ox and then decanted for 4 hours. I think that did the trick. It smells nice. Very nice. There are florals aplenty coming from the somm glass and wild berry and very light touch of chestnut are there. But this makes its mark in the mouth, where it is pure silk and has a lovely, light, strawberry-filled essence about it. Is this structured, contemplative, multi-layered burgundy? No. Is this pleasure-filled, sublimely pretty, coquettish Burgundy? You bet. A definite winner.

With Pear frangipane, Roquefort cheese…and on its own, of course.

2001 Chateau D’Yquem

From a split. The only recent experience I can equate this to is the life-giving massage I had a few weeks ago after going without one for about 6 years. There was some moaning, and I’m man enough to admit it. The nose, the bouquet—it smells of EVERYTHING. At different times, pine needles, pear, coconut, lime, vanilla bean, exotic spices…they all capture your nose. And later, lilacs and other tremendous florals. To lift the nose out of the glass…it’s an effort. But it’s worth the effort once you put it in your mouth. As many fine 01s as I’ve drunk, in my secret heart of hearts, I wondered----could the legend really be the legend? Well, folks, yes it could. I decanted this for 8 hours on Wednesday, took a small amount for Dave and I on Thursday (at which point it was unbelievably pure, with lime and kiwi charging across the tongue), then slow-oxed it for 5 hours today. Citrus, ginger, vanilla, pineapple, pear, star fruit…all play their part, I guess, but all are supporting actors for just the absolute mesmerizing quality of this wine. Quality. There’s a one-word tasting note if ever I needed it. It is a wine that, indeed, I don’t really think I’ll forget the taste of, the feel of, as long as I live. Hurrah—there IS a perfect wine out there. 100 points. As much as I could have happily hoarded this for myself, it was even more satisfying for me to share it with friends. And don’t worry, folks—my small sample lasted me an hour.

Kwa Heri,

Mike

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Totally agree. 01 Yquem is a legend! Had the privilege of drinking it blind due to some incredible generosity and I still have a salient memory of its experience.

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Had a 2001 Yquem from a 750 ml. last weekend - an amazing wine for sure. Fortunately I bought enough for me and my son, because it will seemingly last forever…

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Easily could have waited 30 years, Jerry. Fine as the frangipane was, it was really no match for this wine. The Roquefort intensified the sweetness and brought out a little more of the botrytis, but with no compromise to the stunning balance.

Sipping on the Marcassin a few hours later, it still retains its flavour, but has lost some vitality. There, it differs from a top white burg…

Faryan, I’ll probably doom myself with this statement, but having had it, I would have a hard time believing I’d ever miss this one if served it in a future blind tasting.

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Great notes Mike!!! The '01 d’Yquem is something special - one of the few wines I kick myself for not buying more of from 1/2 bottle. Got plenty of 750s but really should have gone hog wild when purchasing the 1/2s at those stupidly low release prices (relatively low :p). “Citrus, ginger, vanilla, pineapple, pear, star fruit” - yeppers, Yum!

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Nice. Yes the 01 is one of the greatest wines of this generation. Just amazing.

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I know it’s been said before - but - the '01 d’Yquem is the only bottle of wine that I can think of that doesn’t have a single detractor (from memory :p). Everyone that smells/tastes it has the same reaction - legendary! This is a very rare thing for a wine to obtain this kind of status if you think about all the different wants/likes out there…

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Very nice job Mike!!! The 01 d’Yquem will continue to evolve but only get different. It is an absolutely stunning Sauternes.

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Of course there’s a perfect wine out there and ahem it just so happens to be a sweet wine. Take that, dry wine lovers!

In all seriousness, firstly a thank you to Michael for his generousity in sharing his food and drink with us all last night. Our first endeavor together was a co-production but this show was entirely his and I will be returning the favor in the very near future. In regards to the wine itself:

  • Ah, the fun and joy of being served wines blind. Or in this case, the stress. The 98 Kailin Semillon literally had me squirming in the chair that the thought of this truly enjoyable wine might actually be a Burgundy Chardonnay. Would I finally have to completely turn in my ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) membership?

Fortunately, it turned out to be Semillon. Whew! That was a close one. But the most impressive thing to me about this wine wasn’t its creamy smooth entry and tropical fruit flavors and very nice and subtle toasty lees flavor on the finish – it’s the fact that it was 18 years old.

I have begun noticing more and more that just as well-made red wines tend to get silkier as they get older, well-made white wines tend to get creamier. And once again, another white wine that can age as long as a red one or at least close to it. A spectacular wine on all counts. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED… if you can still get your hands on some, that is

  • And then Mike has to bring out an actual Chardonnay just to really break me down, but not just any Chardonnay. This lovely California Chardonnay was also creamy and tropical and really quite beautiful. I actually topped up my glass…ssshhhhhh… I was quite suprised that it was so young being just an 09 but the Clos Saint Jean from Jay Hack’s visit was even younger at 2011 and had similar characteristics on the palate so I guess age is not necessarily an indicator of how well-rounded a wine’s texture is. I actually preferred this to the Auberts I had at Mike’s which were great. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

  • The Ermitage (or Hermitage, both terms appear to be correct) Blanc was absolutely incredible. Reminded me immediately of the aforesaid Clos Saint Jean but the combination of Marsanne along with the Roussane with the age on the wine made for an incredibly rich and creamy wine with great depth. Perhaps not as vibrant as the CSJ but I can forgive it due to its age. Still an absolutely incredible wine. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Guys, seriously, Roussane and Marsanne are pretty much set to overtake Pinot Gris as my favorite French white grape. Ridiculously good stuff.

