BUBBLES AT WEBSTER’S - Chicago, IL (4/25/2016)
A few of us took the Monday away from the Blackhawks to drink some bubbles.
-
2011 Marc Hébrart Champagne Spécial Club 1er Cru - France, Champagne
This bottle did not show as convincingly as one I had a few months back. I found that this was a tad simplistic, with a lot of grassy elements that weren’t offensive, but weren’t entirely welcome either. Quite a fair bit of depth on the palate with a touch of sweeter fruit and a bit of that same herbaceousness. This also seemed a bit more high-toned than I remembered it being – and pales in comparison to the awesomeness of the 2008 version of this wine. (88 pts.) -
2008 José Michel & Fils Champagne Special Club - France, Champagne
A new producer for me. This is quite robust on the nose, with a fair bit of tart white fruit showing. More linear and perhaps not as complex as the Hebrart, this is very prominently showing that awesome white-hot 2008 acidity that I’ve found in so many bottles. I pick up a touch of green apple on the finish. This is very fresh and bright, and while it’s not a lightning bolt of taut acidity, there’s still a real electric hum throughout this wine. (90 pts.) -
NV Roger Pouillon et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
70% 2011, disgorged spring 2014. I tasted this without looking at the back label first, and noticed a bit of grassiness that I’ve found in quite a few 2011 champagnes. Lo and behold, this is mostly 2011 juice. That said, this is an excellent entry level Champagne. Sweet fruit, bright acids, and not too complex, with just a touch of almond on the back end as well. Again though, I found this wine a little high-toned for my taste in Champagne. (88 pts.) -
NV Roger Pouillon et Fils Champagne Brut Soléra - France, Champagne
Lot 9709. Lemony, rich, and powerful, this strikes a great balance between oxidative notes, baked apple, and bread notes on both the nose and palate. While this doesn’t have quite the same power as the Krug Grande Cuvee (and every time I’ve had this wine, I’ve always compared it to that wine), the style of the wine and a lot of the flavour profiles are very similar. There’s a certain richness here that I imagine will get better as the solera ages, or as the bottle ages too. A really convincing Champagne that is always a treat to drink. (93 pts.) -
NV Thomas Perseval Champagne “1er Cru” Rosé Extra Brut - France, Champagne
100% 2012, 50% pinot noir, 20% meunier, 30% chardonnay. Disgorged March 2015. This has a really, really funky nose, with some weird sweat note (or funk of some other sort) that doesn’t quite really blow away. The palate’s not too complex – there’s good minerality and a fair bit of tart red fruits here. The thing that juts out the most here for me is the acidity… this is like swishing razor blades in your mouth. The finish here is a bit terse, and you’re left with naught but the sour skins of cranberries. As a little bit of editorializing on the side: the more I drink these low-dosage wines, the more I dislike them. They lack the heft on the palate that I want from a wine – let’s see some gravitas. Give us malo, give us dosage! (85 pts.) -
NV Thomas Perseval Champagne “Tradition” Extra Brut - France, Champagne
100% 2012, 45% pinots noir and meunier, 10% chardonnay. Tiraged in September 2013, disgorged June 2015. The nose on this was quite compelling, with a nice mix of yellow orchard fruit as well as just a touch of florals. The palate is quite high toned, with some sappy sweet fruit, while the acidity takes a more bass role. There’s tons of freshness here, and the minerality, while there, isn’t of the chalky quality I pick up in champagne. Despite the low dosage, this is reasonably balanced. The first vintages of these wines have proven to be quite competently made, and this is a producer to keep an eye out for in the future. (88 pts.) -
2002 Movia Puro Rose Goriška Brda - Slovenia, Primorska, Goriška Brda
What is this? It’s got that odd carbonic strawberry-juice sickly sweet quality about it that you find in those partially fermented Jura wines. The palate is disjointed, with some odd mineral qualities that are completely disconnected from the sweet fruit. This wine is sweet without having any sugar at all. The best analogue I can come up with is taking a bottle of poulsard and running it through a Sodastream. To top that all off, this has some seriously unpleasant cidery, beery notes. I think the especially dumb thing about this wine is that it doesn’t even come disgorged. You have to do it yourself (thankfully, Charles took care of that for us). And all that for this? (70 pts.)