Carignan Renaissance, Part Deux

WINE TALK
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This is cheating somewhat since it’s only 25% Carignan, but this is the best canned wine I’ve tried yet. 2019 “Bucking Luna” from Two Shepherds is a lightly sparkling wine made from 75% Cinsault and 25% Carignan, both organically farmed. The name of the wine was inspired by the baby miniature donkey named Luna that was born on their farm four days before the Covid shelter-in-place began. The Cinsault was being made as a Rosé and Two Shepherds winemaker William Allen found it worked better with the addition of some carbonic Carignan. The earthy Carignan component really comes through in this wine. Light (only 10.5% alcohol), delicious, and fun. I’m usually not much of a fan of sparkling reds, but this one’s a winner.

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Thanks, Ken! Does he still get Carignan from the “Trimble Vineyard” in Mendocino?

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I also haven’t had anything terribly old. In 2013-14, I drank several bottles of 2006 Domaine Gilles Troullier Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes L’Indigène. One of my all time favorite Last Bottle Wine QPRs. Gilles only made 2 vintages, but wine-searcher shows the 2007 still available - if you happen to be passing through Slovakia any time soon.

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Yes, I believe that’s where the Carignan component of this wine is from. And I think the Cinsault is from Windmill Vineyard in Yolo County - Steve Matthiasson consulted in planting this vineyard.

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Amy Butler has been featured on this thread previously. As she remains the “Queen of Carignan”, I thought it appropriate to provide an update of her work with the grape…

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Stephen McConnell’s Wine 1% Blog
[u]“Tether This”[/u]
June 25, 2019


"…Staining ruby with an abrupt edge. THE most amazeballs wet charcoal sagebrush eucalyptus 80% Cacao green tea buttered peach and sharp grimy rubber glove in the nose. Clean and bright but at the same time roiled in all the curves and cut that make a dark red wine exemplary. Soft yeast and a butterfly’s wing of alcohol grind the stony charisma of this grape into your soul, setting you up for taste-buddal-orgasms.

“Clean, brilliant and awe-inspiring over the tongue, black cherry on heroin and THE most direct and stalwart focus of structure and briar and harshness and edge and black tar and rose hips and rain on steel roofing and curry-comb and did I mention ridiculous black cherry–EVERYTHING you expect from a Carignan: NOT an edgy weird haphazard compilation of the grape’s idiosyncrasies, but a true-to-life homage to the Italian heritage of Sonoma vineyards and the absolutely STUNNING wines they can make…”.


The following blog entry details Ms Butler’s approach to crafting Carignan wines, as well as how she became transfixed with the grape variety…


Pull That Cork Blog
“Ranchero Cellars: Fearless Winemaking by Amy Butler”
by Nancy (CSW)
May 31, 2019


Ranchero Cellars homepage:
https://www.rancherocellars.com/

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October 29th is “National Carignan Day”, and the Rhône Rangers organization is coordinating a tasting online to celebrate…


October 29th - Carignan Day On Zoom With The Rhone Rangers!


"Open a bottle and toast Carignan with the Rhone Rangers! Join us for the third in our virtual tasting series, on ‘National Carignan Day’, Thursday, October 29th @ 4pm Pacific. Moderator Fred Swan will lead our panelists through a discussion on the incredible nuances and characteristics of each of their wines!

"Featured Winery Panelists:

° Bodega de Edgar - Edgar Torres
2016 Priorato (60% Carignan, 15% Garnacha, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah)

° Cline Family Cellars - Charlie Tsegeletos
2018 Ancient Vines Carignane (100% Carignane)

° Ridge Vineyards – David Gates
2018 Buchignani Ranch Carignane

° Two Shepherds – William Allen
2018 Two Shepherds Carignan

"Advance registration via Zoom required;
https://zoom.us/meeting/register/tJwsc-uqqzwsHdMe9QjtWp8Aa_itosf5DCsJ

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Wine Predator Blog
“Curious About Carignan?”
by Gwendolyn Alley
October 29, 2020


"…According to Gates in a Carignan Day webinar today, Oct. 29, 2020 led by Fred Swan, Carignan brightens acidity, brings out aromas, and pushes fruit flavors forward.

