Dinner on the 15th January 2009 was by a young Filipino chef who cooks at 2* Michelin Taillevent, but is in town for the next couple of weeks. The host was a regular drinking buddy’s mom-in-law who’s home is a short walk from mine.
As in any civilized dinner, welcome glasses of well-chilled bubbly were served before the meal while the reds started breathing in their decanters.
Cattier Champagne Clos du Moulin - Cattier’s 2.2 hectare Clos du Moulin is one of only three walled vineyards in the entire Champagne region, and the self-named cuvée is always a blend of three select vintages. This particular clos is regarded as a “premier cru vineyard”.
Originally named “Clos Allart” after its old owner, Allart de Maisonneuve, an officer of Louis XV, the clos was renamed after its purchase by Jean Cattier in 1951. The vineyard is planted to roughly equal proportions of pinot noir and chardonnay.
Very fresh, bright and lively, this linear, youthful-tasting champagne is citrus and crisp green apple driven with pronounced mineral, bread and yeast notes and a very slight “biscuity” nuance barely past mid-mouth. I didn’t remember to check the back label to see which three vintages were blended in this, but, I’d hazard this is likely the most current release, or, if not, the one just before it at the most.
Bracing acidity brings a playful zing to it. Some grapefruit emerges towards the back, and citrus notes dominate the finish. Good definition and focus in the fruit, if slightly overstated in citrus. Will likely round out and “creamify” later in life.
Dinner proper started off with an assortment of amuse bouches: Tarragon Infused Tomato Water & Extra Virgin Olive Oil; Carrot Parfait, Fried Ginger and Carrot Paint; Deviled Quail Egg with Basil Yolk; and, Braised Beef Wanton with Thyme and Fluer de Sel. With the battery of amuse bouches, we had:
2005 Domaine Henri Bourgeois La Demoiselle de Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé - I remember the first time I had this was at the IWFS Philippine Branch’s 25 Anniversary Dinner precisely paired with Fillet of Sea Bass on Celery Leek Ragout; seared Coffin Bay Scallop and Sea Urchin Beurre Blanc. Come to think of it, I recall having discussed this wine with Rene, Sr. during that dinner. I loved it then, had it several times thereafter, and still love it now.
My previous notes are still pretty accurate, the wine lip-smackingly dry, crisp and bright with clean citrus, mild gooseberry and guava notes, a whisper of celery, inherent white minerality and healthy acidity giving a nice lift . I add now that the wine’s fruit, particularly the guava, seems riper and is notably more forward then over a year ago.
I chose this wine primarily because Pouilly-Fumé (and Sancerre blancs as well) is one of the few wines that can pair naturally well with the usually wine-unfriendly tomato; and, secondly, because I knew it would pair well with the fish course and the immediately following soup of Roasted Shallot Bisque, Crème Fraiche with Stewed Onions and Chive Oil as well.
The carrot parfait was ethereally textured and gently sweet, favored most everyone else at the table. I, personally, loved the deviled quail egg with basil yolk, myself since I’ve loved deviled eggs ever since childhood - the green, basil infused yolk a delight to the eyes and the mouth, while the braised beef wanton with thyme and fleur de sel readied our palates for the heavier fare to come.
The Roasted Shallot Bisque was precisely executed- not ponderously creamy as most bisques are in these parts, rather, it was properly fluid as a bisque should be without giving up any body or flavor despite the judicious use of cream.
Following the soup course was a Roulade of Squab Confit with a Salad of Haricot Vert, Radish, Watercress, Caper and Date Puree with which we switched to:
Eté de Mondot par Christine Valette - The rosé of Château Troplong Mondot of St-Emilion which Chrisitine Valette owns and runs. Someone noted that the label carried no vintage. Curious, I looked it up, and, per Jancis Robinson, the reason is because Bordeaux authorities refused to grant the Bordeaux “clairet” (i.e., what Bordeaux rosés are traditionally called) appellation to this wine because they thought it too darkly colored.
I hadn’t tried this particular rosé before but figured it should go well enough with the dark-meated squab confit roulade because of the predominance of merlot in the vineyards of Troplong Mondot typical of St-Emilion. I visited Château Troplong Mondot for wine-tasting in July 2006 - let’s just say it was the least eventful of all the Bdx châteaux I’ve ever visited.