  • Just as I have been getting my Chardonnay upcommeance, so did Jay get his by declaring that all Zinfadel was crap before trying this Zinfadel made by California winemaker and living legend Heidi Barrett. I am actually a supporter of Zinfadel as a viable source of fine high-end red wine having attended a wine event devoted to Zinfadel once in Toronto and getting a great feel for the many different types of wine expressions that can be made from quality Zinfadel. I assure you there was not a single sickly White Zinfadel wine among them. Mike has it right, an extremely graceful red wine that all Zinfadel haters should be made to drink. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

  • The Close de La Roche was yet another fine example of wines that make me say out loud “Ignorance really is truly bliss.” I literally took one whiff and sip of this stellar Burgundy Pinot Noir, looked up at Mike and said, “How do you expect me to drink another Ontario Pinot Noir after this?” You may as well add Alsace, Germany, New Zealand, Austria and Australia to that list. Liquid strawberry silk going down. AFWE scores another win. If this is a wine without flavor, I’ll take it over plain spring water every day. Thanks. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

  • The Yquem. OMFG. Okay, let’s be honest – I don’t care how much of a wine lover or complete neophyte you are, if you have never had an Yquem before like myself you are always wondering if the stuff is really, truly that far and above beyond all other Sauternes.

But for God’s sake, there’s video on YouTube of Berserkers in blazing hot Arizona who have created custom temperature-controlled Yquem cellars within their own cellar! Can it really be THAT special?

Oh hell yes. I took a whiff of this and looked up at Michael and just said what he put quite rightly in his note – This smells of everything. Every aroma you have ever associated with Sauternes, it’s all in here. No need to bore you with notes, Mike hit all of them. You could’ve heard a hush over everyone as we tasted this and the blue cheese only made it even better.

Just one thing I wanted to mention. After I was finished drinking mine, I decided to nose the glass again. I just felt compelled to do it with the Yquem due to its greatness and I’m very glad I did. The empty glass smelled exactly the same as the full glass did. I mean, literally not one iota of difference. Blindfolded, I would swear I was smelling a full glass. Okay, cool, but I did just finish drinking it.

10 minutes later, exactly the same intense aroma. 20 minutes later, exactly the same intense aroma. 30 minutes later, exactly the same intense aroma. At that point, I was starting to resemble a coke junkie I was sniffing so long and so hard. I couldn’t have cared less. EXTREMELY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED and yes, the legend Yquem is worth every penny. Hmmm… I’m going to have break into that Agrawal guy’s house and get me some… champagne.gif


P. S. The LCBO being crap that it is carries just one very expensive Ermitage (or Hermitage, it seems both titles are accepted) Blanc while the SAQ in Montreal carries a very reasonable range of 20 different Hermitage Blancs from $25 all the way up to $200 to suit all budgets. Welcome to a liquor monopoly province. [swearing.gif]

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This can’t be me - right [wow.gif]?

Great post Tran!

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It’s you [grin.gif]

The leftover Rousseau today is as pretty as it was on Sunday, maybe a small swatch of earthiness added to it, but not detracting at all from the silkiness. The Kalin today, it is clear that we got to it just in time—it’s still holding on but showing even more oxidative notes now. Will get to the leftover Lamborn and Ferraton tonight or tomorrow :wink:

Glad you enjoyed the evening so much, Tran, it was a pleasure to have you join us!

The halfsie of D’Yquem proudly sits in its place of honour—in the middle of the wall of fame.


Mike

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Tran said -
Of course there’s a perfect wine out there and ahem it just so happens to be a sweet wine. Take that, dry wine lovers!

I am a burgundy lover.


Perfect wine…is it the best wine to enjoy ?

There is an old story in the Kingdom of China…and it goes something like this:

Long, long time ago, the wine god Mr. Pak LEE organized monthly wine event. In the year of the Dragon, they seem to be very lucky. For the first few months they always encounter a perfect wine for each of the monthly events. So one of them suggest: `` Why don’t we invite the famous monk No Dust to join us so that we may see if he is indeed emotionless - like what legend said. I heard that he loves wines and likes very much assorted mushrooms dish.

No Dust - in Chinese, means someone has no desire what so ever in his heart. Pure… is what I think it means in English *.

So Mr. LEE sent out his invitation with a special note that they would also serve an assorted mushrooms dish to accompany the wine for their May meeting. It works out fine. The monk No Dust accepts their invitation.

