Dinner @ Leve's: 90 Clos des Papes, 61 Pavie, 90 ZH, 01 Vieilles Julienne, 00 Mon Aieul, 98 Jaboulet

WINE TALK
1

On my birthday Traci and I headed out to Bel Air to hang with Jeff Leve and his wonderful lab Hercules, who decided that he should taste and spit a pound of shrimp from Bryan Flannery while Jeff was out grocery shopping. Oh well, not we didn’t have enough food. Traci and Jeff dutifully prepped and cooked everything in the kitchen while I watched, occasionally chopped something and entertained the dog…

The meal:
Heirloom tomato caprese with 100 year old balsamic
truffle risotto
spicy rock shrimp, squid and garden herbs
a really killer scallop dish
grilled pork rib cap with pancetta - this was amazing…thank you Bryan Flannery
foie gras on toast
heirloom tomato pie
grilled asparagus with fried egg and bread crumbs
42 day dry aged Flannery hangar steaks - wow.
blueberry crisp that Traci made.

While cooking, Traci and I usually grab a fun inexpensive white wine to sip…so when Jeff says we probably could use a glass of wine I am wondering what white wine does Jeff have in his cellar that he would open while cooking…what white wine does Jeff drink? Well, he comes out of the cellar with a 1990 Ch Magdelaine and a 2000 Mon Aieul. We opt for the Magdelaine. A wine that has definitely held up well, it showed nice ripe blackberry/cassis fruit along with a little tobacco leaf and sweet cedar. Ultimately though, the finish was short and the wine a little simple. So Jeff says what the heck, dump the Magdelaine and he pops the Mon Aieul. Now we are talking. This is a bit young, the tannins noticeable on the finish, but starting to drink very well. Ripe fruit, minerals, white pepper and spice. After an hour or so of being open the tannins mellowed and it really filled out. One of my 3 favorite wines of the evening.

The guests started to arrive, Chris L and his girlfriend, Frank Tota and his date. Chris brings a wine and pours it into the decanter and passes it out. Very clearly Riesling from the first smell and taste. Color is medium golden suggesting a little age. Doesn’t have that intense petrol or slate of a German Riesling so I say 1996 Riesling from Alsace. I think Traci said 1990 Alsace Riesling…whatever it is, it seems to be drinking very well with ripe apricots, a hint of petrol, some minerality and melon. It is silky smooth, concentrated and complete from front to back on the palate. The wine: 1990 Zind Humbrecht Riesling "Brand"

Another blind wine comes out…clearly northern Rhone given the violets/flower, red fruit, pepper, tannin and acid. Very nice wine but neither this nor the next wine reached the heights of the CdP’s…1998 Jaboulet "La Chappelle"

The second Northern Rhone wine blind. Clearly Northern Rhone but had a rusticity that maybe suggested Cornas. Very good wine and probably equal in pleasure to me with the Jaboulet…both wines low 90 pters if put to the task…1998 Tardieu Laurent Hermitage

Next wine is served blind by Jeff. First whiff suggests a Chateauneuf du Pape and while dark outside the color of the wine suggested a little bit of age and my mind began thinking 1998 CdP. Someone said northern Rhone I believe but I stuck to my guns. The wine was fantastic on the palate with coffee, rocks, black fruit, pepper with a nice long finish and nice fruit density…I couldn’t pin down producer but as far as red wine goes, with the Mon Aieul and this I was a very happy man at this point. Before the unveil, Jeff says, Tony what wine did you propose to Traci with and I said 2000 Clos des Papes. I thought no way could this be the 2000 Clos des Papes, it’s definitely older…1990 Clos des Papes What a terrific treat and a terrific bottle of wine.

At this point I think Tota showed up with a blind bottle of wine. Color was showing some definite bricking and while there were some guesses for older CdP, older Nor Rhone, I said older CA Cab and probably from the mid 70’s. And while this wasn’t the greatest bottle of wine it was an amazing treat to drink. Showing some cassis, a little hint of mint, saddle leather, with a shortish finish I would have liked to have spent a little more time with this wine but it was starting to fade a little bit in the glass…1961 Ch Pavie

Next up (and I may be messing the order up a bit) was yet another blind wine. This to me was clearly Australian. Why? The serious hit of euclyptus/menthol that assaulted your palate - mind you it is not a characteristic I like so your mileage may vary. And despite that, Traci loved it, it was a very, very good wine. The fruit was silky and layered ripe blackberry, with lots of menthol, smoke. Just a superb Aussie Shiraz that unfortunately didn’t resonate with me…1998 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz BTW - my guess was for a Wendouree Shiraz. At least that’s what the nose reminded me of…