In any event, this dark ripe plum and black cherry and raspberry dominant, lightly cedared and spiced rosé, fuller and more rounded than most any rosé I’ve ever had (except the 2005 Rosée de Pavie), matched very well with the squab confit roulade.
The next course was an indulgent Macadamia Nut-Crusted Foie Gras with Caramelized Banana and Chocolate Sauce…
…which was paired with:
2004 Château Cantegril - This is a Barsac. As such, it is typically leaner, lither, brighter in acid and faster to mature than the generally heavier, richer Sauternes. This particular château is owned and run by Denis and Jeanine Dubourdieu. The Dubourdieu family also owns and runs 2nd growth Château Doisy-Daëne in Barsac.
Sauternes/Barsac wines are traditionally paired in the area with foie gras. It is one of those pairings that has stood the test of time and is ubiquitous in most any legitimate fine dining restaurant in the world. Because of the chocolate sauce, however, I wanted to pair this with a Banyuls or Rasteau Vin du Naturel, but, alas, I had none in stock and couldn’t find any locally. No matter, though, the traditional pairing came through wonderfully.
The wines languidly viscous texture was infused with flavors of lemon cream, sweet, ripe cling peach, just a touch of dried apricot, slight vanilla/oak and undertones of candied lemon peel and orange rind. A good dose of balancing acidity helped brighten the sweetness, emphasized the lemon notes, cut and played with the foie’s inherent richness.
This was followed by Poached Egg with Duck Fat, Truffle Oil, Roasted Mushrooms, Mushroom Consommé and Chives. An absolute delight for me who adores all manifestations and variations of Oeuf Cocotte.
With this, I counseled no wine at all. I’ve tried many to pair with these types of egg dishes but I’ve never been convinced with the pairings - even with the traditional oeufs en meurette. Alone, the earthy roasted mushrooms and truffle oil elevated the humble poached egg while the hint of duck fat gave added dimensions of savoriness and luxury.
Next was a refreshing Green Tea and Melon Sorbet. I was happy to see this somewhat neutrally flavored sorbet. Many restaurants tend to serve aggressively flavored sorbets before the main courses which, in my experience, seriously affects the palate, and therefor, my ability to properly taste the succeeding wines, for a disturbingly long period of time.
Then came the fish course of Roasted Escolar “Sandre,” Citrus Marmalade, Salad of Sweet Corn and Mushrooms. With this perfectly cooked, juicily “meaty” cod, delicately hit with subtle touches of citrus and the corn’s natural sweetness, we continued with a second bottle of 2005 La Demoiselle de Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé.
When I was first e-mailed the menu, I thought the fish was going to be sandre, i.e., pickerel, a.k.a., pike-perch, that I ate a few times in Bordeaux and the Loire. I was actually very curious how the chef had gotten hold of some because, as far as I knew, the sandre is found only in Europe. It turned out that the chef was referring to “sandre” as a manner of cooking with indirect heat. I’d never heard of that term before for that manner of cooking, but, then, I’m no French chef.
The wine married well as I expected, the forward, ripe guava notes taking the lead, with enough push and body to stand up well to this inherently oily (but in a good way), “meaty” fish.
Then came the meat course, in the form of Certified Angus Beef Braised Short Ribs with Purée Du Pomme de Terre, Bearnaise Beignets and Thyme Natural Jus. Marinated for 24 hours before being gently braised for 8 more, the short rib chunk could literally be taken apart with a spoon - not mushy at all, mind you, its integrity was somehow maintained, albeit extremely tender.
With this we had 3 reds from Bordeaux, two from Pauillac, one from Pessac-Léognan, all decanted and breathing for over 2½ hours by the time the meat course was served.
2001 Les Forts de Latour - Though known as the 2nd wine of the venerable 1855 Classified 1st Growth, Château Latour, Les Forts is, as the Stockbroker told me, technically a separate wine in itself as the grapes generally come from vineyards (of under 12 year old vines) separate from those of the grand vin. At times, however, per the chateau’s website, the juice from certain vats of the grand vin vineyards find their way into Les Forts.