"Curious about Carignan? Or is it Carignane? Maybe Cariñena?

"Either way you spell it, this ‘bistro style wine with good tannins but not too much’ says Gates, works on its own or blended– and it should show up more often in your glass and mine!

"…With climate change, we may be seeing more Carignan grown in California because, according to Gates, it handles heat, including night time heat, well. In fact, the warmer the wether, the better the yield. It’s also a great mildew indicator– ‘the Carignan in the coal mine,’ someone joked.

"Edgar Torres of Bodega de Edgar in Paso Robles says Carignan brings color, structure, and acidity; he finds Carignan to be broody, a bully at a punk rock show, that can elbow others aside. He loves the fresh earth flavors and the aromas of petrochor.

"…2018 TerraNoble Gran Reserva Carignan
ABV 13.5%; SRP $19; sample for my ZOOM participation

"…Palate: Plum up front, cherry on the finish, super fruit forward, lots of acidity, sweet tart, big surprising overwhelming acidity. This wine needs to lay down a bit. It is young tart and vivacious. If that is your thing, than this is the wine for your. Sue recommends that it lay down for a few years to be truly enjoyed, but I really loved it!

"…2017 Longboard Carignan
tasted in the Longboard tasting room

"Vicenzo Vineyard has 90 years old Carignan! In 2017, Longboard sourced Old-Vine Carignane from Mendocino County where the Grazziano family had farmed this vineyard for 90 years and these truly ancient vines produce a great wine chock-full of cherry and plum flavors and a well-balanced structure.

"…2007 Storrs Carignane, Santa Clara County CA
purchased in their Santa Cruz tasting room long ago

"With so much development in Santa Clara County, I wondered aloud in the chat whether these grapes are still above ground, and Ridge’s David Gates assured me ‘Yes’ — he even knows where they are. Not sure who is making wine from those grapes– Carignan (no matter how you spell it) doesn’t show up on the Storrs website.

"Honestly, I didn’t expect much from this wine at 13 years old but WOW. Super enjoyable. I’d definltly buy it again if I could. I’m also a fan of their Rusty Ridge Petite Sirah.

"Color: Garnet, medium plus density

"Nose: Earthy funk, red fruit, herbs.

“Palate: Plenty of tart cherry fruit, acidity, earthy complexity…”.


Read the full piece at the Predator Wine blog: Link

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Drinking the 2015 Bedrock Vineyard Under the Mountain Carignan right now. Very good stuff.

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Every now and then, I perform a few Google searches for Carignan-based wines from unusual regions. Part of it stems from simple curiosity, part from an interest in climate change-driven replantings, and (most of all) a love for the grape itself!


Grosgrain Cellars is a Washington State winery that just released its first 100% Carignan…


"Carignan 2019

"100% Carignan
‘Old Milton Vineyard’, Walla Walla Valley

"Our first estate Carignan, from young vines at the eastern side of our winery property in Walla Walla’s Southside district.

"Light and fresh with bright, crunchy raspberry and red currant notes, as well as baking spices and freshly tilled earth.

“10 months in neutral French oak barrels
12% alc.”


Grosgrain Cellars website:

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Dirt cheap and good value is 3C, named after the grape Cariñena (i.e Carignan), from the region of Cariñena and the PDO Cariñena.

