Château Rayas Vertical Dinner.

WINE TALK
1

3rd July 2008 at Sala, dinner and wine for 9 persons. My buddy, the Stockbroker, hosted a dinner featuring a vertical tasting of Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé from his vast collection (the fellow is mad I tell you, he has over 5000 bottles of premium wines kept in stashes in Manila, Singapore, California and London).

I am only a tiny bit familiar with this château, having tried a few vintages before, mainly from the Doc and other friends. I am somewhat familiar with the wines of the Rhône, but not, by any means, as conversant in them as I am in Bordeaux or Burgundy wine.

In any event, we taste what’s in the glass, don’t we?

The Menu:

  • Blue Swimmer Crab Salad with tomatoes, leaves and saffron aïoli


  • Porcini-Seared Grouper Fillet with leek and pancetta risotto


  • Roast Duck Breast with cauliflower flan, braised lentils and fine beans


  • Blue Cheese, Medjool Dates and Sala’s own “Very Fruity Bread”


  • Lemon Brûlée Tart with vanilla seed ice cream and fresh strawberries

The Wines:

Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé

1st Flight: 1992, 1994, 1996, 2002

2nd Flight: 2001, 1998, 1999, 1985

First Flight

1992 - Delicate body, sweetish hints of tea leaves developed later, old dark flowers, dried herbs (thyme is there), fine Spanish cedar. There is a discreetly pervasive suggestion of vegetative decay to whatever red berry-fruit is left that lends an air of nostalgia and whistfulness to the wine. Those looking for a big, boned, massively fruited wine had best look elsewhere. This is a barely medium-bodied at this point with cranberry notes atop a nicely rounded, darkly ripe red fruit underbelly. There is a bit of sharpness/tartness in the finish but soothed somewhat by nuances of lavender and violets.

Myself? I love old wines and, ironically, enjoy it when, due to the melding of flavors over time, I cannot find the words to break down the fruit flavors. This was my 1st Wine of the Flight, and 4th Wine of the Night.

1994 - Marginally fuller than the '92 with cranberry/raspberry over a mild ripe blackcurrant/cassis base. There are also nuances of old violets and decay in this but less pronounced than in the '92. The base fruit is not as nicely rounded. Finish a bit short.

Though this had comparatively more in body an ripeness than the '92, with fruit not nearly as tired, the '94, though competent, does not show as much character to me. It was my 4th Wine of the Flight, and 7th Wine of the Night.

1996 - Sweetish Spanish cedar over strawberry/cranberry/raspberry (in that order) with hints of dark chocolate slightly past mid-mouth and onward. Obviously more heat, heft and power than the first two wines with a better presence in the middle to boot. Masculine, confident, more accessible/user-friendly. The finish, though starts off with the confidence of the middle, puts on the brakes abruptly - abandoning the palate halfway down.

My 2nd Wine of the Flight, and 5th Wine of the Night.

2002 - The Doc and Eric R. told me that 2002 was generally supposed to be a vintage to actively avoid for Rhônes, though they liked this particular one, especially at its very affordable price (such price attributable to critics’ disappointment with the vintage in general, most likely). With that in mind, I tried my best to be objective (I always do anyway, that’s why I always prefer tasting blind).

Eucalyptus, thyme, cedar and lots of minerality in the nose. On the palate, mouth coating (but not heavy) and a bit of a medicinal theme to a comparatively (with the above) dark fruit-dominated character. There is a bit of tea leaf as well, but more discreet than in the '92. Suave mid-mouth and in the finish. I marked this my 3rd Wine of the Flight, and as my 6th Wine of the Night.

Second Flight

2001 - Whisper of iodine in the nose. Hot, racy but clean/pure fruit. great backbone. Penetrating flavors, lots of violets, dark fruit forward with cassis, slight kirsch. Full and confident. Exceptional push on the palate. My 3rd Wine of the Flight, and 3rd Wine of the Night.

1999 - Hints of crushed bugs in the nose, more of a lighter violet-infused style like the '92 but doesn’t pull it off well. Diffuse, not expressive. My 4th Wine of the Flight, and tied with 1994 as 7th Wine of the Night.

