Brief Impressions - Chambers Street / LDM Tasting March 18th NYC

Great to see this tradition continuing. A very fine assortment of beverages with controlled crowds, atleast that I can attest to during the first 2 hours. Despite what seemed like an unusually strong line-up, I couldn’t quite shake a certain melancholy knowing there’d be no catching a glimpse of a Joe D tete-a-tete.

Domaine de la Pepiere. Oh yes, 2010 Gras Moutons, Clos des Briords and the 09 Clisson. So hard to go wrong here. Buy the Gros Moutons to drink now. Give the Briords a year or two, and sit on the Clisson for atleast 4 - 5.

Domaine du Closel. I’m just not a ripe Savenierres Papillon fan, no matter who makes it. Her 2010 La Jalousie is a winner. Great florality and an intriguing herbal edge. Elegant.

Francois Pinon. I was SO wrong about the 09’s based on last year’s sips. They’ve come around beautifully. I have no idea how the acidity emerged wonderfully in both the Cuvee Tradition (it’ll be called Trois Argiles in 2010, same as in France) and the Silex. I’m a buyer of both. Great intensity to the NV Non-Dose, although a year to integrate a bit more wouldn’t hurt. Unctuous and still way too young, was the 2005 Cuvee Botrytis. Francois suggested it will outlive us all.

Puzelat. I completely fell for the bracing jubilance of the 2010 Tue-Boeuf Touraine le Brin de Chevre (Menu Pineau). Nice showing for the Pinot, and the Cot needs 5 years minimum. The 2010 Telquel was off-list and my fav of the reds. Food friendly, middle weight and great purity.

Filliatrau. A second glimpse of the 09 Saumur-Champigny Grande Vignolle and I’m still pleased to own a few with no need to hurry. They’re becoming accessible now and still improving.

Baudry. I found some of the 09s a bit too ripe. The 2010 Grezeaux was scrumptious. Pretty, bright and almost Burg-like. Irresistible.

Brun. Mr. Brun was still in transit but his wines showed up fine. The 2010 Blanc showed a touch round (especially after Puzelat!). I fell for the 2010 Brouilly - crisp, bright, accessible, elegant and classic. Honorable mention to the ‘10 Morgon with its terroir driven meatiness.

Descombes. The ‘10 Regnie was winning me over until the slight horsiness triggered memories of some of his son’s farm-y efforts. The ‘10 Morgon showed great typicity and fine balance.

Desvignes. The ‘10 Morgon La Voute St. Vincent is lovely, fruit forward and ready. The ‘10 Javernieres needs 5 years. It’s big, rich, tannic and will some day completely fool a Burghead in a blind line-up.

Coudert. The ‘10’s are home run to my palate. Plain or Tardive, makes no difference. Drink the regular Fleurie any time, but give the Tardive atleast 3 - 4 years.

Texier. Eric claimed to be spend his time in the vineyard and talked about doing almost nothing to make the wine. Well, nobody made an outrageous 2010 Saint-Joseph La Croix VV which was probably my wine of the tasting. Amazing purity, clean and beautiful reddish fruit. Really enjoyed the affordable CdR and even more, the 2009 CdR Seguret VV…which could use a year or two.

Radikon. Very consistent. All 05s - Oslavje, Ribolla Gialla and Jakot. I’m slowly accepting the oddity of the style. The Jakot (Tokay) was probably my fav.

Bera. Ms. Bera was quite charming and she won me over with the purity of the ‘09 Barbera D’Asti Ronco Malo and the pretty, easygoing ‘10 Moscato D’Asti Canelli.

Montesecondo. The ‘10 Rossa was a very nice quaffer and the 09 Chianti Classico was bright, modestly rich, grippy and satisfying.

Guttarollo. I unfairly turned off my focus here, having too much chewy wine in the cellar. These are very acceptable fuller Primtivos.

Renardat-Fache. Elie Renardat said to drink the 2011 Bugey Cerdon within a year. Consider it done.

RT

Thanks for the notes Richard. I agree w/ you re: the '09 Pinons. A Cuvee Tradition from the other night was lovely & the remaining 1/3 bottle was even better 3 days later.

I’m also glad to hear about the '10 Beajolais- I’m excited about these wines, especially the Coudert & Desvignes…

Thanks for the notes Richard. I wasn’t able to attend, but glad to see the usual suspects showed so well.

Just a bit surprised you found the 09 Baudrys so ripe - I’ve gone through a number of bottles of Grezeaux and Croix Boissee in particular since release; the wines have all been wonderful and I expect they’ll age superbly. Looks like I will have to get a bunch of 2010 Grezeaux as well. (If the 2010 rosé they released last summer is any indication of the quality of the lineup, that might be another stellar vintage.)