Their lucky string of encountering a perfect wine continues. Everyone was very happy. Some stand up and yell: beautify wine…perfect. Perfect in every sense. Some even pound their fists on their chests and proclaim: 100 points. Parker is right again - really 100 points!

To their surprise the monk ```No Dustwho was supposed to be emotionless - joints them in celebration by jumping up and down and yells:I am so happy I come……it is perfect. 100% points. .

So the wine events continue like this for a few months and into the fall. They notice something change with No Dust in that he is either standing up anymore or hitting his fists on his chest; but still he would say the wine is perfect and that Parker is right again.

They sense perhaps No Dust is going back a little bit to his ordinary self… less emotion but one thing is good….he still attends their month events.

Finally December arrives and it is the month that they will, after this event, vote for the wine of the year. For this month somehow wine god Mr. LEE served a Burgundy (I forget the name of the wine ) and their lucky string of encountering a perfect wine each month seems come to an end.

The entire regular testers could tell that this Burgundy is not a 100 point wine. It is not 100 % perfect as it is not one of those perfectly made Bordeaux or Rhone type of wines which Parker cherished. The wine seems to be perhaps a 98 or 99 points. Close but no cigar in that it is definitely imperfect. Many of regular testers, including Mr. Lee, do not seem to agree upon what exact was this tiny little fault? Off balance ? Tannic ? Or Too much extraction?

They also notice too that No Dust seems to be puzzled a little bite about this Burgundy. He continues to sniff, to swirl in the big wine-glass with a question mark in his face. So finally …after 15 minutes……he stands up and say: `

This wine is not perfect. I could tell but not sure what is wrong. I think the wine-maker took too long in delaying the malo or harvest his grapes two days earlier. Hence off balance - with little high acid, not very high but just a little bite high? What do you guys think? `

Everyone went back to the wine….sniffing and swirling. Some agree with the monk; but other said: no. So the discussion goes on …and on.

Finally Mr. Lee said: I have a whole case of this wine. Why shouldn’t I open another bottle so that we may make sure what is wrong with this wine. So they open the 2nd bottle.

But unfortunately the discussion continue until way past mid-night and still no agreement.

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An interesting story, Peter, and if you’re saying everybody’s perfect is different, I certainly am not the one to argue. I would want everyone to read the thread title quite understanding that this was MY perfect wine—or the first one that I can ascribe that adjective to…hopefully there will be others, in fact I have a couple in mind that I think will get there with more bottle age.

But in terms of a melding of pleasure for the senses, pleasure for the mind and pleasure for the soul, this wine was the pinnacle of that combination for me.

I hope I’ve made my own thoughts a little clearer with this.

Sante,

Mike

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I’ll take a guess at Peter’s story (which I enjoyed very much; I have a thing for anticlimactic endings): It is that they spent more time with and had more interesting conversation regarding the “imperfect” wine.

…and great notes Mike & Tran! Was this Kalin Semillon from Livermore Valley? I had the '97 a couple years ago and it was a fascinating wine. If these vines are still in the ground I have no idea where.

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Link please?

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It’s the Livermore Valley, Larry.

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[thankyou.gif]

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Great notes, thanks! I’ve only had the 01 Yquem once, and it was great but not legendary. I’m hoping to try it again someday soon!

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@Howard: I’m not sure what the exact link is as I recall linking directly to it from another post on the board. Perhaps the man himself Jonathan could point us in the right direction or provide a helpful link?

@Peter: It’s funny that you should ask if perfect wine is indeed the best wine to enjoy because in my Riesling Chronicles post, I mentioned that I in fact consider great Alsace Riesling to be such a perfect expression of Riesling that I actually could not enjoy it on a regular basis as it would ironically lessen the experience of having it.

While I am 100% completely in agreement with Mike that 01 Yquem is indeed a perfect wine… it certainly is not something I would drink on a regular basis even if I could afford to. It is a special wine and should remain to be opened on special occasions.

You are also right that agreement on a perfect doesn’t engender much discussion. Just a lot of nods and quiet enjoyment of the wine, but not much discussion at all. Part of this was due to reverence, the other due to enjoying the experience so much. This is both good and bad where wine is concerned.

When I have tasted wines that have surprised me with others, however, like the Kalin above, the TENS Sauvignon Blanc project, the Clos Saint Jean CDP Blanc, the Argyros 20 YO Vinsanto and a few others like these… discussion has gone on for minutes over the wine. Part of Yquem’s problem is that everybody has heard of or read already of how great it is so there can be no surprises with it – only met or failed expectations which is quite a different experience.

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Tran and Mike…thanks for your thoughts.

I agree that 2001 Chateau D’Yquem is a perfect and 100 point wine. Glad you had the experience. It is quite similar to the 67…

I always love to read your threads, specially about your trips to shop with SAQ in Montreal. [pillow-fight.gif].

I am happy to-day …because your Torontonian do not need to carry a passport to come to shop at Montreal-Signature.


You are also right that agreement on a perfect doesn’t engender much discussion. Just a lot of nods and quiet enjoyment of the wine, but not much discussion at all. Part of this was due to reverence, the other due to enjoying the experience so much. This is both good and bad where wine is concerned.