Greetings all,
This is my first post here, and thanks for having me. Nice to see the development of another platform for wine lovers to express themselves.
I would like to share my notes on the 2008 vintage in Bordeaux, largely re-tasted during Vinexpo this past June, just a couple of months after the en primeur tastings in the spring. Some of my earlier commentary , and notes, notably for the white Graves and Sauternes, you can find on my website: http://www.connectionstowine.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, which, I confess, is not kept as up to date as it should be…
Briefly, among the firsts, Lafite is really something special, as I got to taste it at the chateau just before a dinner there during Vinexpo. But Haut Brion is also a candidate for ‘first among the firsts’… Then there is a highly precise Latour and a supremely elegant Mouton. Only Margaux left me scratching my head a bit.
Anyway, the vintage hopefully will be overshadowed by the 2009, if soon declared (yet another) vintage of the century. And if that happens under better economic conditions… I would hope that 2008 stays relatively modest in price (in terms of Bordeaux pricing) so that we consumers can reap the rewards.
A few of these notes are from en primeur, but the vast majority come from re-tasting in June, including the UGCB at Vinexpo and individual chateaux. I did not get to taste alas Leoville Las Cases, Ducru Beaucaillou and Montrose, but heard marvelous things particularly about the first two. Cos I only tried en primeur and found it rather overbearing, but that was en primeur, and it certainly impressed most critics, from Jancis to the Pope. I am sure it is terrific.
I highlight in red the ones that have, as the French say, a coup de coeur, wines that were particularly interesting to me, also within their price categories.
Bordeaux 2008
High quality and wallet friendly, confirmed in June
In Bordeaux for Vinexpo, the massive bi-annual wine fair in June, I re-tasted the 2008 vintage. The initial impression from the en primeur tastings in April of a ripe vintage with smooth tannins, structure, power and focus from the better terroirs was confirmed. 2008 seems very good and sometimes even great for certain wines. The vintage may be over-hyped, coming off a mediocre and vastly overpriced 2007. Positive and in some cases lofty Robert Parker scores have led to market buzz, despite the financial crisis. But 2008 is no 2005, qualitatively speaking – mainly because of climate realities leading up to and during the harvest. And for some estates, particurlarly on the Right Bank, I am not convinced it is that much better than 2006, either. But the 2008 vintage offers high quality and may be - still - the best futures buying opportunity in a while: less expensive than 2007, 2006 and 2005. A savvy consumer who buys the best of these wines will find quality at a relatively low price. Just be sure to purchase from a reliable source.
FIRST GROWTHS
CHATEAU LATOUR: Tasted en primeur. The estate was not happy with its Merlots – including the old Merlots – which were largely used for the second wine, Les Forts de Latour (which contained a whopping 31.5 percent Merlot). Subsequently Latour in 2008 has a particularly high concentration of Cabernet (harvest ending on 19 October): 94 percent. Not seen since the 2004 vintage, which this resembles, but seems more focused, more precise. In fact, it reminded me more of the 2002, and winemaking director Frederic Engerer agreed. While the second wine showed finely-combed tannins, it was both creamier and simpler. Latour showed violet and white flower aromas, with a very linear and precise palate, certainly rich as well, but with extremely fine tannins and a disciplined power: a good sign for the barrel aging period. 93-96
CHATEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD: Tasted en primeur. Also a very substantial proportion of Cabernet, with 83 percent and the rest Merlot. The nose is floral with underlying black currant, preceding a very silky palate. I agree with critic Jancis Robinson, who noted that this is almost Lafite-like. Indeed a very elegant and “feminine” showing, but with solid Pauillac flavor intensity, albeit very smooth. There is also a very pure expression to the fruit. A special Mouton, in line with a series of fine efforts from winemaking director Philippe Dhalluin. 93-95
CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Tasted at the estate before dinner the opening night of Vinexpo, the wine has gained power and concentration since early April, while increasing a polished elegance, marked by pure, deep notes of cassis and cedar on both the nose and the palate. Certainly the 83% Cabernet Sauvignon is asserting itself over the 13% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Balancing power with grace (12.7 percent alcohol), the wine gave off a bold and somewhat foreboding impression, but with a long, impressively echoing finish. Large-scaled Lafite, which seems headed towards greatness. 93-96
Chateau Margaux: Tasted during en primeur week. A discrete nose, somewhat floral and elegant – what is to be expected from this majestic estate. The 87% Cabernet Sauvignon was just almost too discrete on the palate though I liked the cassis and the floral aspects. Nonetheless, it reminded me just a bit of the more small-scaled 2007, which we again tasted. That is to say, while very good, 2008 was not a great vintage for Margaux, and certainly not as impressive as all the other First Growths I tasted. We then also tasted the 2006, which was superior in quality to both the 2008 and 2007. 91-94
CHATEAU HAUT BRION: Tasted at the château during Vinexpo. Only 35 percent made it into the first wine, with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. The nose shows ultra fine espresso and cassis, and the palate is haut couture like leather, with tobacco leaf, cedar and black fruits. A powerful yet subtle, enveloping feel, somewhat tight, but apparently more open than it was en primeur. Most impressive was its layered texture on the palate, promising volume and complexity: a great showing from Haut Brion, deftly handling its 13.7% alcohol. Very impressive and perhaps the top First Growth, but very close… 93-96+
Pauillac / This was the perhaps the most successful Medoc appellation , showing power and finesse from many estates.
