Contra Costa County Wine Heritage

In addition to the above Twitter post, Ridge Vineyards has bottled and begun selling an “Evangelho Vineyard” Red wine blend.

2018 Ridge “Evangelho Vineyard”:
(57% Carignane, 26% Mataro, 17% Zinfandel)

Winemaker Tasting Notes: Dark garnet red color. Scented cherry and blueberry fruits, seductive, layered and deep. Opulent bramble fruit entry, sensuous tannins, rich and complex. EB (9/20)”

And, to confirm that this is not a one-off bottling…

Ridge Vineyards website
“2019 Harvest Report - Monte Bello”

by Eric Baugher
December, 2019

“…Our first pick was done on August 23rd, bringing in the old vine carignane from the Evangelho vineyard in Contra Costa County.”

All “Evangelho” bottlings from Ridge Vineyards: Link

Ridge Vineyards website:

Two Shepherds is a small production winery that has offered Mourvedre wines from the “Windsor Oaks Vineyard” Russian River Valley and one of Ron Mansfield’s vineyards in Sierra Foothills/El Dorado. Now, there is a very limited amount of Mourvedre from Contra Costa County.


Two Shepherds’ website has announced that its 2016 “Old Vine” Contra Costa Mourvedre is temporarily back in stock:


"(For now) our last vintage of 100% Mourvedre bottled as a single variety. From 125 year old vines in the arid sand of Antioch, head trained and dry farmed. Only 3 barrels, 75 cases made. On the lighter side for Mourvedre, savory and bursting with red fruits.

"Wine Specs:
· Vintage: 2016
· Varietal: Mourvedre
· Acid: 6.3 g/l
· pH: 3.7
· Aging: 15 Months Neutral French oak
· Alcohol %: 12.7 "


Two Shepherds website:
https://www.twoshepherds.com/

The featured “Wine of the Week” in the SF Chronicle is Cody & Emily Rasmussen’s Desire Lines “Evangelho Vineyard” Red wine, sourced from Antioch, CA:

383bc5ef551556cef761cc14d1b3533887157df3

SF Chronicle
“Wine of the Week: 2019 Desire Lines ‘Evangelho Vineyard’ Red Wine”
by Esther Mobley
December 2, 2020


Desire Lines website:
https://www.desirelineswines.com/wines

I am late in posting this September 5, 2020, email announcement from Mr Al Turner, Secretary for the Contra Costa Wine Group:


"Once again, the Contra Costa Wine Group garnered “Club of the Year” honors! We won in 2010 and 2011 and now 2015 through 2020 for 6 in a row!

“…It should also be noted that the primary shipper of our wines to this competition, Mike Orton of the Valley Vintner garnered “Retailer of the Year” as well. I believe that Mike shipped around 80 of our entries to Manchester Center, VT to WineMaker Magazine’s headquarters.”


Contra Costa Wine Group profile on the WineMaker Magazine website:
https://winemakermag.com/location/821-contra-costa-wine-group-ccwg

The former website for CCWG is defunct.

The “Pending Plans” section of the City of Oakley’s “Current Projects” page STILL lists the Ibn Sina Community Center. It has not been approved yet for construction.

The City of Oakley previously had been canvassing for potential buyers for this parcel of land for a few years.


"APN: IBN Sina Community Center Conditional Use Permit (CUP 06-17) and Design Review (DR 08-17)

“Application by Hossam Mohamed requesting a Conditional Use Permit (CUP 06-17) and Design Review (DR 08-17) for approval to establish and construct a mixed use public assembly and residential project consisting of: 100,000 sq. ft. senior housing building consisting of 200 units; a 20,000 sq. ft. private PK-12 school with an 8,000 sq. ft. gym; a 10,000 sq. ft. mosque with an attached 10,000 sq. ft. event hall and a 3,237 sq. ft. temporary shelter for families. The project is proposed to be developed in multiple phases. **The project site is designated Commercial in the Oakley 2020 General Plan and zoned General Commercial (C). The Project is located at the NW corner of Oakley Road and Neroly Road. (APN: 051-210-025).”

mapImg.png
This land previously was listed as property of the City of Oakley. I just looked this up on the Contra Costa Assessors website. It’s currently owned by Ibn Sina Community Center.

Unofficially, it’s known as the “Oakley Road Vineyard”. [cry.gif]

Once & Future Wines website: “Oakley Road Vineyard”

I do not known exactly how many acres under vine in the immediate vicinity are publicly or privately owned at this time.

Prior to discovering the Gardiennes des Vignes “Elm Vineyard” Zinfandel, I had not heard of an “Elm Vyd” in Oakley.

Gardiennes des Vignes Winery once specialized in old-vine Napa Zinfandel and Petite Sirah wines. Now, the old website seems to be dated, and newer bottlings appear on the Odisea/Cochon winery website.


The “Elm Vineyard” probably is a proprietary designation from this producer. The site may be located on Elm Lane in Oakley, among the old-vine parcels just North of the “Oakley Road Vyd”, or it could be the “Oakley Rd Vyd” itself.

I have confirmed that the vineyard land West of Elm Ln is tended by the Gonsalves family (aka Trust of Norma Gonsalves/Sandy Lane Properties)



from the Odisea/Cochon website’s Technical Sheets page:

2016 Gardiennes des Vignes “Elm Vineyard” Zinfandel

"Vineyard: ‘Elm Vineyard’, located on Elm Lane just East of the town of Antioch in Oakley, is a dry farmed, head-pruned Zinfandel and Mourvedre vineyard planted in the late 1890’s.

“‘Elm’ benefits from the areas warm days and cool nights and the vineyards deep sandy soils and extreme low yielding vines which create Zinfandel fruit that is intensly fruited, vibrant and juicy with distinctive spice. We have been working with ‘Elm Vineyard’ for several years for Mourvedre; this is the second bottling from us of their Zinfandel. We were thrilled at the chance to once again work with a little bit of this great Old Vine fruit from this historic site.”

The winemaker for the Gardienne des Vignes “Elm Vineyard” Zinfandel is Adam Webb. Presumably some Contra Costa grapes were blended into Odisea or Cochon wines in the past.


Odisea, Cochon, & Gardienne des Vignes website:

Wine Berserkers
“Contra Costa Wine Heritage” thread
“Vineyard Directory”
February 7, 2017

The “Bridgehead Vineyard” is a Cline Cellars property that formerly served as a fruit source for Ridge Vineyard’s Mataro bottling.

“Bridgehead Vineyard” is located between the railroad tracks and Main Street, with the “Big Break Vineyard” to the northeast. It is one of the largest ancient-growth vineyards in Oakley.




According to a 2007 NY Times column, the “Bridgehead Vineyard” also is capable of bending the rules of time and space!


NY Times Blog: Diner’s Journal
“Greatness Within Reach”
by Eric Asimov
November 14, 2007

“…We then tasted four Ridge Vineyards wines from the 1990’s. The first was a rarity, a 1993 ‘Bridgehead’ Mataro. This wine comes from Mourvèdre grapes grown in an old vineyard in Contra Costa County, which was pulled out after the 1997 vintage. Mourvèdre, known as Mataro in parts of southern France and Monastrell in Spain, makes spicy, peppery red wines like the best reds from Provence. The ’93 was in a sort of autumnal phase. It still showed some spice but its fruit had evolved into a dry leaf kind of aroma that was still enjoyable, but maybe not for many more years…”.


Ridge Vineyards website
Profile 1993 “Evangelo” Mataro:

“…In the 1993 vintage, the national release comes from the ‘Bridgehead’ vineyard, a quarter-mile to the east; all the ‘Evangelo’ was set aside for this, our second ATP Mataro.”

Ridge produced two Contra Costa Mataro wines in 1993, but the winery website only provides data for the ATP “Evangelo” (sic) bottling.

· Wikipedia entry for “Schrödinger’s Cat”: link


From the old Cline Cellars website:

“The ‘Bridgehead Vineyard’, named for Bridgehead Road that runs adjacent to this treasured block, consistently produces one of our most individual and refined lots of Zinfandel. Planted by Italian immigrants well before the turn of the century, the ‘Bridgehead Vineyard’ in Oakley, California is among this country’s most historic. Ancient, 100-plus-year-old head-trained vines, dry-farming, and sandy soils combine with a unique band of cooling air from the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers that favors ‘Bridgehead Vineyard’ to create an incredible synergy of elements for expressing the unique character of this site.”


SF Gate
“Where the Heck is Oakley?”
by David Darlington
May 22, 2003

"…The transcontinental railroad hugged the southern shore of the San Joaquin River and Carquinez Strait. In order to load trains with fruit for amateur vintners in the east [during Prohibition], Napa and Sonoma growers had to take the Vallejo ferry to Contra Costa County, adding to their time and expense.

"Oakley grapes, however, grew beside the tracks, and owing to a warmer microclimate could be harvested as early as August. Hence, according to Joe Duarte - a local grape grower descended from Portuguese immigrants - ‘On Labor Day weekend, the streets of Pennsylvania ran red with Oakley wine.’

