In part with an eye to wines in my cellar that I wanted to open, and also the composition of some of the wines, like the Chateau Jean Faure that I had sourced, the tasting was organized under somewhat complex lines in two flights. Each flight had some wines that were only Cab Franc and some St. Emilions, Merlot/Cab Franc blends. The first flight had a 100% Merlot from CA, to orient us around Merlot, and the second had 2 blends from CA one that was largely Cabernet Sauvignon, one Merlot. The first flight was conceived as having lighter bodied and possibly more traditional wines, the second flight heavier bodied and potentially more modern wines.
In the first flight, which had three wines that were wholly Cab Franc and one wholly Merlot, no one picked out the Merlot !!!, though this in part may be because it was older and came from a less ripe vintage (as well as that we just suck at blind tasting ï). I thought the Faure was the Merlot. The consensus WOTF was Baudry 2010 Chinon Grezeaux; second place, though not by everyone, went to the Calluna Aux Reynauds Merlot 2011.
The wines were opened approximately 75 minutes before the first flight; 90-120 before the second. None were decanted. After the tasting we followed their evolution over dinner. Ten people for ten wines. The tasting was single blind for me and everyone else was told the cepages and appellations but not the actual wines.
Flight I
1a) Raats Cabernet Franc Family Stellenbosch South, S. Africa 2017
When first tasted, this seemed âdifferent,â which led me to S. Africa. It wasnât really showing its stuff during the flight, but over dinner opened up, revealing a powerful, focused cab franc, with a distinctively long finish. As with many, not so much tobacco or green olive, but earthy and almost a milky/malted milk note: intense, driven, delicious.
2a) Tercero Aberration Cabernet Franc Santa Barbara County 2016
Very distinctive mouthfeelâsilky, as a couple of folks said. A little simpler than some of the others in its cohort and the midpalate seemed a little less dense. Still a very nice quaff, especially at the price.
3a) 2010 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grézeaux
A little barnyard in the nose on opening, which receded as the wine breathed up in the glass. Mouthfilling complex drink, with a little tobacco mixed in with red and blue fruits. Long finish in which most tannins are resolved. Holds oneâs interest throughout.
4a) Calluna Vineyards Merlot Aux Raynauds 2011
As noted, no one called this as Merlot, but I did register that it seemed to be a different sort of wine from the previous one. It had a lot of stuffing as well nice age and was the best showing of these Iâve had. Rounded in the mouth, with blue fruits, nice density in midpalate and long finish. Could be mistaken for a Bordeaux.
5a) ChĂąteau Jean-Faure St. Ămilion Grand Cru
This was a pretty wine, but quieter than I expected. It had an attractive nose and pretty blue fruit in the mouth, but seemed a little linear, while in retrospect showing a somewhat intriguing hint of graphite. Perhaps overshadowed by the former two in the flight and I never had a chance to catch up with it.
Flight II
The second flight had no obvious WOTF as did the first. The 2019 Prince of Hearts, which was surprisingly ready to drink, garnered the most votes. The 2012 Canon-La- Gaffeliére was second. I agreed these appeared to be the two drinking best at the moment in the flight.
1b) Matthiasson Earthquake Cuvee 2012/13
This is a pretty poised wine; light on its feet and pleasant to drink. Shows California inflected bordeaux varietals upfront, and smooth, mid-length finish. It was overshadowed by the wines that followed but enjoyable no doubt.
2b) Chateau Canon-La-Gaffeliére St Emilion2012
Initially this seemed a little shy, but very pure in flavor. With time, it gained complexity and depth. Interesting notes of cigar box and backing spice contrast with round blue and red fruits.
3b) Bodega Aleanna âGran Enemigoâ Gualtallary Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2016
Unfortunately, this was closed from the get go and never opened even after it was decanted when we turned to dinner. Very young purple color, but no other signs of life. I put it back in the bottle this AM and refrigerated itâmay check back in later this week.
4b) Blankiet Prince of Hearts Napa 2019 (A blend of 51% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and the rest Petit Verdot)
This stood outâa big, yet balanced blend, with smooth mouthfeel and a very long finish. Approached being over the top but never really crossed that line, maybe because Graeme MacDonald is now the winemaker. Definitely the sort of wine that would stand out in a tasting; yet it also continued to be enjoyable throughout the evening.
5b) Chateau Destieux St. Emilion 2005
Though a much-despised wine on this board, in my view, it might have nearly held its own with the Canon and the Prince were it not for a distracting bitter off note in the finish. It did start out strong with what seemed to me genuine St. Emilion character and other bottles have lacked the offending note. It does not have the purity of some of the other wines, including the Canon, but even in the dinner context it showed decently, though the harsh note remained.
