My wife and I are starting to plan a visit to France this summer where we would go to Burgundy mostly with a side visit to Alsace. We are looking for hotel suggestions. I have been to Burgundy before and have stayed at Le Cep and Terre D’Or. We enjoyed both, but would like to stay in Beaune itself, so likely will not be staying at Terre D’Or. Loved it last time we were there, but would prefer being able to walk back to the hotel after dinner. We could stay at le Cep again, but if there is a cheaper place that is almost as nice, that would be of interest as we really don’t spend that much time at the hotel. Would need air conditioning, wifi and parking.
We have not been to Alsace. We likely would want to visit Trimbach, but not sure where else we would go, so thinking we should be close to Trimbach. Any thoughts?
Thanks for your help. I always enjoy these threads.
I visited Alsace in 2007 and stayed for several nights at Hotel Kanzel in Beblenheim. Quaint, small town – we walked to a wonderful dinner nearby one night where we shared a memorable Domaine Weinbach bottle of something or another. Our suite was large, had a beautiful bath, and a large terrace where we could sit overlooking the vineyards and listen to a distant church bell ring in the time. The owner of Kanzel was a gracious German woman with a large dog who gave great restaurant and touring recommendations. She insisted in having their car service take us and pick us up after dinner so that we could enjoy leisurely meals with great local wines. All of her recommendations were quite excellent. The hotel has a nice website so you can see the rooms. Breakfast was included in the price. I recall that there was a wine cellar where you could go down and pick out a wine to bring back to your suite – wine not memorable, but the idea certainly was.
If I remember correctly, Beblenheim is located a few towns south of where Trimbach is located – probably no more than a 10 or 15 minute slow drive past lovely vineyards. I had brought my bicycle with me on this trip (I usually do on all of my trips) and had some lovely rides through the vineyard roads and to some of the area towns – I remember Riquewhir (sp?) as being quite lovely and medieval as well as the other towns in the area. It was a short bike ride to this town from our hotel.
Ah yes, dinner the last night was at Le Sarment d’Or in Riquewihr. Excellent food and wines. I recall drinking a Trimbach Frederic Emile that night, among other treasures. It was a good thing that we had that car service. We purchased a small painting from one of the restaurant owner’s brother? waiter? of the surrounding mountains and vineyards that is now hanging in my bedroom. Makes me long to be back there.
I understand that Strasbourg is also quite nice, but we never made it there. I prefer to be out in the small towns and villages and near the vineyards!
Another beautiful drive was to a well known French factory where amazing French linens made by Beauville are sold. Of course I purchased some awesome linens. What a great place that was. We did drive down to Colmar, but I don’t particularly remember anything memorable about that town.
Howard, the hotel we stayed at in Alsace was the Hostellerie la Cheneaudiere, which was near Riquewehr (sp?). It was a lovely place and the restaurant had a Michelin star (this was 2003).
Howard,
If you want to visit a northern part of Alsace, I would suggest you Hôtel du Château d’Andlau, in Barr. The Hotel is very nice, and the interesting point there is that they have a very nice restaurant with a GREAT wine list. One of the best ones in Alsace, very exhaustive.
Other very nice place to eat and drink great wines: Winstub du Sommelier in Bergheim. A great place where I love the food and wine pairings. The wine list is not only about the most well-known producers, but also offers a very nice selection of producers that you will surely discover.
Florian, I’ve been to Chateau d’Andlau a few months ago. I beg to differ on it being worth the travel. The wine list is good, definitely. However, I’d say this only about the Alsace section. Champagne is quite alright too (Selosse at very good prices) but for the rest… not anywhere what it used to be. The Burgundy section is so overpriced (and really not that good neither), it’s a joke… Food is only alright. Far from great… Maybe you have been lucky and had a much better experience than I had.
We stayed at d’Andlau summer before last and really enjoyed it. There are fancier, more exclusive, more expensive places for lodging or eats, but we were very pleased with the whole package, and found it also to be very good value.
(p.s. Hi Florian! We chatted back at the other place, and had a great visit at your place with your Mom. Hope all is well!)
Michael,
Sure that the wine list is Alsace-oriented, with a good part of champagne because the owner comes from there. I like the food there, but it is not a 3 stars, so it depends to what you compare it with. I just prefered to quote places that are not so well-known, but then sure it is a question of personnal preferences.
(Henry, yes I remember you, will you be back to Alsace in the next times? And yes, all is well here, vines are growing so early this year!)
For people who live in Alsace, I guess, the fact that a wine list is Alsace-oriented may be a bad thing, but for those of us visiting from the US, it is a positive. I am not going to Alsace to drink Bordeaux, just like I am not going to Burgundy to drink California Chardonnay. Generally, when I travel to a wine region, I want to drink wines of that region when I am there - preferably neat things I cannot find outside the region.
I fully agree with you, Howard. But it’s not a bad thing to find a good Alsace wine list in Alsace even for people who live there … In fact, I love the wines from the region where I live.
However, a good wine list is not just a good wine list because it has an extensive selection of local wines. Wines from other regions should be chosen carefully and that is not quite the case at Chateau d’Andlau, imho.
I consider the wine list at La Taverne Alsacienne in Ingersheim better, for instance.
La Taverne Alsacienne is indeed an adress that you can ad to your list! The wine list is a bit more classic than at la Winstub du Sommelier if I remember well, but it is a great wine place too.
P.S: I agree Michel, a great Alsace wine list is a good thing in Alsace even for Alsace winemakers
In September 2000 we stayed at Le Clos St. Vincent which sits in the middle of Trimbach vineyards above the winery. The views were spectacular and it was wonderful to wake up in the morning, open our windows and watch the workers move up and down the hill picking grapes. The hotel appears to have been updated somewhat and is worth considering:
A second vote for Hotel Kanzel, where I’ve stayed a few times. Very nice property and centrally located if you’re driving the length of the Wine Road. An added benefit is they’ll drive you to and from local restaurants - there are several good ones in their driving range, including l’Auberge de l’Ill. While some may question whether it deserves 3 stars and may gag at the price, you will eat very well there.
Air conditioning is generally a must for me, but I honestly don’t remember if Kanzel has it. I’ve been there twice in July and don’t remember the temperature in the room being an issue. It is a legitimate reason to look elsewhere, though, because it can get warm there. That being said, if a newer property like Kanzel doesn’t have it, other older properties might not either.
Howard,
Sue and I have been a couple of times and we like Le Clos St. Vincent, literally set in the vineyards on the hill directly above Trimbach. Nice restaurant, lovely owners, pool and hot tub and the rooms are very nicely appointed. Additionally, if you press them, we got all our laundry cleaned and folded, two adults and two kids, for ~$20. We will go back.
… In fact, I love the wines from the region where I live.