CHATEAU PICHON BARON: Tasted again in late June, this 2008 fulfills its promise as the best of the non first growth Pauillacs. It shows substance and energy, with subtle chocolate and vivid blackberry and cherry aromas, also cassis and cherry, in a full-bodied, finely structured palate, which is focused yet rich, with good vibrancy, and a pleasing creaminess. A low 52 percent of the total crop went into the first wine, after two green harvests (beginning July and end August), with average yields of about 36 hectoliters per hectare. The blend includes 71 percent Cabernet aging in 80 percent new oak, which seemed again very well integrated. If the futures price remains interesting, this is a strong buy recommendation as it flirts with First Growth quality. 92-95
Chateau Pichon Comtesse: Nose is discrete yet complex in the late June tasting, which showed an improved performance from April. Violet, licorice and wintergreen mingle with blackberry (29% Merlot in the mix) on the nose, and the palate shows good sap and freshness, also displaying impressive Pauillac power and a smoother finish than en primeur. But it lacks a bit of the verve and substance of the Baron. 90-93+
Chateau Pontet Canet: Very fine, fresh nose of black cassis fruit, with good floral lift. The palate is rich yet brooding, showing much strength and underlying power. This seems to be quite special. One has to applaud Alfred Tesseron’s steady output here since the mid 90s, although the prices have headed far North in later vintages. 92-94
Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste: Tasted only en primeur, this showed cassis on the nose and palate. A good tannic grain and palate feel, it showed harmonious precision with a lingering finish. In better vintages, GPL is like a mini Latour and this is no exception. Very fine job. 91-94
Chateau Haut Batailley: Only tasted en primeur, this shows fine fruit and a silky aspect. Quite refreshing, light and elegant and certainly a pleasing drink. 88-91
Chateau Lynch Bages: Since tasted en primeur, when it was more full bodied, robust and suave, the wine seems to have tightened up in June, retaining pure black cherry and cassis aromas with black licorice and hints of toast , but more tannic and just harder to evaluate but evidently showing promise. 91-93+
Chateau Batailley: Showing a rather serious and full, mineral-like nose. Licorice and ripe cassis on the palate, which is especially nicely structured and rich enough. Imposing without being overpowering. Impressive job – and likely a great QPR. Par for the course for this up and coming estate. 90-93
Chateau Clerc Milon: More supple and elegant compared to the above, showing red and black fruit on the nose and palate. It just seems to lacks focus and precision – as again experienced in June. 88-92
CHATEAU PIBRAN: Tasted only en primeur, this has to be among the best cru bourgeois, showing a lovely nose, with good concentration on the palate. There is ripe fruit here and clear step up from other cru bourgeois tasted. This may be a great QPR. 89-91+
St Julien / I did not taste either Ducru Beaucaillou or Leoville Las Cases, but what I did taste again in June confirmed that St. Julien was consistent, if not the most exciting appellation in 2008.