1998 - Rich, ripe, minerally nose, dried thyme, hints of rosemary and anise, a touch medicinal, marginally less weight than the 2001 but livelier and firmer structure. My 2nd Wine of the Flight and 2nd Wine of the Night.

1985 - Youthfulness of bouquet belies its age. Still full and lively on the palate. Lighter in body than the 2001 and 1998, but richer in flavor. Very clean and precise, expressive with a long, definitive finish of plum, craisins and violets. Easily the 1st Wine of the Flight, and 1st Wine of the Night.

Summary of My Own Ranking (in descending order of preference):

1985 (I believe we were pretty much unanimous in this choice)
1998
2001
1992
1996
2002
1999 and 1994

As if these were not enough, the Stockbroker rounded off the dinner with generous pours of 1986 Château Climens - Though Barsac wines are not generally as rich and full as those from neighboring Sauternes, they seem, however, to be, more exuberant, racier and have more uplifting acidity. Climens, in my experience, is marked with more heft, breadth, extraction, complexity and expansiveness than other Barsacs - certainly much more than its neighboring châteaux, Caillou (to the north) and Doisy-Daëne (to the east); it is more like Doisy-Védrines (east-southeast) in terms of ripeness and extraction, but Climens’ wines are more focused, complex and refined.

The 1986 affirms these general impressions: accented with lots of spicy, tangy botrytis, it is virtually full-bodied, expansively displaying perfumed layers of candied apricot, orange rind, crème brûlée, orange marmalade and vanilla. Pronounced middle, long finish, good balance. This is definitely the most opulent Barsac I’ve ever tried thus far.

2

Wow…great lineup…Sounds like a fantastic tasting.

I would normally agree with you regarding your comment about Barsac and Sauternes (1988 especially)…however in 1986 I found the Climens to be the complete opposite having had it side by side with the 86 Yquem.

3

I’ve had the '86 Yquem many times, having bought several in Bordeaux in '06 for myself, and have also had it several times from bottles of my friends. I’m sorry, but I fail to understand what exactly do you not agree with? I did say, and I quote:

Climens, in my experience, > is marked with more heft, breadth, extraction, complexity and expansiveness than other Barsacs > - certainly much more than its neighboring châteaux, Caillou (to the north) and Doisy-Daëne (to the east); it is more like Doisy-Védrines (east-southeast) in terms of ripeness and extraction, but Climens’ wines are more focused, complex and refined.

The 1986 affirms these general impressions> : accented with lots of spicy, tangy botrytis, it is virtually full-bodied, expansively displaying perfumed layers of candied apricot, orange rind, crème brûlée, orange marmalade and vanilla. Pronounced middle, long finish, good balance. > This is definitely the most opulent Barsac I’ve ever tried thus far> .(emphasis supplied)

That said, to my mind as well, the '86 Yquem isn’t the usual opulent style of the house - certainly not like the '67 and the '88. Truth be told, I even prefer the '97 to the '86 if I am in the mood for opulence (in which case I have the Yquem as dessert in itself - no need for anything else). Otherwise, the '86 is much more refined and has brighter balancing acid. I feel that the '86 Yquem is more similar in style to their '83.

I had a lot of the '67 Yquem at a dinner in Château Siran in June '06. It is, at present, the most opulent vintage of Yquem I’ve had. The '88 is next in line.

‘67 is the birthyear of Siran’s 5th generation Miailhe, Edouard (in the picture above at the mentioned dinner). He is a good friend, and, aside from helping out once in a while with their English marketing materials, I also act as legal counsel for the Miailhes’ Philippine business interests. It was Edouard who shared with us a few bottles of the '67 Yquem.

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Obviously I read that wrong…my apologies…it’s midnight here in CA and I need to hit the sack so forgive my silly comment.

[cheers.gif]

5

Nothing to forgive, my friend. I feel the same way as you vis-a-vis the '86 Climens and '86 Yquem.

Sleep well.

6

WOW! Thanks for sharing.

I’m surprised to see you rank the 1996 higher than the 1994 given the short finish. Could you help me understand as I have both, and the 1997 (96 and 97 bought at the Domaine) and am trying to figure out when to pop them. One bottle of each left unfortunately.

The Climens is gorgeous. One of my favorites after the 1971. For the 1986 d’Yquem, what do you predict for an aging curve. I must have a case and have yet to pop a bottle… maybe I should…

7

Crushed bugs?

Noel, I’ve lived vicariously via your tasting notes for years, but this one caught me completely by surprise. I can honestly say I have no idea what that means - nor do I want to know. :slight_smile:

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The real question is…

Blue bugs, red bugs, or black bugs??

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Sweet… fantastic write up and great photos!

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Thanks for the write up! I have sadly zero experience with Rayas but will try to remedy that one day. I have had the '86 Climens twice, however, and totally concur with your tasting note and overall commentary regarding the producer. Again, thanks.

-Michael

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Sam Sheehan brought a 2003 Rayas to a dinner we had a few months ago. although this was slaying a baby, it was my first Rayas and I was VERY impressed with the bottle. i’d love to expand my experience with these wines. Thanks for posting these notes

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Zach, I am up for some sort of expanding our experience event with Rayas, as well. We ought to figure out a way to make that happen.

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we have to do this and also work on our Montelena Line-up.

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Hi, Steve,

Nice to “see” you here as well. What can I say? “Crushed bugs” they were.

Todd,

Brown bugs, actually. Dark brown in particular.

Jeb, Michael and Zachary,

Thank you for the kind words, I am happy you enjoyed reading my notes and hope they prove helpful to you. Best of luck on your Rayas expedition. That Montelena tasting sounds great. I’ve had a few vintages of Montelena and do like their style.

Best,

N

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Hi “N”…Do you have a nickname or a name to address you by? It’s hard to call some one “N” [beg.gif]

LOVED reading your notes on the Rayas dinner. If there was ONE wine I would love to do a large vertical on, it would be Rayas. When I first started to get serious with wine, in the early 90’s, I bought 2 cases of the '89 Rayas. Then, when they raised the price a WHOLE $5, to $54.95, I dug in my heels and refused. Am I a genius or what??? [beatoff.gif]

I LOVE(D) the '89, and it still stands as my favorite wine of all time. Shared my last half case or so with some LI buddies …not sure if Bob Wood was involved at those dinners or not…but if I did, I sure wish I hadn’t wasted it on HIS palate. [dash1.gif]

I’ve also had many bottles of the '85, the '88 and a splattering of some other vintages, with the oldest being a '71. Michael Florey generously opened a '90 for my wife and I when we visited MN 5 or so years ago. My favorites, that I have had are:

'89
'90
'85
'71
'88
'86

The best of these wines are unreal. I like to describe them as “kinky”. Nothing like them, at least of wines that I have tried. I could identify them easily in any blind tasting. Although, I have not had the vintages from '91 on. Got out of my price range and have not been fortunate enough to bump into one at a wine dinner.

IF you can find it, pick up a bottle of the '03 Chateau Des Tours Vacqueyras. Should be around $30, and it is an outstanding wine for the price, and a mini Rayas. If anyone reads this and knows where it is available, I would love to know. [good.gif]

Thanks again for the notes on the Rayas.

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Hi, Steve.

Sorry, “N” is for “Noel”, my nickname, my real name is quite long so I just use my initials. Thanks for your note, and I am happy you enjoyed reading my post on the Rayas wines.

I’ve not tried the '89 Rayas, but will surely give it a try soon. I will also look around for the '03 Chateau Des Tours Vacqueyras as you recommended.

Best,

N

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Hi Noel,

I’d love to hear what you have to say about the '89. Me thinks you will be WOWED. Also, if you do find the '03 Des Tours, I’d be interested in what you think of that one too, for the price of course.

18

That is just freak’n awesome, I was nearly foaming at the mouth reading that.

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Thanks, Rich. I was fortunate to have been invited as I hardly by any red Rhône these days. I dabbled in them for close to a year, but eventually tapered off. Rhône whites suit me more than do the reds, so the whites I still buy occasionally.

Noel