Great point - the label implies accuracy, but what goes on the label could be arbitrary. There is no test that can give a precise breakdown of what varieties are in a wine (correct me if I’m wrong). You have to trust the person who put the numbers on the label. Production records might give a rough estimate of what the winery used, but requiring precise measures of the final blend would be almost impossible to police and enforce. The best you could hope for are estimates in a range which is what the current laws seem to address.
To keep beating this: For precision with field blends you would have to have a certified census of the varieties in the particular vineyard at the time it was harvested. Who does that? Who pays them? Can they tell Cab franc from Cab sauvignon? What if they don’t recognize a vine…“just put down Zinfandel.”
FWIW, I know that Mike Officer has spent more money on vine identification in old vine vineyards than anyone I know — and there are a number of vines, a decent number, in the Carlisle Vineyard that have not been identifiable. I get some of those vines, so that would be a problem for me to come up with an exact percentage.
Not to mention that different varieties presumably give different yields even under the same vintage conditions, so the percentages based on vines (versus grape weight) are automatically going to be wrong.
Even the growers admit the imprecision. But as Adam mentioned, the growers (Mike Officer, Morgan Twain-Peterson is another) continue to make progress in this area.
This map of Old Hill Ranch (14 acres, 26 varieties, planted in the 1880s) shows the complexity of some of these historic vineyards and also the work that has gone into understanding them.
Well, Jim…there’s obviously a bit of slop in those Ridge percentages. Ridge has carefully gone thru all there old vnyds (LyttonEast, Geyserville, Mazzoni, Pagani)
and done a careful vine-by-vine identification, so they know the vine-count %'s pretty good. But just because you have 17% Carignane in the vnyd, that doesn’t
mean there’s 17% Carignane in the wine from that block. The yields from vine-to-vine vary considerably from yr to yr. If you’re doing a field-blend.
If the vines are planted in blocks, and you ferment each block separately, then those varietal %'s in the wine are much more accurate.
DaveGates has never related to me any vines they can’t identify, so I doubt they’re going to dismiss a GrandNoir vine as Zinfandel.
Tom