Dining and lodging in Piemonte, Portovenere, Florence, Bologna, Venice, Verona, and Lake Garda

Another great story about a place we really enjoyed! I have no idea when we’ll return to the region, but I know when we do we will dine there again!

Andrew, in addition to all the other great info in your posts, this is interesting to me. For our fall Milan-Bologna-Venice jaunt we would also like to avoid renting a car. I’m curious, did you use daytrip for any “touring” daytrips or just city-to-city? Trying to figure out the best way to base from Bologna for 5 or 6 days, and cover visits to places like Modena, balsamico and Parmesan producers, maybe Ferrari, and perhaps some out-of town dining (still doing basic research at this point).

Train between the cities is a breeze. It’s only for outside that you will need transport.

I really enjoyed Ferrara, a good place for an easy trip from Bologna, with excellent restaurants.

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Hello A. We used Daytrip for city to city. However, I believe if you look at and play with their website you’ll see that, after you put in your to and from locations, stops in between and tours are suggested. So, they likely can provide what you seek. That being said, there are many companies that specialize in the food (and auto factory) touring business. In 2018, we used Parmalook (https://www.parmalook.it/en/), and the day we spent with them was really terrific! For dinners out of town, you might ask your hotel for drivers; I am sure that can be easily arranged, and it is what we did for dinners and some lunches while in Piemonte.

And may I add, here’s a specific fantastic driver we now consider a friend, with a great car and who knows very, very well the Bologna (and the Veneto) region. Paolo Pasin +39 329 276 9132

Salute! [cheers.gif]

Super helpful. Thanks again.

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It’s a charming city isn’t it, especially for anyone happy to jump on a bicycle to explore (it’s pretty flat), though walking also excellent. You can also drink wine in the same enoteca that Copernicus used to drink in, and it’s a good one, not the tourist trap it might be in a more touristic city.

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Any sense of how far in advance we should be looking to book restaurants for an early November trip (Bologna, Milan, Venice)?

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Venice in November I don’t know, but 5 weeks wasn’t enough for Alle Testiere in late spring. Unless you hate fish, book online as soon as reservations open.

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I’ve heard Milan can be a place where advance booking is advisable, but that’s going to depend from place to place. Venice I don’t know, but of the places we went to in Bologna, we typically turned up without a reservation, or phoned earlier that day. That’s normal for us though, as we don’t like a set itinerary, and I usually go armed with ideas for many more restaurants than we’re likely to actually visit - but that’s good for impromptu decisions about (for example) somewhere good for a lighter meal in a particular district.

I guess if there are 1-2 restaurants that you feel are major reasons to go to that city, then that makes sense to book well in advance, as it might irritate to think you’re there but can’t go. It doesn’t feel unreasonably early to be booking for such places.

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Done! Thanks for that.

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Thanks. Yes, I think we will leave plenty of days/nights open, but there are a few specific places I’d like to make sure and try to get to (thanks largely to the excellent reports here).

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I went in Nov 2021 and the popular restaurants in Milan filled up quite quickly, particularly Ratana and Contraste. I imagine that goes double this year, with travel picking up. Would definitely look to book as early as possible

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Thanks. Grabbed Ratana. Looks like Contraste hasn’t opened November dates yet.

Others have advised about Milan, which is a city I really don’t know. I agree that you should just go ahead and try to book everywhere sooner rather than later, especially in Venice, Bologna, and Piemonte, if you’re also going there. It does seem like there’s a lot of interest in travel again, lots of pent up demand.

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Okay, one more question (for now): any experience with cooking classes in or around Bologna? Seems like there are a number of places, but hard to get a bead on what might be worthwhile.

https://www.cookitaly.com/

Andrew, thanks so much for this extensive rundown. I referred to it often on a trip to Italy that my family and I just got back from today.

We were in Florence and went to Frescobaldi - very good, and like you we would return. Also we went to Manarola by train and arrived about 11:30 and immediately headed up the hill to Cappun Magru based on your recommendation. Totally fantastic place, so charming and the food is authentic and delicious. The local anchovies are outstanding. Thank you!

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Zachary, thank you for the kind post, which made me quite happy. It’s a pleasure to learn my notes made a positive contribution to your trip!
Salute!:wine_glass:

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Even more important, the lunch at Cappun Magru fueled us for an intense hike over the hill from Manarola to Riomaggiore. Utterly rigorous and downright punishing under the bright coastal sun, the hike was also life-affirming and afforded jaw-dropping views of both towns from about 75 stories above (according to my iphone).

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Heading out soon… rough itinerary w potential food related stops, many thanks to this thread… a few last questions for the crowd: Any favorite places for a dinner in Bergamo? Anything (sights, food, etc.) from Riva del Garda down the west side of Lake Garda and on to Bergamo that warrants a stop? Anything on here you’d change out!??

  • Fri night in Florence - dinner at Coquinarius
  • Sat AM train to Cinque Terre, hike Corniglia to Monterosso, likely stop for bites at Bar Pan e Vin in Corniglia, Il Gattacio in Vernazza, and Cantina Pescatore in Monterosso before a sunset cruise, late night drinks at Enoteca Elisa
  • Sun AM torta Monterossina at Pasticceria Laura, hike out towards Levanto, train to Corniglia and hike on to Manarola, meal at Trattoria Billy or Cappun Magru, train back to Florence to hit up a wine bar late (Le Volpi e L’uva or Pitti Gola)
  • Mon explore Florence - dinner at Osteria dell’Enoteca (lots of notes on casual stops for gelato, sandwiches, markets, etc. throughout the day,
  • Tues explore Florence - dinner at Vini e Vecchi Sapori
  • Wed rent car and drive to Modena, visit Bio Reggiani parmesan then lunch and visit at Pedroni/Rubbiara then on Riva del Garda, likely dinner at Lido Palace hotel
  • Th hiking around Riva del Garda area, Ponale trail, eventually up to Rifugio Marchetti on Mount Stivo for the night
  • Fr hike back down, other hiking/lake stuff like trail from Torbole, dinner at Peter Brunel
  • Sat explore Lake Garda area then on to San Vigilio al Castello in Bergamo (pit stop before Sunday AM flight out of Milan), haven’t found a dinner destination to get excited about…

Modena without the Ferrari museum?