And agree, the 2010 Texier St. Joseph is quite amazing. (The few 2010 Northern Rhones I’ve had so far have all been very promising… I fear that’s a vintage that could take a toll on my credit card.)

Richard -

thanks for the notes. great to hear the Puzelat’s showed well…they’re quickly rising on my list of “must-buys” from the Loire. Reading that the 2010 Grezeaux is “burgundy like” literally made my mouth water. Can’t wait to give them a try.

agree with your thoughts on the Couderts. both wines from 2010 are brilliant and should age well!

Richard, please help me follow this. Are you saying that the Baumard Clos du Papillon is too ripe for your palate, while the Closel Jalousie is not? TIA.

LDM [scratch.gif]

Louis Dressner McKenna

Louis/Dressner. Don’t remember what the “M” stands for.

Obviously you have a reading comprehension problem Lewis. rolleyes

I had the good fortune to taste at Huet and then mosey over to Pinon ( December 2010 ).
there was no question about great balance in the Pinon wines (acidity wonderful), with the Pinon outshining the huet sec and demi-sec.
Pinon is a must buy this vintage.

I wasn’t able to go, but appreciate the notes here. Puzelat and Pinon looks good.

Yes. And the Jalousie is not always in my strike zone either. I dug the '10 Closel Jalousie yesterday.

RT

Many people seem to think so… [wow.gif]

Todd, I’ve been loving '10 Bojos. More than one vigneron described the vintage as classic.

Salil, there’s an appealing focus to the '10 Grezeaux, not that I’d turn down a taste of the 09. There were plenty of wines, yet I wish Pierre Breton had been pouring too…based on a recent '10 Breton Bourgeuil Galichets. If the usual suspects achieved what Mr. Texier has with his 2010 St. Joe, there’ll undoubtedly be future CC pain.

Matt, The Puzelat brothers continue to step it up.

RT

Many?? Maybe you do have a problem… neener

I had it two weeks ago but it was much better yesterday.

Richard, do keep an eye out for the 2010 Breton Bourgueil Franc de Pied. Have gone through a few bottles already since release and I’m a big fan (probably my favourite vintage of that wine yet).

A few more impressions:


Francois Pinon - I skipped this table as I had all the wines a week earlier at a Pinon themed dinner. The main point I want to make is this: DO NOT make my mistake and drink them all early because they taste so good young. Yes, they are wonderful now but they age amazingly. The '05 Botrytis is a bit shut down compared to release but the '97 is glorious now and will be for years to come. Give the '05 some more time, please. I couldn’t stop drinking my '02 Novembres 7 years ago and having had a chance to taste what they’re turning into I regret it. I hope to save a few of this years Tradition to drink during my retirement.

Puzelat - The Brin de Chevre is always my favorite of their whites and this year was no exception. Wonderful stuff. The Pinot Noir puts many village level Burgundies to shame. I also liked the Cot very much. I did not care for the Telquel which had a strong lactic note (nb, I am very sensitive to diacetyl notes).

Baudry - I’m not usually a Grange fan but I liked this one. Some friends who are Grange fans said they loved it. My favorite was the Grezeaux - just beautiful in this vintage. The Croix Boissee was of at least equal quality but will require more time.

Descombes - my favorite of the Beaujolais producers pouring (closely followed by Coudert). Will probably buy the 2010 Descombes Regnie and Morgon and both Coudert bottlings but will definitely buy the 2010 Descombes Morgon VV.

Texier - what a fantastic lineup of wines. From the $15 Cotes du Rhone (for which my note read YUM!) to the 2010 Saint-Joseph (for which my note read Wow!) it was one winner after another. I even liked the (100%?) grenache Seguret.

Radikon - loved the Oslavje and Jakot, less taken with the Ribolla Gialla. The Oslavje won on round, haunting, seductive beauty and the Jakot won on brilliant balanced intensity. The RG was good but for me outclassed by the other two.

Montesecondo - I’ve never tried this producer’s wines before but I’m so happy that has changed. The Rosso was eminently drinkable but the Chianti was exactly what I look for. A friend commented that it’s the only Chianti he’s bought for several years. I berated him for continually opening old Barolo for me and keeping the good stuff for himself.

Guttarollo - My favorite was the amphora raised bottling (the same friend’s favorite was the one raised in stainless steel).

Sigh. Next year I plan my trips back to NYC around this.

The downside is that if you are as crowd-averse as I am it is a somewhat unpleasant environment to taste in. I sort of miss the days when almost no one knew how good these wines are while simultaneously being happy they are getting the recognition they deserve.

Jay, I thought the crowds were worse last year. Seems like the crowd builds as the tasting wears on. I had a chance to chat with every winemaker. The 08 Cercle Rouge tasting was a madhouse IMHO.

Interesting read on the Telquel, completely missed the diacetyl. I’ll be keeping an eye open when I get some.

RT