Chateau Beychevelle: Good brambly fruit, with agreeable red and black fruits on the palate and nose. A bit lacking in focus, but tasty juice. 88-90+
Chateau Branaire Ducru: Great focus on the nose and palate, red cranberry and cassis. Some floral elements with just a hint of dark chocolate. Very nice job here. 90-92+
Chateau Gruaud Larose: Very rich and full, even showing some early hints of meatiness. I like the volume and texture although it is a tad rustic. Still, the chutzpah is there and this should prove fun to drink. 88-92
Chateau Lagrange: Suave and elegant. Very drinkable, supple, but not complex or particularly nuanced. 88-90
CHATEAU LANGOA BARTON: Truly lovely nose and palate. The best in a long while from this estate with an impressive aromatic display of deep cassis and plum, and cohesive and caressing on the palate. 91-93+
Chateau Leoville Barton: Much better performance than en primeur, with typical depth, substance and breed. Layers of flavor, showing cassis and cedar but just a baby, with prodigious tannin and structure making this a brooding Barton. But it displays more elegance than most of the Margaux I tasted… 91-94
Chateau Leoville Poyferre: Nice dark color. Greater extract than the Barton, with lots of concentration and depth, although not as poised or as polished as its neighbor. Slightly New World St Julien. 89-92+
Chateau Talbot: The nose shows off red fruit and just hints of stalk, but with an easy-going and juicy palate lacking depth and power but making up for this in charm. 88-91
Margaux / Margaux seems the least consistent of the Medoc appellations.
Chateau Palmer: Certain flower elements on the nose as per usual, but not quite as exuberant compared to better vintages. There is a good concentration on the palate (13.5% alcohol). Good acidity, good freshness, too. I like the quality of the tannin here. Some ripe plum and cinnamon on the nose and palate. Broad full bodied feel (51% Merlot and 41% Cabernet, 8% Petit Verdot). Very nice – and perhaps better than Chateau Margaux in 2008. 91-94+
Alter Ego de Palmer – Probably candidate for best second wine in 2008. Soft aromas of strawberry and light oak tones: 52% Merlot and 48% Cabernet. Very elegant and refreshing aspects. There is a pleasing ripe plum aspect, as the wine is dominated by the Merlot at this stage. Very fine. 88-92
Chateau Brane Cantenac: Nice pine forest aromas. Fresh medium bodied palate, poised with an overall impression of Margaux elegance, showing flower-like perfume. Lacks a bit of the precision and especially the depth of better vintages – certainly the 2006 shows more – but quite successful for the appellation. Barrel aging will likely bring this score to the higher end: Brane constitutes quality and value for 2008. 90-93
Chateau Cantenac Brown: The nose is showing some oak and red fruit but a harder and more extracted feel on the palate, lacking the elegance one expects from Margaux. 86-89
Chateau Dauzac: Much nicer than the above. An under-the-radar château that in recent years, even in lesser vintages, impresses. There is good sap and verve on the palate. Not particularly complex, but a fine drink. 88-91+
Chateau Desmirail: There is something rather anonymous about this wine. While not bad, and certainly fresh, it lacks depth and nuance. 85-88
Chateau Du Tertre: This tasting confirmed my en primeur notes. A better performance than Giscours, also owned by Eric and Louise Albada Jelgersma. This wine exhibits lovely spice on the nose and a solid if slightly dilute palate, but certainly honorable within the context of the vintage for Margaux. 88-91
Chateau Ferriere: Only 2 percent Cabernet Franc but it shows off much mint freshness, and the palate retains a mentholated aspect. Good texture and a silky elegant feel, if not that concentrated. Fine effort. 89-92
Chateau Giscours: I tend to prefer the elegance and silk of Giscours compared with the rich spice of Du Tertre, but not this year. The nose is somewhat unfocused, certainly showing fine floral elements, but lacking precision – also on the palate, which does exude strawberry and generally red fruit, but lacks punch, and focus. 88-90
Chateau Lascombes: Not sure why this estate keeps using so much new oak even in more difficult vintages. The 80 percent is noticeable here again, diminishing potential grace. At this stage, it smells and tastes more like its individual elements rather than incorporating them. Disjointed. But one expects it to come together in bottle, especially because the palate shows substance and concentration. 88-91
Chateau Marquis de Terme: This shows a bit more cohesiveness than the above. Not particularly elegant – even four square – but at least the elements complement one another better and there is a decent floral aspect on the finish, however light. 87-89
Chateau Prieuré Lichine: Good and solid, another rather four square Margaux with medium body, showing red and black fruit, but just a bit monolithic. Where is the elegance? 86-88+
Chateau Rauzan Gassies: A bit green here, but the palate is better, showing substance and underlying power, although – again – lacking elegance. 85-88
Chateau Rauzan Segla: Usually a top performer, in 2008 this has a rather muted nose followed by much more substance than its less illustrious neighbor. Brooding at this stage, but more raw than elegant. In the two+ months since en primeur, it has even shut down a bit. 90-92?