At this point we decided to do a way with the blind tasting format, which was fun, but the buzz factor was creeping up and it was time to get to the serious biz of eating and drinking…Tota whips out a 1985 Mt Eden Estate Pinot Noir. Since Jeff hates Burgundy and really CA Pinot too, we made him take a couple pictures cuddling with the bottle. He thought it completely dead, we disagreed. Not the liveliest of Pinots but very tasty with dark fruit, leather, cranberry (or was the drink Tota’s date was drinking) and spice. A nice but not great example of aged CA Pinot.

Next up, one of my favorite wines of the night (even though I brought it and a couple concurred) was the 2001 Vieilles Julienne “Vieilles Vignes”. This has everything you want in an 8 year old CdP. Wonderful layers of ripe fruit, vanilla, herbs de provence, pepper…nice acidity and supple tannins. Just a rock star of a wine in an evening of wonderful wine and food…if I had to score it, it would garner 95 pts from me.

another last ditch attempt at a blind wine from Jeffois…as soon as I smelled this I knew exactly what it was. Clearly CA, clearly Syrah with the abundant ripe fruit, tar/creosote, pepper. I say, this is 2001 or 2002 DuMol “Eddies Patch” Syrah. Bingo, it was the 02 Eddies Patch. A different beast than the above wines but tremendous as well. If we weren’t so um well, you know…very very good.

We also knocked out a sweet wine with the dessert but at that point, who could keep track…I probably missing a wine or two since I took no notes so I could just savor the evening. A wonderful time in the backyard/poolside with fun company, great food and great wine. So much fun and I am sure Jeff’s lab is still full from the 42 day dry aged hangar steaks Traci and slipped to the big fella. Jeff is a great host and terrific cook and I always look forward to drinking some wine with him when down in LA.

2

10 great wines for 3 people.

[worship.gif]

3

Yeah, that’s pretty funny. Tota’s date didn’t drink wine and Traci drank lightly b/c she had a Pilates workout in the morning before we drove back up. So really 5 people for 11 bottles.

4

Why is Dumol Syrah in Leve’s cellar? newhere

5

Tony, that was a fun read, thanks. Some mighty fine blind guessing going on out there! No way would I know a DuMol Eddie’s Patch right off, even though I have had it a few times…

6

Tony; Glad you had a wonderful birthday! flirtysmile It sounds like a great evening with some fine wines and amazing blind guesses! [winner.gif]


Cheers!
Marshall [wink.gif]

7

T, nice read…so when’s Jeff going to post? Come on Jeff, you can play here too grouphug

8

Marshall - who is putting up the notes from our dinner on Sunday night? I thought the Burg flight was really good, the 02 Aubert awesome, and the Chablis and SQN whites very disappointing…the food and company on the other hand was great.

Jeff C - Jeff Leve and I discussed some of the board happenings (that shall remain private - eye opening but private) but I doubt he will post here anytime soon…I hope he will but unlikely. For all of Jeff’s faults he is very generous, a good friend and extremely fun to spend an evening with. I look forward to many more nights at his place in the coming years…Jeff, if you read this, you are welcome up here any time.

Tony

9

Jeff, if you do read this and all BS aside, please feel free to post here…seriously.

10

I agree Jeff, just please understand that I have been appointed special moderator for all such posts. [shock.gif]

[rofl.gif]

11

Jack, I extend and olive branch and you shit on it. Bad javelina, bad!

12

Common Tex. No shit intended. I laughed and it is in the past. [berserker.gif]

13

Fair enough.

Still…bad javelina!

14

I may stink, but not that bad. [barf.gif]

15

'Twas referring to the back hair…

16

How about simply emailing him instead of all the pleading? Otherwise the thread could simply end up as referendum, and I doubt that was Tony’s intent.

17

Waxed. I left the front for the Ron Jeremy allure.

18

Agreed 100%

19

Jim, I as well as several others have emailed Jeff directly with zero response.

20

That was a fun dinner. Hadn’t realized it was going to be quite so wine geeky…I think my date almost died. But I had a blast.

Amusingly, Lavin, who has a great palate, kept going on about how the '61 Pavie (which was blind to him, and which everyone but Tony thought from the 80s or 90s) had so much new oak treatment. Heh, Pavie. I got a kick out of that.

The CdPs were particularly tasty.

\

  • Frank newhere