I last opened one of my bottles of these for lunch at Old Manila around 6 months ago, on 11th July 2008 to be exact. My notes then are still applicable:
Forgive me, but I can’t help but keep crowing about how I bought a case-and-a-half of this around 3½ years ago at a mere $37 per bottle. Now, unless you buy it by the case at almost double the price from Corporate Wines, the price for this begins at $130 per bottle and upwards.
…(A) legitimately full-bodied wine, expansive, broad, generous on the palate and confident in its hefty molten black fruit, cassis, leather, tobacco, cedar, touch of asphalt, hint of cigar box. Mouth-filling, smooth, very masculine, if not exceedingly complex or intellectual. At my acquisition cost, a
steal. This wine is still quite young and has yet to fully come together. I’d think 3-5 more years ageing should do nicely.
2000 Château Pontet-Canet - Tried this last around 7 months ago at . My notes then were as follows:
This was the young bruiser of the bunch, eagerly unleashing rolling muscle under a lush, ripe, almost velvety glove. Black fruit, cassis over licorice dominated with hints of red cherry, gravel and minerals in a long and strong finish. Good, sturdy bones in this. Impressive for a barely 8 year-old Pauillac, I ‘d surely like to try this again in 3 years’ time and follow its evolution over the next 20 years.
I suspect this will age nicely (it certainly appears to have the structure for it), the red cherries surfacing more in time and the wine turning subtle and sweeter in 10years from now.
Though I expected this to be too young to really be enjoyable at this point, I suppose my experience with the 2001 vintage around 2-3 years ago caused me to think this of the 2000 before I tried it. I am happy to admit that I was wrong. Were it that all my mistakes were this pleasurable.
Now, I add that though the wine had noticeably softened in the last 7 months and with material breathing time, it was still obviously the most muscular and “modern styled” Bordeaux of the bunch. In addition, the round-ripeness of the vintage was a lot more apparent in the dark fruit, there was a touch of sweet-ripeness to it.
1996 Château Haut-Bailly - The most recent notes I have on this wine are from mid-December 2007, a little over a year ago. It may not necessarily be the last time I had it, I do not always take down or post notes, much less every time I re-taste a particular wine in short intervals. In any event, those year-old notes are as follows:
It displayed decent, gravelly/graphite laced earthy black fruit with a slight touch of red fruit surfacing slightly past mid-palate. More than decent Pessac-Leognan, but, then, I am admittedly biased towards this château, considering it a consistently typical, reliable Graves that is priced below its
performance.
My opinion and fondness for Haut-Bailly’s wines have not changed, and, for this particular vintage, it has even deepened. With over a year more in bottle, and with material breathing time at that, the wine has gained a lot more depth - even contemplativeness.
It is much more open (though properly reserved) and complex at this point, displaying added tobacco, roasted herbs and warm asphalt and gravel to its darkly spiced dark fruit and cassis. Surface red berries twinkle near the surface. Excellent wine, my red of the night - yet another ringing testament to the excellence of the 1996 vintage.
Next was our “pre-dessert” course (most likely a spin off the usual cheese with fruit/fruit compote course served before dessert) of Sweet Baby Pineapple Baked in Salt and Pink Peppercorn Crust served with Ricotta and Basil.
The baby pineapple was as juicily sweet as it was tender, but still with a good cleansing hit of tartness that the salt and pink peppercorn dust played off of. The ricotta’s somewhat restrained creaminess foreshadowed dessert’s indulgence, while the basil lent a breath of freshness to the cheese.
I must have been more than a little tipsy by that time because I didn’t even notice that we opened no pairing wines for this course and our dessert - if we did, I’ve forgotten all about it. Very unusual for me. In any event, our moderately decadent Terrine of Chocolate, Glazed Fruits, Custard Sauce and Pistachios really didn’t need any wine to go with it.
Service finally done, our young chefs came out and joined us at the table…
…sharing some glasses of wine, stories of their culinary adventures and some jokes as well. Double espressos brought an end to a most enjoyable dinner.