Chateau Siran: Very good for the vintage, shows bright fruit and an easy approach somewhat similar to the Dauzac though not as successful. 88-90
Graves and Pessac Leognan / The reds show smooth tannins, good ripeness and an easy palate feel. In some cases, the whites rival the great 2007 vintage.
REDS
Château de Chantegrive: Suave menthol and fruit aromas, with a fine palate texture infused with black fruit, delivered in a smooth manner, showing balance and energy. Fine Graves and a bargain. 88-91+
Château Ferrande: Also fine in June, with the same raspberry red fruit freshness detected en primeur. Palate is medium bodied but some choppiness and excess warmth on the finish detract a bit 87-90.
Château Rahoul: Good green tobacco leaf nose, fine sap on the palate, showing balance and overall real pleasure. Nice job. 88-91+
Château Bouscaut: Good delineation, some tonic austerity, perhaps just a tad dry but fine overall. 88-90
CHATEAU CARBONNIEUX: Very nice cherry aroma, then red cassis, with good sap on the palate, more intense than, say, Rahoul and a real classy feel to it, showing breed. Bravo! 91-93
Domaine de Chevalier: Red, black fruit and menthol, with a smooth, elegant medium body, although a tad short on the finish. Consistent notes en primeur, but give it time to fill out in barrel. 89-92
Château de Fieuzal: Dark cassis jam, and rich, yet also balanced with lifting notes of green tobacco. Some excessive extraction noted on the tannic finish but this packs flavor. 89-92
Château de France: Wintergreen freshness, with a good attack but drying on the finish and rustic. 87-89
CHATEAU HAUT BAILLY: Sheer perfumed nose: a noticeable step up from all the wines tasted beforehand. The palate displays clear ripe, red fruit flavors, tobacco leaf and iodine freshness with a pleasing tannic edge. Crunchy red fruit on the finish, still baby-like tight but much promise, similar to the 2004 vintage, only riper and bolder. 92-95
Château Haut Bergey: The jury is out on this one. In April, it seemed fresher with floral notes infused with deep black fruit aromas and flavors. It showed sap on the palate, and concentration without evident extraction – just the right tannic qualities for the long term, despite a slightly drying finish. But in June, I got more evident extraction of dryer, even harder tannins. Thick and rich on one level, but slightly gum aching on another. Will the ample concentration hold up against the tannins in the long run? 88-92?
Château La Louviere: Fresh and substantial in a mid-bodied manner, with chocolate notes characteristic of this estate in a ripe vintage. A real pleasure, soft and smooth. A good bargain. 90-92
Château Larrivet Haut Brion: A whiff of evident woody toast, but there is decent fruit and concentration. Still, I feel this is just a bit superficial overall, lacking in structure and length. 87-90
Château Latour Martillac: Has closed down since en primeur when it showed ripe plum aromas and flavors. The palate shows fine tannic grain and a pleasingly warm feel with good freshness. 90-92+
CHATEAU LES CARMES HAUT BRION: What lovely perfume of brambly fruit, floral elements and tobacco, rivaling Haut Bailly’s aromatic complexity. The palate is harder though, with fruit and freshness but just a bit of dry tannin. Still the nose and the concentration show promise for the future. 91-94+
Château Malartic Lagraviere: Forest strawberry on the nose, with wintergreen, and the palate is mid-weight with good concentration, showing a nice tannic edge that is a good sign for barrel aging. 90-93
Château Olivier: Good fruit driven nose with hints of oak derived toast. Palate is cohesive, shows good energy. Despite a slightly drying finish, this is rather enjoyable. 90-92
Château Pape Clement: Very dark fruit and tar on the nose – just a hint of asphalt – with a brooding licorice like palate infused with blackberry, black cherry and some cinnamon and chocolate elements. Structure, depth and ample concentration, but it has closed down just a bit since April. A bigger, “modern” style of Graves. Very successful in that sense. 92-94+
Château Picque Caillou: Freshness and fruit on the nose, but is there just a hint of stalk? The palate is mid weight, again fresh and quite smooth with soft fruit, but seems to lack focus. 87-89
Château Smith Haut Lafitte: Jammy fruit but not overdone. The nose and nicely structured palate show blackberry and cassis fruit, with smooth, quality-grained tannins. Not as refined as Haut Bailly, but showing perhaps more ample rounded body at this baby stage. Fine job. 91-93+
RIGHT BANK
Many observers praise the strength of the Right Bank in 2008, particularly Pomerol. I would agree that Pomerol has shown very well – both en primeur and in June. Given the late picking season seeming to favor Cabernet, this may seem counter-intuitive. But Edouard Moueix of the Moueix family in Libourne, owners of several high profile Pomerol estates from Petrus to Latour à Pomerol explains the vintage as “lucky” because of weather changes that made the harvest work well for Merlot. First off, a late budbreak because of colder Spring weather meant that the Merlots would not have been ready for picking in early September, as normal. July was largely sunny after an initial week of rain, so the grapes thickened their skins to prepare them for the cooler than usual August. Then came the Indian Summer, with more luck. On 3 October, Moueix told me, a thin layer of botrytis attacked the grape skins and most people in Pomerol began “losing their hair” thinking all was lost. But a frost the next morning basically killed off the mold. The result? Relatively high natural alcohols from slow maturation into the picking – as late as 12 October for Petrus, known for its precocious harvests – but low yields also due to poor grape sets. A recipe for success, comparable to 2006, but perhaps not quite as good. The consumer difference? Less expensive prices at this stage.
Pomerol / In tasting a re-tasting many Pomerol 2008s, I was convinced of this appellation’s regularity in quality, more so than in St. Emilion.
Château Latour à Pomerol: Tasted at Château Hosanna in June, this was more closed than in the Spring, its evident volume tightening up but displaying creeping aromas of crushed cherry and showing off a very nice palate texture, with good tannic grain. I am sure this will be fine once in bottle. 90-93+
Château Providence: This is also tighter than in the spring. But shows deep blackberry, plum and spice, with a broad-based, almost modern styled texture albeit with fine lift on the finish. 91-93
CHATEAU LA FLEUR PETRUS: Very pleasing black cherry and ripe plum aromas and flavors but firm on the palate, although shows a nuanced minerality and layers of flavor that brings this up a notch compared to the previous wines tasted, with a rich finish en plus. 92-94+
CHATEAU HOSANNA: Very bright nose, precise and pure fruit expressions with lovely floral notes. A hint of fresh, almost mint-flavored dark chocolate which I had also detected en primeur. A very smooth texture and a fine tannic grain. This one is very special indeed, showing better than it did in April. 92-95
Château Trotanoy: This has also filled out since en primeur and is certainly the most dense outside Petrus. Shows off milk chocolate, ripe plum, damson and an iodine freshness combined with a silky texture. Not as deep as the 2005 or the 2006 for that matter, but very pleasing and layered. 92-95
Château Certan de May: Only en primeur notes, when it showed a flower-driven nose and a fine rather opulent body, similar in texture to La Fleur Pétrus, showing also very good structure. 91-94
Château Pétrus: Also only tasted en primeur. The nose is a very subtle mixture of black cherry, fresh red plum and spice, not that expressive, preceding a body that reflects the layering complexity and depth one expects from this terroir – indeed very full-bodied but not powerful. I think this is a very good Pétrus, but does not quite reach the heights of the 2006, nor especially the magical, already mythical 2005. 93-96
