Thanks for all the information, Roy. I have a question about this:
Do you mean that replanting was done as early as 1872/3, and that the 1875 was produced from vines only 2-3 years old? Or would own-rooted have been a better term than pre-phylloxera?
Thanks for the primer, Roy, you are very informative, as always. If you haven’t read it, Gilman’s current issue of View from the Cellar has a large focus on Madeira and, as John often does, provides a lengthy and historic backround of the production of Madeira, as well has the houses and the wines they make.
I should have been more clear about my plans to open a bottle of 1850 d’Oliveira Verdelho in advance of my birthday. The particular bottles that I own of this wine are from the family’s reserve and were bottled in the 1960’s, then recorked in 2013. My method for drinking very old Madeira at home is to pull the cork, have a glass, recork and repeat; decanting only when I notice suspended sediment in the wine as I’m about to pour it (in which event, I put the bottle aside until the sediment settles, then decant whatever remains into a smaller bottle, or decanter if to be consumed promptly). Obviously, this method doesn’t work for a dinner or other large gathering where most or all of the bottle will be consumed. I’m currently working on a bottle of 1908 d’Oliveira Boal, which I uncorked almost a year ago, is currently near half-full, and I have yet to decant. The glass I drank on Thursday was the best yet. So my plan is to open an 1850 soon, enjoy a glass now and again (recorking each time), and watch the development of the wine and decant into a smaller bottle at the time that I think optimum, saving that portion (corked) until August, when it will be shared with friends and family. Sorry for the lack of clarity about these particular bottles, bottled 50 years ago, which I believe should be treated a little differently than recent bottled wines, even those of ancient vintage.
Saúde!
Inspired by this thread, I just got a bottle of '88 d’Oliveiras Terrantez Reserva. It comes with an extra cork, which it says to use to preserve the flavor. Of course I will (why not?) but is there really any need for this?
Peter,
No. But the D’Olly “T” cork is easy to use. Essential? No.
Doug,
Just being technical as '72/'73 the years that Phylloxera first began to ravage the island’s vineyards. Of course we know that it takes some years, so technically, the disease was already in place when 1875 was harvested, but the vines were not dead, just producing less on their way to a slow death.
Mark K.,
Thanks for mentioning the Family Reserve. Of course that makes all the difference in the world. Those old bottlings are great. I’ve had the regular bottling a lot. The Family Reserve, recently and here is my TN from my website’s tasting note database:
1850 D’Oliveiras Family Reserve Verdelho Vintage Madeira -
I’ve been fortunate to have tasted this Verdelho a half dozen times when visiting the island, as it’s the oldest Madeira I’ve tasted there, with some still remaining in cask. But this is a 40-50+ year old bottling, and one I’ve never tried before. The 2nd darkest wine present at our event, full on coffee color with a greenish edge and specks of floating sediment apparent. Scintillating smoky scents explode from the glass along with notes of white peach, golden raisins, VA, figs and marzipan. A riveting profile! The palate is no slouch either, viscous and concentrated, with precision and nerve from the electric acidity possessed by this 1850. Full throttle intensity, framed by flavors of crème brûlée, dates, roasted espresso, Satsuma and a sweet hazelnut finish that carries on for minutes. In any given tasting this would be absolutely extraordinary Madeira, its only fault was in immediately following the mind-blowing 1862 Lomelino … otherwise, it was fantastic!
96 Points (2013-03-09)
Thanks, Roy! You are always so quick and ready to reply to a Port or Madeira question that I’m thinking it won’t be long before your answers come before our questions! 
I try to pay attention, but sometimes I don’t get back here often enough.
I learned this morning that: A lot of the H&H wines are already being vinified at the Justino’s facilities in Canico. Given this, I am hoping they avoid the trappings of doing the bulk wines that Justino’s produces for the restaurant trade in France and other markets. That being said, Justino’s does produce some fine vintage bottlings too.
I do not want to be a contrarian or disagree with the acknowledged expert on everything Port and Madeira, but Roy and I have debated this issue before and I believe even his FTLOP mods conceded that I have the better of this argument. Although there is evidence that the buggers reached the island in 1872 or 1873, it is impossible for them to have reached the island, destroyed all the vines, have the vineyard owners obtain North America rootstock, graft new vines, and produce fruit in sufficient time for the 1875 vintage. Hence, IMNSHO, the 1875 was produced from pre-phylloxera vines growing on pre-phylloxera root stock. If you want to argue that the grapes were grown post-phylloxera in some chronological sense on pre-phylloxera vines, that’s as far as I am willing to go.
Other than that, I have found Roy’s advice on Madeira to be excellent, including his advice on the decanting the 1922 D’Oliveras, which was better than the recommendation that Sen. D’Oliveras himself gave to me.
If you want to argue that the grapes were grown post-phylloxera in some chronological sense on pre-phylloxera vines, that’s as far as I am willing to go.
I guess I was looking at this very technically and this is exactly my thinking too. But your point is valid!
First, thanks to everyone for the awesome info, especially Roy, Eric, etc… I’ve been on a big Madeira kick lately and can’t get enough of the stuff.
As for the phylloxera date goes… Gilman notes that:
“…Just as things were returning to a period of normalcy in the wine trade on Madeira, with
oidium finally conquered, a second catastrophe struck the island, as phylloxera reached here in
1872. The Portuguese government, beset with a widespread phylloxera crisis in the vines on
mainland Portugal did not respond to calls for assistance from Madeira until 1883- when it was
already far too late to save the vines on the island- and another devastating blow was dealt to the
Madeirense wine production.”
I think the Phylloxera issue is more a matter of semantics. The wine is post-Phylloxera since it was grown and vinified after the bug reached the island, but is a wine from vines on their own roots; just as the Noval Nacional wines are post-Phylloxera but grown on their own roots and Romanee-Conti pre-1945 as well.
I learned this morning that: A lot of the H&H wines are already being vinified at the Justino’s facilities in Canico. Given this, I am hoping they avoid the trappings of doing the bulk wines that Justino’s produces for the restaurant trade in France and other markets. That being said, Justino’s does produce some fine vintage bottlings too.
I hope so too!
Just wanted to thank everyone again for their suggestions to check out RWC Historic Series. I tasted through the four bottles available in the set. Here are my notes, such as they are. I tasted them four days in a row, simply recorking after pouring out a taste. The notes are from the third day.
Posted from CellarTracker
From my limited experience, I think these wines are an excellent introduction to Madeira. It seems clear I enjoy a range of varieties, but the Bual is not my preference. I think I shall seek out some vintage examples next.
In 2 months, I’m in for set. Thanks for the notes, Pat. And damn you for your enabling.
My curiosity finally got the better of me … I purchased one of the RWC Historic Series - the Boston Bual. I had my first glass yesterday evening. Generally speaking, its moderate sweetness is a negative to me, though I loved the nutty caramel through the mid-palage and the acidity on the finish. Balanced but not necessarily in my wheelhouse. From reading the others’ notes, it seems as if the Savannah will be my next experiment with a chance to try them side by side over several weeks.
I was under the impression that Madeira can’t be open too long because it has already been intentionally oxidized. Apparently, not true?
If it has already been oxidized, what would exposure to oxygen do? Your logic is turned around. It CAN be open because it has been oxidized. As Eric notes, there will be a dif between open with or w/out cork in, but the wine won’t be ruined, as Roy points out.
I have a good friend who ends up bringing some Madeira to every dinner. He’s brought some from 1923 and the 1950s several times over the past couple years. Every time the wine seems fine. Same bottles. I’ve kept sherries open for several years and I think if anything, Madeira is even less affected by being open. My suggestion is to buy a bottle and drink it over the next year or two.
It was good advice for you to start with the RWC series, for the most part. They’re very good wines at a good price. However, I do think there are a couple of wines in the series that are atypical for their varietal. The Verdelho is the most problematic for me, in that the latest bottles show far too much sweetness. The latest Sercials I had also were not quite as dry as they could have been and were much darker than I recall them usually being. I think the Boal is the best of the grouping.
For an excellent Verdelho experience, you might try the Henriques & Henriques 10-year or 15-year wines. They’re fabulous and I think show what good Verdelho can be.
You might want to pop for a pre-1850 bottling, just to experience what pre-Phylloxera, pre-Odium wines can be like. The 1834 Barbeito Malvasia is always reliable.
Thanks for info and links.
I have searched for an assessment of the different vintage years. Like you have for Port.
I have found a list of the vintages, but no evaluation of them.
Does that exist?
What is the preferred wine glass for Madiera?