Bouchard Le Montrachet Anyone?

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Not an easy question to answer since it’s hard to compare like with like; and I think the answer would depend on the year: in this era of warmer, riper vintages the argument could be made that Montrachet doesn’t necessarily enjoy the advantage it did when the climate was more marginal; and certainly Montrachet’s dominant status is much more obvious in a vintage such as 2013 than a vintage such as 2018. But honestly at the end of the day, it’s really a matter of taste: Montrachet is only “better” if we agree that the more texture, flesh and amplitude, the better, and that is not a given. Indeed, ironically, Montrachet is pretty much the stylistic polar opposite of everything that is fashionable in white Burgundy today. In a sense, like another three of Curnonsky’s four other “greatest white wines of France” (Château Grillet, Château Chalon, Château d’Yquem), it’s a wine that’s out of time: Montrachet makes much more sense in the context of 19th-century tastes and gastronomy than it does in the contemporary low-fat, dairy-free world.

Funny you say this. It was the first thing I thought about when I started to read this thread. I have never had an ounce of any of these vineyards so I have no experience. I follow someone on Instagram who goes by the handle PulignyFirst. He did a Monty vs. Chevy tasting and, well, Chevy came out of on top. If I recall, it wasn’t even close.

The Bouchard Montrachet is the most consistently predictable experience you can get from Montrachet IMHO. I’m not saying that the other high end Montrachet bottlings aren’t consistent in a year over year comparison - just more predictable and predictably dependable :slight_smile:. LoL - it’s all subjective. Anyways or myself, the Bouchard version comes across as more “classic” and less flamboyant than many of the other more singular versions. Expectations of the dependability of this wine really does lead to a trend where many who are into the dependability of a wine experience = increased LOVE over the time frame that collectors are working with. I can tell you that the Bouchard version when compared to others in the same vintage will be the one that will change more and become more interesting when left in a glass to sample at the end of a 6hr wine dinner. My experience only… Lovely stuff year in and year out!

I agree, when a Montrachet is really on it’s superior to any Chevalier … (however never had d’Auvenay) … except you prefer minerality and obvious acidity to fullness, roundness, complexity, length and substance.
I made several tastings with more than 24 of M.s, Chevys and the other 3 included … the wines that lingered in the memory were the Montys … even sometimes from less well known producers …
but price is definitely an issue … and there are great Chevys, too.

I kind of reckon the lines have become blurred between Montrachet and Chevalier, as we see warmer and earlier harvests. A bit like Barbaresco and Barolo. A lot easier to see the differences 20-30 years ago.

Great Montrachet is about layers of flavour, volume, richness and exoticism. Great Chevalier for me should be more mineral, linear and compact.

That’s a great summary. That’s exactly what I’m looking for in each. So while the Chevy’s can be excellent and I collect all I can get my hands on, there’s something special about a (classic) Monty.

I would be happy to drink Bouchard’s Montrachet, Cabotte or Chevalier anytime. All are fabulous wines.

I think Bouchard makes great classic Montrachet and if tasted blind, it will perform well. DRC Montrachet is a unique, not necessarily better but bigger and richer, often with a hint of botrytis based on my limited experiences.

This is extremely insightful and very well put.

Apropos of the “low-fat” world, as we slowly cycle off that unfortunate mistaken path, I wonder if wine taste will gradually shift as well, or if the change in taste, combined with the change in climate, has set us on a path of no return in that way.

Having attended a few bacchanal dinners in 2020 where DRC, Ramonet, Leflaive, Jadot and Bouchard GCs were poured (obviously before things shut down here in CA), I can attest that Bouchard Montrachet more than holds its own. Whether “punching up” versus the more esteemed Le Montrachet producers, or “punching down” versus the “big boy” Chevalier, Batard, and Bienvenue bottlings (no Criots were poured), I wouldn’t hesitate to pay reasonable retail for Bouchard Montrachet.

The 2014 DRC Monty is on a plane of its own though, both from a price and an experiential level.

Ashamed to say I missed that one. My pinnacle white was, and remains(!), the DRC 2002 on release - a gushing waterfall of sensations in the mouth as opposed to rich and oily - unfortunately, we all know how that went…

Prieur and Jadot have made some great juice in recent years, the latter from the Thenard holdings. Drouhin-Laguiche is often a more subtle wine, and Bouchard is a high attaining Mr/Ms Consistent, one that I’d ‘happily’ pay the money for - it’s also one of the few that you can ‘buy off the shelf’ in Beaune, perhaps also with the Drouhin wine from their cellar.

In 2005, I had a great Bouchard Montrachet 1995, still very young (19/20).

As you say, Kevin, the DRC Montrachet is unique, very opulent, with botrytis. I tasted an astonishing DRC Montrachet 2002 at the domain in 2005, with Raphaël Coche-Dury (19,5/20). Hence, one of the few best wines in my life …

Other opulent, balanced, pure, persistant and confidential gems :
DRC Bâtard-Montrachet 2000 in 2009 (18,5/20)
DRC Bâtard-Montrachet 1995 in 2011 (18,5/20)
DRC Bâtard-Montrachet 2007 in 2015 (18,5/20)

To be fair in comparing Chevalier to Montrachet or Le Montrachet the differences are less perceptible at 10 years of age, begin to separate with Montrachet having more of everything at 15 and at 20 years when most Chevalier has lost some vim and vigor Montrachet is at its bests and is the far superior beverage.

That being said, Ramonet versus DRC Montrachet is another subject all together with Ramonet Outshining DRC at 15-20, but at 25-30 years of age, it’s DRC in a landslide.

Of course a view provisos like pre-mox and in a vintage like 2009 with supreme ripeness in the new world climate, I reserve the right to an addendum to the above as these vintages age.

As Jon states with certainty to which I wholeheartedly agree, Bouchard makes outstanding Montrachet and continues to deliver a super duper product. And, Jadot is back!

Actually the negociants are all back with a vengeance not unlike the shift away from them to the growers in the mid 80’s. Remoissenet, Drouhin, Bouchard, Jadot, Faiveley , and Bichot are all killing it with whites!, *though they maintain lots of their own vineyards and farm or have much input to many they lease or have meteyage or long term contracts with.