June Tasting at La Conseillante of Pomerol Séduction (a grouping of several Pomerol estates)
Château Beauregard: Shows off violets on the nose, quite floral, combined with ripe plum. The palate is richly medium bodied, with an overall feel of elegance and minerality on the finish. A very fine effort. 90-92
Château Clinet: Very ripe aromas of black cherry and cherry pit and even a custard aspect. I get at first a large whiff of new oak which should integrate (hopefully). The palate is broad and full-bodied , rather modern, but without being heavy. It is just slightly disjointed at this stage, with a bit of a drying finish, but it should be OK at bottling. 91-94
Clos du Clochet: Crushed strawberry nose, showing nice fruit as well on the palate with freshness. Showing also pleasing chocolate notes, the palate seems just a bit angular and even hard on the finish, so time in barrel will hopefully smoothen the edges. 88-91
Château La Conseillante: A very fresh nose with floral notes, white pepper and some hints of fine milk chocolate. The palate is juicy, even sumptuous, with good sap and concentration, also giving off a Cabernet Franc-driven mint freshness (86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc). The 90% new oak is well integrated – a very fine effort from this remarkable estate, but, again, I do not get the same depth as in 2006, nor the peerless balance and sheer poetry of the 2005! 92-95
CHATEAU GAZIN: One of the best Gazins I have ever tasted, near to the quality of the 2005 and matching the 2000 and 2001. Fine aromatic complexity, an almost Black Forest cake-like mixture of dark chocolate and cherry with a smooth and juicy palate, though not quite as juicy as La Conseillante. Fine corpulence accentuated by a tonic finish which shows good non-drying austerity, indicating a need for barrel age. 91-94+
Château Mazeyres: Now this is a find. Not an expensive Pomerol and one which delivers the goods with freshness and red fruit focus, rather candied. Showing nice palate texture, perhaps lacking great concentration but making up for this in fresh fruitiness and a smooth finish. 89-92+
Château Petit Village: The nose is discrete and the palate shows good ripe red fruit, although it is a bit hollow on the mid palate and drying on the finish. Not the best performance from this estate, the site of much recent renovation and work to raise quality. 88-90
Château Rouget: Intriguing notes of vanilla bean, flowers, hints of cola along with dark fruit. The palate is ripe and “straight up”, no angles, showing pleasing dark chocolate and toasty oak on the finish. Rouget is getting better and better and the 2008 is no exception. 90-92+
Château Vieux Maillet: This is user-friendly and probably inexpensive Pomerol from the owners of Château de Lussac and Franc Mayne in St. Emilion. Not very complex, but pleasingly drinkable, with chocolate and licorice aromas and flavors, a mentholated freshness and a smooth texture. 88-91+
VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN: Alexandre Thienpont calls 2008 a good but not great vintage for his estate, although I think he is being modest. At 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, the wine reflects a late harvest, with fine acidity. The aromas show fleur de vigne, plum, black cherry – rather complex. The palate is fresh, even candied, fuller than it was in the spring. Although we then tasted the 2006 and 2005 to illustrate what a “great vintage” means, he stressed, the 2008 is something special. 92-95
St Emilion / St. Emilion varied especially according to the quality of the terroir. Most of the 15 classified premiers grands crus were splendid, with a more mixed bag for the 50+ classified grand crus, all generally marked by good sap and smooth tannins.
Premiers Grands Crus
I had initially tasted most of these estates blind in April. Those which I re-evaluated in June confirmed the success of these terroirs.
