I suppose I should weigh in on this. The BC wine industry has come a long way, but in general has a long way to go. They seem to operate in a giant bubble. For years they have been protected by different levels of government to the point that there have been challenges in court, brought by other regions who are punished by countervailing duties.
This has made the whole industry very insular. Few wineries need to sell their wines in other markets. Even sales to other provinces were forbidden until recently.
What the BC Wine Institute has done a great job with is marketing the wines inside the province. Many wine drinkers in BC think that BC wines stand alone as the greatest wines in the world, knowing little of other players in the wine world. These consumers seek out Burrowing Owl, Painted Rock and Laughing Stock among others.
It is very unusual to find BC wineries with a world view. Two of which are Vieux Pin/La Stella and Terravista.
A good friend of ours Rasoul Salehi took over the management of Vieux Pin and La Stella almost 10 years ago and has really helped market the wines to the rest of the world. I would have drank the wines anyway to support a friend, but it turns out the wines are fantastic IMHO. They show very European for the most part and only the highest priced ones seem to appeal to the label drinkers.
Terravista on the other hand is owned by the couple who ran Black Hills for years and are now making two very good, well priced whites. One a Rhone blend called Figaro and the other a Spanish varietal blend called Fandango. I’m not sure these wines will ever be available outside of BC but they should be.
In terms of the rest of the industry there is nothing I would wholeheartedly recommend. The whole Okanagan Crush Pad operation is very dissapointing with their myriad of mediocre offerings.
Painted Rock, Liquidity and Laughing Stock have had some success but they seem to be chasing the high roller market. Cedar Creek has made some great wines, in fact I had a 2002 Meritage blind last night and loved it. I just haven’t had very many of their wines so can’t decide yet.
Tantalus makes fantastic Riesling, especially the Old Vines bottling but their other wines leave me cold. Culmina made an unbelievable Chardonnay from a high altitude vineyard but then tore out the vines to plant Cabernet on the advise of a geologist (and their banker probably).
It is very nice to be able to visit the wineries to taste and buy without the obvious intervention of the provincial government. It would be nicer to actually speak with the people involved with the process but that is very rare. Almost every winery big or small has sales people at the tasting counter who know very little. This is prevalent both in the Okanagan and in the VQA stores.
Just one man’s rambling opinion.