Recently I have been enjoying (French) Born to be Wine - a pun on the Steppenwolf song Born to be Wild. The pun doesn’t work for me, but they have a really nice brief video of their vineyards and people

(though the sharp eyed will spot they appear to be making red Carignan from green grapes

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Mildew remains a challenge in cultivating Carignan vines. Below is a video revealing the interventions Bedrock Wine Company implements in its “Evangehlo Vineyard”, as explained by Mr Jake Neustadt:


Bedrock Wine Company YouTube video:
“Old Vine Mildew Control”
May 5, 2020

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Saucelito Canyon is home to the oldest commercial Zinfandel vineyard in San Luis Obispo County, dating back to the 1880’s, but this Arroyo Grande Valley winery also bottles an ancient-vine Carignan:


Saucelito Canyon 2018 Carignan “Old Vines”

The website unfortunately does not include specific data about this product; according to the winery’s Instagram account, the Carignan fruit for the 2018 vintage was sourced from a 100-year-old vineyard…in Contra Costa County.
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The Wine Write blog
“The Jewel That Is Saucelito Canyon”
by Randy Smith
February , 2020

"…Other than vines that are almost one hundred forty years old, what distinguishes the wines of Saucelito Canyon? It’s that back of beyond site. The nights are cold. The soils are sandy and well drained. The pH levels are very low and atypical of most Zinfandels. The wines are prized for their balance, complexity, reasonable alcohol levels, elegance, and ability to age.

"…The Wine Write: ‘At what point did you realize the enormity of the work your father did in revitalizing this vineyard?’

"Tom (Greenaugh): 'That happened after I started working here after graduating from college…Once I started getting an appreciation for wine and took some viticulture and oenology classes, I began to understand. Getting my share of manual labor on the ranch helped, too. The work is quite daunting.

"'We are only the second family to own the property. My dad purchased it from the great-granddaughters of Henry Ditmas, who planted those Zinfandel vines in 1880. Mrs. Ditmas took over management of the ranch after they divorced, which was pretty remarkable for a woman in that day.

“‘Farming ceased on the property in the late Thirties because of labor shortages. It was being used as cattle land. It was really overgrown. When my dad bought it you could see dark clumps where the old vines are located. All the top wood of the plants was dead, but the root system was still alive. New growth was being pushed out each spring. My dad cut all the old wood back and then dug down to the root head. He then selected a shoot on each plant and trained it upward. It took him two years just to clear that field. He did it all by hand. It took quite an imagination to think that far ahead in terms of reestablishing this old vineyard’…”.


Wine Berserkers forum
“California’s Great Old Zinfandel Vineyards” thread (12/3/20); discussion about Saucelito Canyon: link


Saucelito Canyon Winery website:

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The old entries for 4488: A Ridge Blog can still be accessed via the Wayback Machine on the Internet Archives.


4488: A Ridge Blog (archived)
“Another Carignane Evangelical Goes On A Mission!”
by Christopher Watkins
February 8, 2011


“Eric Asimov & The Pour: Welcome To The Fight! -or- Carignane Wins Again!”
November 9, 2009


“A Carignane Confluence! -or- A Conversion Conversation! -or- Monroe On Carignane!”
July 13, 2009


“More On Carignane -or- Carignane, Tom Hill, And Me -or- How The Ridge Vineyards 1992 Whitten Ranch Carignane Changed Everything For Me”
June 18, 2009


“Carignane Redux -or- Don’t Blame The Varietal For The Method? -or- Finding Time For An Oft-Maligned Vine”
June 16, 2009

“…So, this is the beginning of my multi-part treatise on Carignane. The point here is that I don’t believe Carignane deserves to be maligned to the extent it often is, and I don’t believe it’s a ‘lesser’ varietal per se; it may be a more demanding varietal, with an admittedly narrower spectrum of potential (hello Pinot Noir!), and I’ll concede it may be an acquired taste for most (hello solo-varietal Cabernet Franc!), but I don’t think it should be written off. And no, I’m not necessarily putting Carignane on the same level as the two afore-mentioned varietals, I’m just interested in giving Carignane a reputational chance…”.

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The original Carignan Renaissance website has seen little activity lately. Nevertheless, a blog excerpt from Carignan aficionado Miquel Hudin recently was featured…


Carignan Renaissance
“Schistes vs Calcaire, Carignan Edition”
by Miquel Hudin
posted on January 6, 2020

"…The idea had been in the works for some time by the associations of Carignan Renaissance to work with Terroirs de Schistes to have a Carignan throw down and show the differences between wines produced from schiste or ‘slate’ soils, versus calcaire or ‘limestone’ soils. One wine from each soil was submitted by the cellars who participated and they were matched up by year. Wines had to be unoaked so as to allow full varietal and soil character to come out.