"…Cline Cellars continues to produce an array of wines from Oakley grapes, many originating in its ‘Big Break’/‘Bridgehead’ vineyard.

“Situated right on the San Joaquin River, this 140-acre property is a textbook Oakley tableau: acres of wizened, Bansai-like stumps bordered by walnuts, willows and eucalyptus, growing on what can accurately be called a beach…”.


Cline Cellars has made a vineyard-designated Zinfandel from the “Bridgehead Vineyard” every year from 1992 to 2016, with the exceptions of 1998 and 2000.

As indicated by Mr Darlington’s article, the railroad tracks have existed next to to northern Oakley vines for generations.

I can find no reference to any loss in acreage of the “Bridgehead Vineyard” - circa 1997 or otherwise.

Should any reader have insight into why a gathering of extremely knowledgeable wine folks, sitting down to taste rare and old Ridge wines, would result in such a specific, odd statement regarding the uprooting of CoCo Mourvedre vines, please chime in with your thoughts!
[help.gif]

Cline Cellars website:
https://clinecellars.com

In a recent Wine Berserkers thread, the question was posed: “Undervalued but not for long?”

The OP asked: "Not sure if everyone wants to give away their secrets / speculations, but I thought this might be useful.

“What wines do you think you should stock up on now as you think they are going to jump in price?”

Mr Dildine, a cognoscente of heritage California vineyards if ever there was one, simply stated: “Evangelho Vineyard, Contra Costa County, CA.”

My response: Link


Do YOU agree that the wines produced from the “Evangelho Vineyard” in Antioch are undervalued…for now?

Is it fated to become the last of eastern CoCo’s ancient vineyards?



Historic Vineyard Society profile: “Evangelho Vineyard”

It’s certainly been elevated by Bedrock and Dirty & Rowdy. I can tell you that the fruit prices from the next door vineyard Sandy Lane - same age, same soil - didn’t reflect a premium yet. I don’t know how much a ton at Evangelho costs (or if any is available for others), but SL was rather competitive.

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Facebook post by Mr Kevin Romick of the “José/Emerson/Lucchesi Vineyard” in Oakley, CA:

FB_IMG_1609717695277.jpg

I found a YouTube video of Mr Matt Cline of Three Wine Company touring the “Bigelow Vineyard” in Oakley, CA. Please forgive the silly vocal dub:


The Raleigh Wine Shop YouTube video:
“Three Wine Company Zinfandel”

May 10, 2020

Three Wine Company website:

*** EDIT ***


The “Bigelow Vineyard” is the same property as the “Oakley Road Vineyard”.

The old-vine site was planted in the 1880s at what is now the Northwest corner of Oakley Rd & Neroly Rd, East of Hwy 160. ~5000 Oakley Rd, Oakley, CA


from the Three Wine Company website:

"Marcus James Bigelow was a gentleman farmer and hoedown fiddler who enjoyed playing cards with friends more than farming. While he moved and worked slowly, he was reported to have been a very fast driver.

“Originally planted in the mid 1880’s, his vineyard on Neroly Road in Oakley is still producing a minuscule quantity of small berry Mataro, Carignane, and Zinfandel. This 130-year-old vineyard is dry-farmed and grown in Delhi Sand series loam soil, which is similar to beach sand. These vines produce a mere 2.5 to 3.5 tons of fruit per acre.”


Marcus James Bigelow

Bigelow Society website: “Biography”

BTW, my labels went in for approval with the text of “Contra Costa” on them an got rejected by the TTB, as Contra Costa is not an AVA. I have to put the full Contra Costa County on label. I thought it was an AVA for sure, but apparently it is not.

To the extent of my knowledge, “Contra Costa County” is permitted as a place of origin, but the official AVA remains “San Francisco Bay AVA” or Central Coast AVA, per the Alcohol, Tobacco Products and Firearms’ AVA guide.

LaMorinda received its own AVA status, but Contra Costa as a whole has not.



I do congratulate you on your upcoming old-vine Zinfandel, headaches notwithstanding! [cheers.gif]

EDIT: The LaMorinda AVA filing was drafted and submitted with aid from a Patrick Shabram. According to the TTB’s “Pending AVAs” webpage, a “Contra Costa AVA” is listed as a possible new AVA.

from Shabram’s website:

“The work of Patrick Shabram has been utilized in numerous petitions to the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) for the creation new American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) or boundary shifts to existing AVAs. Further, Patrick Shabram has submitted several petitions on behalf of growers and winemakers…”.

