Whenever someone says that wine X is not a good substitute for wine Y, the question I ask is, how comfortable are you that if you were tasting a blind lineup of 10 X’s and 10 Y’s, you’d be able to identify which was which 100% of the time? If you can’t, it means that at least some of them are good substitutes.
2008 Domaine Dublere Savigny-Les -Beaune ‘Les Telmettes’ is quite mature in hue and in taste. Showing some beef stock and hoi sin and a gentle, soft palate. A good restaurant wine ready to go.
Agree sentiments re Beaujolais not being a direct sub for Burg, but massive price hikes of Burgs pushes us into new territory as we seek mid week values.
There’s also great value to be had with some old ‘no name’ negociant bottlings from top vineyards.
Last night we had a 1986 Rene Lecuelle Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru. It poured out looking fresh and alive. It was rich and heady with the scent of almond butter and truffles. It was dense and sappy and loaded with orchard fruit flavours. There was a drizzle of honey and a strong suggestion of minerality to the finish. One of the best whites of the year for mine.
I had a 1996 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly that was VERY "Burgundian about a year ago. I think if people pick the right ones…and age them close to 20 or more years it’s possible to use them as a substitute. It would take a lot of storage space.
Kent, the couple of early Dublere wines that I had struck me as being somewhat “easy” wines. Your 2008 Telmettes seems to be in that mold. Not bad, just easy going. I know little about the wines, however.
Jeremy, that Lucuelle must be one of gems from your sleuthing in France. Sounds like a beauty.
Kirk, for my palate, Thivin’s Cote de Brouilly is the most Burgundian Beaujolais going. It doesn’t have the brambly, up-front fruit of many, but is instead dominated by a granite core, that makes for a leaner, focused, more upright wine. The 2014 last night was no different, and it has the stuffing to age for a long time.
2010 Jean-Marc Bouley Pommard is stupendously good. Bright Pomegranate and cranberry with bags of energy and a mineral core with blossoming tannins. Very youthful and vibrant. Structurally reminds me of Roumier Chambolle. Of course now the secret is out and the '13s have taken a quantum jump in pricing.
Claude Maréchal’s wines are somewhat still under the radar. He was good friends with Henri Jayer and learnt a lot from him. Savigny-Les-Beaune is still a good value source.
2012 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières: Ripe and juicy with fleshy black cherry fruit. There’s floral nuance and plenty of mineral and earth just below the surface. The wine is rich and powerful with great structure and super length.
Great thread. Lots of ideas to check out. I’m learning a lot.
I’ve enjoyed Audoin and Pillot too. Pavelot should get a mention.
I’ll throw in a little ringer. 2003 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes GC. Wait! $60. Cheap in Switzerland too. Dark cherries, soy and red meat. 12 years old. Vintage ripe, but not roasted. WS 93, CT 92, My 93.
His Pommard villages is gorgeous. Upper upper slope from Vaumuriens.
Pommard is one of those villages with an out of date/out of touch stereotype : Pommard=foursquare and rustic.
There are many faces…
The price increases in '13 are not just because of his rising reputation. HAIL. Ouch.
2012 Jean-Marc Pillot St.-Romain La Periere - Pillot has a fine portfolio of Chassagne-Montrachet wines, both white and red. Those that follow the domaine also know that he has two whites that fly under most radar, this wine and his Montagny Les Gouresses. Both are made in small quantities from vines over 100 years old. This wine, from a high-altitude, cool site is pure and fresh. The nose is unmistakably mineral, flinty and smoky, with the citrus fruit just poking through. Frankly, I have had this bottle several times now and I am comfortable saying that it has about as much mineral on the nose as any wine that I have had. It is no surprise that the mineral aspect repeats on the palate, but there is ample fleshy, but firm, yellow and citrus fruits and good buffering acidity. I am confident that if this were thrown in a blind tasting of white Burgundy from the high-rent districts, it would hold its own and that no one would guess it to be a $30ish bottle. I believe that some would guess PYCM. It does not have the nuance and detail of a good $100 Puligny-Montrachet, but it delivers a blast of mineral Chardonnay.
Jeremy, I had never heard of Claude Marechal. I plan to run down the wines. Thanks to you and Kent for all of the good contributions here.
2007 Domaine Buisson-Charles Pommard en Chiveau is humming along nicely, without hitting any great heights. Displaying a sinewy, meaty structure with medium length. It is a nice Monday night drink that in some ways is difficult to categorise.
Kent, the only Buisson-Charles rouge that I have seen the CA distributor offer is the Volnay Santenot. Have you ever had it? I would expect the 07 of it to be a nice drink. I would like to try the Pommard and will look for it. Thank you for the note.