“…Wines from limestone soils appeared to be softer overall with longer finishes and anyone brought up on Burgundy being the pinnacle of winemaking (such as in the UK) would easily gravitate towards these wines a bit more. Overall the slate wines were more ready to drink, better fleshed out, and with a more sinewy structure…”.

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Original post, featuring the wine roster & tasting notes:

Miguel Hudin blog
“Schiste vs. Calcaire, Carignan Edition”
by Miquel Hudin
December 24, 2019


Terroirs de Schistes website:
http://www.terroirsdeschistes.com/

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**My interest in the Terroirs de Schistes collaboration with Carignan folks in Southern France (and beyond), led me to discover a prior event.

In 2017, Terroirs De Schistes conducted a survey of 20 red and white wines grown on schist soils from across Europe. I believe that the 2018 collaboration with red wine producers (^mentioned above^) was a step in the right direction. Southern European Carignan-dominant wines appear to reinforce arguments for the existence of terroir.**


Decanter
“Jefford on Monday: Of Schist and Schists”
by Andrew Jefford
March 17, 2017

"…A couple of weeks ago, I attended a tasting organised by ‘Terroirs de Schiste’ – a grouping of mainly French wine producers (though there are members in Priorat and the Valais too) working with distinctive schist vineyards. Faugères growers are prominent (the group’s President is Bernard Vidal of Ch la Liquière) and there are other members from Collioure, Maury, Fitou, St Chinian, Cap Corse, Savennières and Alsace. After an introduction to the subject of schist from geology Professor Jean-Claude Bousquet (who, by the way, has written an excellent introduction to the geology of Languedoc vineyards called Terroirs Viticoles: Paysage et géologie en Languedoc, available here), we then tasted ten white wines and ten red, all grown in schist zones, in an attempt to find some sort of common sensorial thread between them.

"The group verdict, based on the discussions among the attending sommeliers and growers afterwards, was that there was indeed a common thread to the white wines, but that various levels of fruit maturity and contrasting winemaking processes made it difficult to generalise about the reds. The whites were said (by various interlocutors) to have ‘freshness … attractive bitterness … elegance … aniseed or fennel notes … salty edges’; some tasters felt that their varietal notes were subdued and that there was a ‘mineral-bitter’ spectrum in place of those varietal notes.

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"The growers pointed out that schist soils, usually acid in themselves, tend to give high pH wines (and that conversely high pH limestone soils tended to give lower pH wines) — but that, despite this, schist soils seem to bring freshness. They also pointed out that vines struggle and die more quickly on schist soils than on limestone soils, hence that growers on schist need to be very attentive to their plants. The Languedoc AOC’s technical director, Jean-Philippe Granier, said that 30 years of experience suggested to him that there was a fundamental difference between wines made from vines grown on limestone and schist, and felt sure that most consumers would be able to recognise this.

"…I’m … not so sure. In this tasting, and in the few similar tastings I have done of this sort, the principal sensorial differences between the wines seem to be overwhelmingly derived from climate zone, variety and winemaking strategy.

“…The best place, in fact, to organise such a comparison would be St Chinian, an appellation with both limestone- and schist-derived soils in close proximity. Identical blends made identically in the same cellar from schist and limestone vineyards lying at the same altitude and with the same exposure in the same vintage might provide a valid comparison and enable tentative conclusions about the effects of each soil type to be drawn…”.


**I thought it was interesting that this critic suggested that a more specific set of parameters be established in order to ascertain the impact of vineyard soil type on finished wines. The most recent tasting organized by the Terroirs De Schistes succeeded in reducing variables in last year’s event - not to a level that would satisfy any scientist, but enough for many wine lovers!