In 2020, several of California’s major league wine regions suffered from risks of fire and smoke taint, unfavorable weather, etc. Be on the lookout for unconventional bottlings bearing “Contra Costa” somewhere on the label.

As devastating as the year’s events were, an opportunity exists for CoCo to receive a little additional positive attention. Just as many California wineries source Carignan from Mendocino County, or Cinsault from Lodi, producers may be inclined to pad their offerings using Contra Costa fruit.


Good Times
“Santa Cruz Mountains Winemakers Grapple with Aftermath of Fire”

by Christina Waters
October 6, 2020

“…Grapes from beyond the smoke’s reach also came to the rescue for [Ryan] Beauregard, who was able to purchase Pinot Noir grapes from “Hirsch Vineyard” on the Sonoma Coast. 'I also bought fruit to make the “Lost Weekend” wine from 130-year-old vines in Antioch, plus “Zayante” and “Regan” vineyards,’ he says. As for his Zinfandel and Cabernet? ‘It’s not looking good,’ he admits…”.


In the past, I’ve been pleased to find that a specific wine included an undisclosed proportion of CoCo grapes.

In the coming years, market volatility and unpredictable weather events could increase demand for grapes from Antioch and Oakley’s centennarian vineyards.

Keep your eyes peeled.

Interesting I have picked up a couple of Sunce wines that use the San Francisco Bay AVA. The 2018 Zin is listed as from the Gary Gonsalves Vineyard and the 2018 Carignane is listed as Sandy Lane Vineyard. As you research seems to show these are two names for the same vineyard I have no idea why they are different. No mention of Contra Costa or Antioch on either label. Both are really nice wines. I hope to find more of the Zin.

The Gonsalves family owns a few different vineyards in Oakley. Sandy Lane is probably the most vineyard designated one but they do have others in the area.

That makes sense Matt. Thanks.

I just looked on the Sunce site and they make a wide range of wines from Sandy Lane. I’ve gotten grapes from there a couple times but didn’t realize they had Mission or Barbera or Alicante. I’ve only known it to have Zin, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Mataro.

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From the February 22, 2021, Post & Vine Spring Release email:


“We are pleased to announce the release of our 2020 Post & Vine Rosé of Carignane, the second vintage ever of this wine. Sourced again from the Sandy Lane Vineyard, home to gnarly, century-old vines overlooking the San Joaquin River near the town of Oakley, California. In the same family since 1904 and cared for with an experienced hand by Gary Gonsalves, the vineyard is named for the sandy loam soils that offer near perfect drainage. The cool afternoon breezes that temper the warmth of this historic wine-growing region combined with free draining soils produce small, concentrated Carignane clusters of exceptional flavor and bright natural acidity. The 2020 Post & Vine Rosé of Carignane perfectly expresses the personality of old-vine Carignane. Aromas of fresh picked strawberry, rhubarb and herbs are matched with flavors of juicy watermelon, white peach, and white grapefruit…”.


Post & Vine website:

From today’s Once & Future Wine Spring 2021 release email:


“…These 2019 wines are bright and juicy on the palate with a strong spine of acid and tannin…”.

"2019 Oakley Road Vineyard Contra Costa Mataro

"Ancient dry-farmed vines planted in the late 1800s spread down a north and east slope facing in the direction of the cooling afternoon winds and San Joaquin River, which, at one point in its past history, deposited the deep granitic sand dune-like soil where the roots of these vines have found safe haven. This is one of the few places in the world with Vinifera vines that are this old, grown on their own roots. The sand, the wind, and the ancient, own-rooted vines define the place. Mataro from this place is not the dark phenolic stuff that one expects of the grape but has a power that is much more balanced and charming.

“The 2019 Mataro has an aroma that is redolent of sweet red cherries, with hints of bay leaf and wood smoke. A dollop of vanilla and caramel from the new (25%) French oak adds roundness and depth to the bouquet. In the mouth, the wine is bright, rich, and red fruit-driven, with all the suppleness that one would expect from own-root vines in such sandy soils.”


"2019 Oakley Road Vineyard Contra Costa Zinfandel

“The 2019 Oakley Road Zinfandel has aromatics that are a harmonious mix of black raspberries and pomegranates mingling with hints of vanilla, allspice and sandalwood. The wine is full in the mouth with sweet raspberry/cherry flavors. The finish is juicy, long, and punctuated by the lovely silky tannin finish that define these Oakley own rooted sandy soil wines.”


Once and Future Wine website: