Just returned from a chilly visit to Paso Robles. Mostly tasted through the recent 2011 releases, but some 2010 in bottle and 2012 barrel samples as well. I attempted to take notes, but it became too challenging to keep up when interacting with our friends, tasting room staff and winemakers. I’m continuing to organize my thoughts on the subject but wanted to talk about a spectacular visit to Denner Vineyards where we met up with Assistant Winemaker Paul Hinschberger to taste through some of the 2012s in barrel and generally discussed his and Anthony’s methods in the cellar and winemaking approach.
Paul was incredibly gracious and engaging as we tasted through a number of their flagship wines along with their 2012 Mourvedre and a select 2012 Grenache as well. Throughout our questions, he explained Denner’s use of whole cluster fermentation, use of concrete tanks, oak selection and more terroir-driven, less interventionist style of winemaking. My overall impression was that Denner continues to develop a degree of maturity in their winemaking moving toward freshness, structure and character rather than ripeness and oak influence that sometimes dominates new world winemaking.
As for the particular wines, both the Dirt Worshipper and Ditch Digger showed to be very promising. Their Syrah dominated 2012 barreled Dirt Worshipper showed beautiful fresh blue and black fruits along with nuanced candied violets, pepper spice, baking spice, cedar and smoked meat elements. The 2012 barreled Ditch Digger seemed possessed by the Grenache at the time which showed beautifully with rich raspberry fruit, rosewater and baking spice elements. Both wines showed great depth, structure and acid as is typical with Anthony’s wines.
However, most promising was the 2012 Mourvedre and a project 2012 Grenache. The Mourvedre, which included 20% Counoise, had incredible warm spice aromatics with the Counoise bringing a level of freshness and expressiveness to the Mourvedre. Here there were dark, fresh dark fruit elements, violets and a mid-palate dominated by baking spices on a layer of earth spices from Mourvedre. There was tremendous depth in the mid-palate and it finished with solid acidity and firm structure. I found it thoroughly charming and a beautiful, feminine expression of Mourvedre that was rather special.
As for the “project” 2012 Grenache, it stole the show. A whole-cluster fermentation, this Grenache was collected after the free run juice but before the remaining juice was pressed by allowing the remaining juice to leach through the remaining grapes/skins overnight and slowly collect into a very small amount of juice. This remaining juice then went under malo in an egg shaped concrete tank that held under 200 gallons (approximately 78 cases). The result was a Grenache that was incredibly structured but had explosive aromatics of rose petals and rosewater. It proved to be stunning on the palate with pure crushed raspberry elements, baking spice, penetrating rosewater character and a perfect, contrasting soft green peppercorn element from the stem inclusion. Perfectly constructed, there was great acidity and rock solid structure with firm tannin in the back of the palate. The concrete tank allowed it to retain a great deal of freshness and purity of character. Paul seemed unsure of how it would be bottled and sold, but we all proved to be totally romanced by it and struggled to think about anything other than possessing it.
After tasting through barrel, Paul joined us upstairs to taste through the current release of wines in the tasting room. The 2012 Viognier had a gorgeous composition and mouthfeel along with bright acidity and honey suckle aromatics. The 2011 Dirt Worshipper and Ditch Digger seemed far more closed in contrast to the 2012s in barrel with less floral aromatics, but showed a darker more tautly structured composition. (as is to be expected by the cooler vintage). Here they showed more black raspberry, blackberry characteristics, pepper spice and overall more masculine traits. Certainly less showy than the 2010 and 2012 wines they still need some time to come together as they seem far more closed.
My impression is that 2012 could prove to be a blockbuster vintage for Paso Robles. I expect the 2011 to be underappreciated now due to the challenging vintage, but I expect that many bottles from quality producers like Denner to continue to develop into wines with character and depth down the road. That being said, the 2012 vintage is downright charming with beautiful floral and spice aromatics from vineyard to vineyard. And for those who belong to the Comus Club at Denner Vineyards, keep an eye out for any special designated Grenache in the future. You won’t be disappointed.