Here is Mr Jefford’s opinion piece on the**


Decanter
“Jefford on Monday: Schist versus Limestone”
by Andrew Jefford
March 19, 2018


If you are fascinated by detailed maps of Carignan-growing areas in France, the Terroirs De Schistes website offers several great examples!

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The “Angeli Ranch”, now the home vineyard for Healdsburg-based Marietta Cellars, is an old planting of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignan, and other grapes.

When the winery’s lineup underwent significant changes a few years ago, an “Angeli” Zinfandel replaced what had once been a Zin/PS/Carignan blend - “Angeli Cuvee”.

The “Angeli Cuvee” wines from the late 1990’s-early 2000’s, to my recollection, were full-bodied beasts right out of the bottle. However, these rich and tannic wines would slowly open up days after popping the cork and reveal gorgeous Alexander Valley fruit and amazing depth of flavor. I imagine any surviving bottles will continue to improve in cellars for decades to come!

While Marietta initially produced blends from the “Angeli Ranch”, a few other wineries sold single-vineyard varietal wines from this property. Ravenswood and Porter Creek released “Angeli” Carignan wines for a time. Thumbprint Cellars, a tiny winery in Healdsburg, more recently offered a Carignan from (presumably) the same old-vine site.


According to the notes for Thumbprint’s 2017 “Angeli Vineyard” Carignan:

"The 107-year-old vineyard which produce these grapes has producing spectacular varietal character for many amazing winemakers for a century, plus. To my knowledge, Thumbprint Cellars is the only Single Vineyard production of these grapes. Unfortunately, after an incredible streak of sensational vintages these vines have been removed. It is a sad reality, however the multiple years of bottled wines will continue to live on.

“This 2017 vintage - marred with a long wet winter, an extremely hot growing season and devastating fires is actually showing spectacular quality for the wines Thumbprint crafted; including this offering - the last from the 107-year’old ‘Angeli Vineyard’.”

Is this information wrong? Did Thumbprint source Carignan from a different +100-year-old vineyard?

An unfamiliar winery’s website mentioned an “Angeli Vineyard”, but I don’t know whether it is a different planting or not:

Angeli Family Vineyards webpage:
Vineyards: ‘Angeli’"


Marietta Cellars bottled a 2018 “Angeli” Zinfandel, according to sales data from distribution partner VINTUS.

Supposing that Tumbprint Cellars’ information is correct, while the old-growth Zinfandel vines still exist, why would “Angeli Vineyard’s” Carignan vines be uprooted, but not the Zinfandel?


The Grapevine Magazine
“Marietta Cellars: Spinning Magic in Sonoma County”
January 5, 2021
by Nan McCreary, Sr.


History & Overview of Marietta Cellars’ “Angeli Ranch”:

Underground Wine Letter blog
“Marietta Cellars: Consistently Wonderful Red Wines At Great Prices & A Great American Success Story!”
by John Gilson
March 20, 2015

“…Geyserville, CA: Alexander Valley, Sonoma County:
· Purchased in 1990 from Viola Angeli;
· 35 acres of river land and hillside terraced vineyards;
· Zinfandel, Cabernet, Petite Sirah;
· Viola’s house is now our main office and Chris still lives on the property.”

“…Having known our dad since he was a boy, Viola Angeli sold him the ranch where our winery now sits. Viola lived in her house until she passed away 14 years later. This wine honors her.”


Can anybody clear up this mystery for me?

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Here is an online article on Chile’s VIGNO Carignan wines, with several tasting notes:


The Buyer dot Net
“Tim Atkins MW: Why VIGNO Old Vine Carignan is Best in Class”
by Peter Dean
February 14, 2018


"…In 2011 VIGNO, or Vignadores de Carignan, to give it its full name, was formed to preserve and celebrate old vine Carignan in Chile’s Maule, a region hit by the earthquake of 2010.

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"…VIGNO now numbers 16 wineries – both Davids and Goliaths – with a set of rules that could grace any DOC. The wines must be made from dry-farmed vines at least 35 years old, make up 65-70% of a blend (the other grapes also coming from the region) and then be aged two years before being released as VIGNO wines, with individual wineries’ branding reduced in significance.

"Newest member Julio Bouchon of Bouchon Family Wines whose first 100% Carignan was made in 2015 was at London’s Vagabond (Charlotte Street) with Tim Atkin MW where the wine has just been released.

"In addition to the winemaking, VIGNO is undertaking a study of over 100 producers in Maule in a zone 120 kilometres by 60 kilometres with results so far fascinating about a region that has a wide variety of soil and rock type, micro-climate, altitude and range from the sea. ‘Like Swartland with a coast’ is how [Tim] Atkin put it.

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"…We tasted 15 wines ranging in price from £13 to £55 (UK retail). Although they were all different according to variations in terroir and winemaking – picking date, blends, oak treatment – they were all extremely well made wines that would challenge anyone’s preconceptions about Carignan, especially as a single varietal wine.

"…The six VIGNO wines I would recommend trying are:

· VIGNO by Viña Roja, 2011 (FMV £55 RRP)…

"· Eclat VIGNO, 2010 (Bibendum £21 RRP)…

"· VIGNO by Bouchon 2015 (seeking distribution)…

"· VIGNO by Alcance (seeking distribution)…

"· VIGNO by Gillmore (Naked Wines, £25.99 RRP)…

"However my favourite was…………

"· VIGNO by Lapostolle (Berkmann, £22 RRP)

"This was from the cooler climat of Sauzal and the vines closest to the ocean. The fruit on the nose was more lifted and had an elegant perfume. Grapes were hand-harvested and hand de-stemmed, no crushing. Cold soak at 8C for six days, wild yeast, manual punchdown, natural malolactic, no fining or filtration.

“‘It’s hard to do this with Carignan,’ Atkin said, ‘it’s great small batch winemaking that has changed my image of Lapostolle.’”


VIGNO website:
https://www.vigno.org/

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**I just found out that the Domenichlli family’s “Cooley Ranch” is located at:

31280 Cooley Lane
Cloverdale, CA 95425**
This may be the parcel of land occupied by the “Cooley Ranch”, aka “Oat Valley Vineyard”:

Assessor’s Office Information:

Parcel Number: 115-150-022
Sonoma Zoning & Lans Use MapI am 99% certain that “Cooley Ranch” is one and the same as the “Oat Valley Vineyard”. This own-rooted, interplanted site is home to some of the oldest Carignan vines in California!!!

Google Map site for 31280 Cooley Lane

An online address search reveals that this address occupies a relatively large plot of land. The N. Cloverdale Rd fork, where Hwy 128 branches off to the West and the NE path merges into Hwy 101, marks the general location of the “Oat Valley/Cooley Ranch”. It makes sense that most of this 65-acre planting would not be old-vine Carignan.

According to my older post, Mazzocco literature states the “Stone Ranch” is found “in the Alexander Valley off Independence Lane near Highway 101.” There is a Stone Ranch at 18955 Independence Ln in Geyserville.

Both the “Cooley Ranch/Oat Valley” and the Independence Lane sites may have been known as “Stone Ranch” at different times by different people.


If anyone happens to be familiar with the older vineyards of the region, please let me know what you think!

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Hi Drew,

You are correct. Oat Valley Vineyard and Cooley Ranch are the same. Ridge referenced this on the label of their 1996 bottling from this vineyard.
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Cline Cellars probably bottles more varietally-labelled Carignan than any other domestic wine producer. Often recognized for owning/leasing the greatest acreage of historic Mourvèdre vines in California from the 1980s-2000s, the winery’s work with Carignan is also significant.

Cline’s “Ancient Vines” Contra Costa County Carignan has been a staple of the winery’s line-up for more than 3 decades. In the following ZOOM tasting event, earmarked around 21 minutes into the discussion, now-retired head winemaker Charlie Tsetlegos explains the details behind Cline’s work with this grape variety.


Cline Cellars YouTube video
“February Virtual Tasting”
March 15, 2021

Cline Cellars website: