An excellent Monday Table this week to explore Chevalier-Montrachet. The cork gods stuck down the first and last wine of the night.
1995 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut: Some lemon and toast and mushroom, but most of all some cork taint that ruined what was going to be something special.
2002 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut: The nose has plenty of spice and a bit of toast along with some nutty aldehyde. It is rich and powerful on the palate, with a creamy feel and a finish of authority and great persistence.
2014 Philippe Colin Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : There’s a light wood derived candied note on first inspection. It breathes up nicely and has great shape and a fleshy core of white peach fruit. There’s plenty of mineral, excellent line and it is very long.
2014 Domaine Michel Niellon Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Richly fruited, with notes of ripe white peach, rockmelon and mango. It is round and full but drawn in by some smoky mineral reduction. The finish is sappy, salty and long.
2014 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte, Grand Cru : A few of us at the table thought it was quite Montrachet-esq and headed straight to Bouchard’s Cabotte as our answer. It had tinned pineapple and fresh mango fruits. It was rich, powerful, luscious and layered, but by no means heavy. It had imposing presence and a finish that drove on and on.
2014 Bouchard Père et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : A complex nose of pineapple, white peach and aniseed. It was dense and sappy in the mouth with beautifully balanced acidity. It was youthful but also providing much pleasure at this early juncture. Mineral infused white peach notes linger once the wine is swallowed.
2014 Louis Latour Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Grand Cru : Aromas of spearmint, mineral and menthol. The palate has crisp orchard fruit flavour and is rich. The finish is clean and precise.
2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Intense white peach fruit on the nose and in the mouth. There’s just a hint of caramel sneaking in. It is rich and layered and finishes with salty tang.
2014 Jerome Castagnier Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : There was some school of thought at the table that Chartron may have been the source for this Chevalier. Castagnier’s cork had done its job far better, as the Chartron was starting to oxidise. This was so fresh and unevolved. It had some smoky mineral reduction and a delightful scent of Arum lily. There was nectarine fruit and it was intense, pure and super-long. A great showing.
2014 Domaine Jean Chartron Chevalier-Montrachet Clos des Chevaliers, Grand Cru : A little advanced with some bruised apple showing on the nose. The palate is linear and structured, with plenty of underlying chalk.
2007 Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : In a good place. White peach and green apple fruits. Rich, layered and textural. Plenty of spice. Long and chewy.
2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : A little more advanced than I would have liked, showing some caramel on the nose. There is intense white peach fruit and something cool and stony lurking. It had very good length.
2017 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Huge smoky reduction lift to the aroma. There are green melon and nectarine fruits. It is pure, rich and precise, building through the palate and finishing with excellent cut. Length of flavour is imposing.
2010 Vincent Dancer Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Just a little on the advanced side with some honey notes creeping in. It is quite floral, showing plenty of lavender. There are citrus fruits along with white peach and the finish is laden with chalk.
1964 Château Caillou, Barsac: Complex aromatics of lavender, honey, caramel and vanilla. It has a core of sweet peaches and still posses lively and fresh acidity. It has lovely balance and is a delicious, mid-weight sweet wine of age.
1962 Château Doisy-Daëne, Barsac: A little TCA robbed us of what looked to be a very fine bottle. There were notes of dried flowers and nuts, along with ginger and cold tea. It still had good sweetness.