Château Angelus: Very rich and powerful, showing blackberry and custard, with cinnamon notes. A typically hedonistic Angelus in a good vintage which reminds me a lot of the 2004… but not reaching the heights of say 1998or 2005. Similar notes to when tasted blind in April. 92-94
Château Beau Sejour Becot: Lovely bright nose of dark red fruit with hints of oak-derived toast. Good palate, not the most complex, but refined and fulsome. Similar notes to when tasted blind in April. 91-93
Château Beauséjour Duffau Lagarrosse: Nose is just a bit closed showing hints of extraction and black cherry. Palate is fine, not too extracted, with a tonic aspect that is refreshing. Cherry pit fruit is subtle and there is warmth without the alcohol being too present on the finish. Fine. 89-92+
Château Bélair-Monange: Initial forest freshness on the nose precedes pleasing red fruit on the palate, supple and not very concentrated but balanced, refined and rather rich. Good palate presence though not a very long finish. Far better tasting in June, seems to have gained in volume. This is the same château which had been called Bélair, but recently purchased from Pascal Delbeck by the Moueix family which changed the name. Moueix is changing various practices: he will pick later, he no longer uses the pigeage method that Delbeck employed, and he will work the soils to drive roots further down. 89-92+
Château Canon: A softer nose than Angelus , showing cherry and plum, and the palate shows fine balance between freshness and sweet fruit. It seemed to just lack a bit of concentration on the mid palate, but overall quite good, with a refreshing finish. Somewhat closed compared to the blind April tasting. 90-93
Chateau Cheval Blanc: Tasted only en primeur, with a discrete nose. Not quite integrated oak, at this stage and the palate shows power that seems a bit compacted. There is a lovely dark chocolate aspect. With time, the nose improves, showing lovely layers of aromas, repeated on the palate and echoed on the finish. But all is not in place, showing a disjointed aspect. Not the best Cheval Blanc en primeur, but has potential… 89-94
Château Clos Fourtet: Good chocolate notes with toast and plum on the nose precede a rich palate, showing fine concentration, some tannic austerity on the finish, but showing more tonic than dry, as it did in April. Very fine and will be lovely after barrel aging. 92-94
CHATEAU FIGEAC: This is a real winner in 2008. Tasted blind and non blind in April, with consistent notes in June: lovely notes in fact, of mint and white flower and cassis. The palate is somewhat closed, but there is sap and concentration, with fine tannic grain, with a pleasingly perfumed aspect. A wine to buy without hesitation. 93-95+
Château La Gaffelière: Not showing as well as it did en primeur, with just ripe plum on the nose and hints of vanilla bean and spice. Smooth overall on the palate, but is it just a wee bit too polite? Decent if somewhat drying finish. 89-91+
Château Pavie: Very dark color. Oak-derived notes. Gums attacked, but not as aggressive as in the past; this one is OK, but certainly a modern style – indicating rather that with time the elements here may well come together. Later, a pleasing cinnamon aspect, with very ripe plum. Some extraction on the finish. Largely depends on your stylistic preferences… 89-94
Château Pavie Macquin: Very deep and modern aspect, with jammy, dark fruits on the nose and palate. I like the hedonism of the rich plum jam, and there is backbone to this wine as well, but the alcohol just shows through a bit too much for my taste leading to drying worries in the long run… 89-93
Château Troplong Mondot: More balanced, with a cooler aspect compared to Pavie Macquin. I get a better sense of the combination of fruit, tannin and alcohol, although there is also some heat on the finish – with Merlots reaching almost 15 degrees. 90-93+
CHATEAU TROTTEVIEILLE: Very balanced and elegant showing black cherry and cherry pit fruit with focus. The palate is highlighted by a mint freshness infused with light blackberry liqueur. A fine effort from this estate – confirming the positive blind tasting in April – which has been improving markedly in the last few years: this could constitute bargain. 91-94
Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classés 2008
At the level of the classés, I was struck by some very high quality wines, and by… some less than stellar examples. Here is where I think 2006 easily rivals 2008, but, again, the price is looking (sometimes far) better in 2008.
Balestard La Tonnelle / Very rich and deep nose and the palate is well knit but loose: friendly with plum and cherry. Fine. 88-91+
Cap de Mourlin / Pine fresh aromas, quite warm on the palate, with a stewed cherry aspect, good tannin though oak in evidence and just slightly hot finish. 86-89
Petit Faurie de Souchard / The nose is muted red fruits, with austerity and just a hint of green on the palate. Showing some bright fruit, but a bit prickly. 84-87
Bergat / Slight stalk elements on the nose mingling with ripe plum, but the palate shows pleasant fruit and freshness with a thirst quenching quality. 86-88
Berliquet: Very chipper, ripe strawberry aspect, with a pleasant juicy palate, although the finish is drying. 88-91
Bellefort Belcier / Warm and smooth, black fruit on the nose and palate which perhaps lacks some focus. Overall good plum, ripe aspect, certainly pleasing, but a tad hot on the finish. 88-90
Cadet Piola / Very pleasing mint aromas and the palate is fresh, showing some milk chocolate and cherry, with a smooth texture. Not the richest St Emilion but nicely structured. 88-90
Chauvin / Nice cherry and plum notes, and the palate is corpulent. Shows some hints of over extraction, but not drying. 88-91+
Clos de l’Oratoire / Toasted cherry nose. The palate is slightly monolithic, but deep dark cherry seeping through the oak derived notes. 87-90
Canon La Gaffeliere / Improved since en primeur, showing subtle spice on the nose and palate, which is warm, with strawberry and plum. Not quite the structure of the 2006, however, also lacking the verve of finer vintages, but with good potential with barrel aging. 89-91
CORBIN / Lovely nose, very fresh. Shows fine lift on the palate: not a warm palate, but a giving palate, with fine tannins. Ripe, red fruit and toasty, well incorporated oak-derived notes on the finish. This is one to seek out! 90-93
Clos des Jacobins / A slightly jammy nose but a tasty and nicely textured palate, good overall with some cherry. A supple drink. 87-90
Clos St Martin / Rather nuanced nose. Palate is warm and spicy, blackberry fruit with refreshing notes of dill. Good. 87-90
GRAND MAYNE: Plum and chocolate notes on the nose and palate, rich yet also showing fine structure but not quite as deep as in better vintages. Showing full-bodied pleasure and a rich finish: a wine to drink and enjoy without much afterthought. 90-92+
Grandes Murailles / Subtle, more closed nose. Palate is more concentrated, full bodied, showing plum jam aspects and a bit of heat on the finish. 87-90
Laroze / Lactic nose, hints of oak, palate is fine with medium body and some drying tannins. 85-88+
Larcis Ducasse / Pure nose of black cherry and blackberry. A dark fruit cocktail, somewhat jammy, but fine with well integrated oak. Vague heat on the finish, but overall a big style with lots of class. 89-93
La Tour Figeac / Good freshness on the nose though a hint of green on the palate. Seems to lack stuffing as well, but overall not bad. 86-88
Laniote / Nail polish and a bit funky. Faulty bottle.
La Couspaude / Very dark, modern color. Nose not showing much here. Palate is thick and warm. Cherry and plum notes. Some oak derived spice. Hint of drying tannin that could be worrisome. 86-90
La Dominique / A much better palate. Seems to have more nuance, not at all overripe. Just ripe enough with freshness, though not as successful as Corbin. 88-91+
L’Arrosée / Fine, cranberry jam on the nose and palate, but something understated about this wine that seems almost too polite for its own good. A good, uncomplicated drink. 86-89
La Clotte / Extracted but not heady. Actually rather seductive in a big and brawny sort of way. A wine for modernists, but not my style. 86-90
Haut Corbin / Lactic, chocolate, ripe strawberry with some floral aspects. Palate is medium bodied, showing good structure if just a bit of heat on the finish. 88-90+
Guadet / Tonic cherry aspect. Nose is rich with hint of oak derived toast, palate shows some chocolate. Fine overall if just a bit prickly, but this estate has been improving lately. 87-89+
Grand Corbin d’Espagne / More subtle nose with hints of flowers and brambly fruit, medium bodied palate, showing good lift and good texture. 88-92
Grand Corbin / Veritable bon bon anglais, a Starburst fruit chew aspect. The palate is smooth though neither deep nor complex, showing fine freshness, easy to drink qualities but does not seem to have the structure for a long life. 87-90+
Franc Mayne / A more substantial palate, good structure and taste with rich notes of plum and cherry and spice. Not so complex but certainly pleasurable – barrel age will improve this one. 88-91
Ripeau / Not bad, good energy on the palate, a bit fuzzy (lacks focus) but overall an enjoyable drink without thinking too much. 86-89
St Georges (Cote Pavie) / Nose shows extraction, palate is more structured, a more serious wine though some teeth staining tannins. 86-90
Larmande / Very deep color. Nose and palate pleased with violets and stewed plums/cherries. Very rich overall, but a tad monolothic. 86-90
Soutard / Some oak-derived aromas with fruit, the palate is again rich here but somehow more nuanced, also seeming to show off more freshness, while staying deep and rich. Nice effort. 87-91
Dassault / Rich blackberry and cherry nose. Nice nose indeed. Palate does not quite deliver the promise of the nose, but is certainly tasty and full-bodied with perhaps just some drying tannins on the finish. 88-91+
Corbin Michotte / What happened here? It seemed that the region of Corbin in St. Emilion did well in 2008 but not here, at least not with this sample. I normally enjoy this estate but the 08 was rather asparagus like and too much green on the palate distracting any of its other qualities. 75-80?
Chrs,
Panos