Burgundy Visit: Domaine de la Pousse d'Or

Domaine de la Pousse d’Or is a menagerie of animals. Firstly we were greeted by a charming old red setter. Next a delightful golden retriever who played the sympathy card and kept tapping my leg if I stopped patting him and then two birds in cages. The top cage housed Coco, an extraordinarily outgoing cockatoo. He was inquisitive and said ‘ca va’ on command and struck various different poses for the camera.

After bidding farewell to the animals we toured the pristine cellars of La Pousse d’Or. Patrick Landanger has poured oodles of cash, passion and commitment into this Domaine and if the 2010 wines we tasted are any indication of resultant quality then I’d have to say that the effort is reflected in the wines, they are superb (not that there was anything wrong with the wines of the Potel era, they certainly still command cellar space Chez Holmes).

The 1er Cru wines see around 30% new oak with 30% being one year old. The Grand Crus get 40-45% new oak. The barriques for the red wines have some innovative looking carafe devices sitting where the bung usually resides. These were invented by Patrick so as to top up the wine with the minimum exposure to oxygen and they can also see when the wine has completed its malolactic fermentation. These devices are named Ouiller. They don’t use them for the Puligny and may have ‘Oublier’d’ the Ouiller when it comes to white wine élevage.

2010 Santenay ‘Clos des Tavannes’ 1er Cru: Smells like ripe red berries dusted with icing sugar. In the mouth it is well fruited but has plenty of underlying structure and is nuanced with savoury things. Very smart wine.

2010 Volnay ‘En Caillerets’ 1er Cru: Vibrant and energetic with ripe berry notes threaded with a little liquorice. There’s a rich tapestry of fruit covering a mineral base and it finishes fine and long.

2010 Volnay ‘Clos l’Audignac’ 1er Cru: Floral aromas along with notes of red berries and liquorice. There’s a little wood spice showing at this early juncture as well. It is full and generous in the mouth with rocky grip.

2010 Volnay ‘Clos de la Bousse d’Or’ 1er Cru : Really quite shy on the nose, emitting the faintest whiff of earth, red currant and mineral. Very tight, very concentrated in the mouth. There is so much potential in this compact package, it will unfold but needs time.

2010 Volnay ‘Caillerets - Clos des Soixante Ouvrées’ 1er Cru : A wine of latent power, just waiting for cellar time before it eventually struts its stuff. There’s a pleasant aniseed note to the aroma and fruits are heading towards darker territory. It is complex and concentrated, with terrific underlying muscle and super length.

2010 Pommard ‘Les Jarolières’ 1er Cru: Plenty of earth and smoked meats to the aroma. In the mouth the savoury traits are mixing it up with crunchy red fruits. It is chewy but tannins are sweet and length of flavour very good.

2010 Corton ‘Clos du Roi’: This thing is a massive ball of minerally energy. It is almost too concentrated and backwards to taste but one can feel the balance and quality of the wine, it just needs time.

2010 Chambolle-Musigny: This has real sappy lift with some floral spice and red currant smells. It has some crunchy red berries in the mouth and great intensity for its level. The mouthfeel is silky and sensuous.

2010 Clos de la Roche: Deeply pitched with black cherry and blood plum fruits that are threaded with liquorice. There some sarsaparilla notes and it is rich and concentrated yet fresh and lively. The finish is seriously long and it is quite superb.

2010 Puligny-Montrachet ‘Caillerets’: White flowers and white peach aromas. It is full and rich but wonderfully linear at the same time. Lemon sherbet like acidity crackles through the orchard fruits and it is intense and long.


About time you tasted some red wines, Jeremy… just kidding. These 2010’s sound super. One of my fav Volnay domaines.

Thanks Jeremy, seems to be a lot of material/power in the reds.

glad to see them with some grand crus. Thanks for the report.

What? Clos des 60 Ouvrees isn’t grand cru? Not to mention Corton-Clos du Roi and Corton-Bressandes!

I went long on the’10s. Glad they showed well.

Now I must stay healthy for 20 years!

I see from the calendar that it is again “I wish I were Jeremy Holmes week”.

Thanks for the fine notes and clever reads. Nice vicarious rides for me. Keep 'em coming.


have been super impressed with 08 & 09 Volnay Caillerets…not that I needed any encouragement, but your notes will no doubt ensure that I opt for a wider variety of crus from 201.

201 is sold out–long ago. You might talk Rudy into selling you some.

you know what I meant!

You know what i mean…2010!!

Although the proprietary amphorae that the 201 was released in is rather fetching…amazingly though the labels are in pristine condition!

LOL, Alan, of course I knew. I do regard Caillerets as a quasi-grand cru. But I just had to rag on you, as your comment was maybe slightly… elitist?

didn’t mean it elitist–I like seeing good producers getting top vineyards. I loved seeing Dujac’s acquisitions. let’s give Bachelet more grand crus!

Went to a 2010 Pousse d’Or tasting last week.

Tried the Caillerets, 60 Ouvrees, Jarollieres, and Clos du Roi.

I was most impressed with the 60 Ouvrees and Jarollieres.

I could sense the potential of the Roi and it was pleasant, but it was not revealing its charms at this tasting.

I purchased the Ouvrees and Jarollieres based on this tasting and the Roi based on faith in its potential.

2010 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées
Popped, poured, followed over next hour. Layers of dark fruit, a satisfying and pleasing balance of fruit, acids, mineral (iron), French oak spice. Beautiful intensity, persistence, and elegance. 93+ points

2010 La Pousse d’Or Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollieres
Popped, poured, followed over next hour. Layers of red fruit, lovely balance of refreshing acids, earth, game, a touch of beef blood, and a sprinkling of French oak spice. Enjoyable now, should age well. 93 points

I had the 60 and the Corton last week. They are really not enjoyable to drink at the moment, came away disappointed I had bought some pre-arrival. Hard, tight, and unforgiving; resembling nothing of the notes I’d read. Given the competition I probably won’t buy more, and will hope these are at least drinkable with 15+ cellar years.

Nick, hmm, I tried them as well, and had a different reaction. Thought they were pretty impressive, and though fairly well structured I enjoyed them quite a lot. Ton of potential, and happy to have some. Maybe I’m just more tolerant of tannins. Also quite liked the regular Volnay Caillerets and the Jarolliéres. The Santenot was the only wine of the lineup that was a bit weak.

Thanks for the notes. My underwstanding is that Coco can be pretty mean.

Was the 201 made by Potel?

I’ll need to page back and see your other tasting posts, Jeremy, but this is great. None of those notes can be surprising to me as developments from the barrel samples of 2010s (not Pousse D’Or’s, which I didn’t get to myself, but in general) from a year and a half ago that I tried. I’m thrilled to see what translates to me as the ‘classicism’ of this vintage. Thanks for posting.


It’s definitely not the vintage character I’m objecting to here as by now I’ve had numerous 2010s from other producers, including numerous Cortons, that were indeed classic in style but yet were drinking well now (as opposed to so inscrutable I can’t detect any indication of quality or lack thereof). Maybe these would be the same with a couple hours in the decanter, but I didn’t get that feeling after giving my generous pours plenty of time in the glass. I’m hoping I’m wrong here and it can open up, and I may have to sacrifice a bottle to settle this.