Supposedly they were/are a source for Dominique Laurent, though perhaps just for the GE. I only saw 04 and 05 wines. The 04s were terribly marked by GM, and the 05s I own I have yet to open, though I dimly recall thinking one of the wines (perhaps a village Vosne?) was good, though I cannot recall much, if anything about style.
So bad it’s a double blech. Care to expound. Too oaky? Bretty? Over extracted? Underextracted? Dull? Boring? Picked up some 1999 & 2005’s on closeout. Haven’t opened one but jeesh, that bad?
When people complain about overpriced uninteresting red burgundy, duds that make people wonder why burgundy is special, Girardin could be a prime candidate for such a reaction.
Another way of saying:
Blech.
I tasted the Anne Gros les Echezeaux Les Loachausses recently and here are my notes.
Domaine Anne Gros Echezeaux Les Loachausses 2007
Evolved colour. Lifted pure fruit. Red cherry, great florality and some stalkyness. Crisp bright fruit with good structure; quite velevety. Not a blockbuster but good expressiveness. Good length and structure with a nice focusing acid bite at the end in the form of sour cherry.
Domaine Anne Gros Echezeaux Les Loachausses 2009
More flamboyant and more lifted, perfumed with oak well integrated. A lot more concentration and material with grippy tannins. Quite shut down and tightly wound but potentially very interesting. Whole bunch character coming through.
I tasted the Anne Gros les Echezeaux Les Loachausses recently and here are my notes.
Domaine Anne Gros Echezeaux Les Loachausses 2007
Evolved colour. Lifted pure fruit. Red cherry, great florality and some stalkyness. Crisp bright fruit with good structure; quite velevety. Not a blockbuster but good expressiveness. Good length and structure with a nice focusing acid bite at the end in the form of sour cherry.
Domaine Anne Gros Echezeaux Les Loachausses 2009
More flamboyant and more lifted, perfumed with oak well integrated. A lot more concentration and material with grippy tannins. Quite shut down and tightly wound but potentially very interesting. Whole bunch character coming through.
I liked the 2009 a lot and bought some. And the price was very appealing.
Girardin made some excellent reds in 1999, the only vintage in my experience where I’d say that. That said, I’ve never had any 2005s from them nor have I had any of their Echezeaux.
re Echezeaux in general, while Drouhin’s GE gets all the press the one vintage of their Echezeaux I’ve had (1993) was excellent. Hard to generalize from one example though.
I would have to put Rouget and Mugneret-Gibourg as my favorite Echezeaux producers after DRC. At the next price level I would Forey and Bocquenet at the top. It’s hard to evaluate Liger-Belair and Anne Gros, both only producing for under a decade.
Grands-Ecnezeaux favorites are probably Lamarche (since Nicole took charge) and Drouhin. The old Maison Leroy bottles from the 50s and 60s are magical.
Jean Marc Millot should be getting more attention for both E & GE, particularly from a value perspective. Lamarche as well since the daughter took over.
I know Mugneret-Gibourg is much loved here - and I like the wines, too - but in my humble opinion there is still a huge gap in class between M-G and the Echezeaux of Rouget … it´s simply a clear step up
(sure, also in market-price - so M-G is still the best value …)
One of the few E´s that can compete with Rouget is Liger-Belair (Comte) …
Not sure if the gap is “huge”, but surely agree that there is a gap between the Mugneret Echezaux and the Jayer/Rouget version, which is one of the greatest wines in all of Burgundy, to me.
In fairness to the Mugnerets…since I first visited in 1988 (Dr. Georges was then very sick), their Echezaux was always the 3rd best wine there, behind the Clos Vougeot and Ruchottes-Chambertin (not sure which of those is usually better). It has always been good, and has improved much since 1988 , but is still third best even there.
By contrast, IMO, the Echezaux chez Jayer/Rouget (which is a wholly different style of winemaking from Mugneret…which stresses finesse)…is the top wine there, though the Cros Parantoux is a trophier wine, for sure. It is always great there…as is the VR Beaumonts…The Cros P is more expensive and more coveted, but…their Echezaux is the best example of Echezaux I know (and the Daniel Rion estate makes a nice one, too).
So…with that in mind and with the more opulent winemaking signature of Jayer/Rouget…clearly a “step up” for the latter.
How do you compare , “step up”-wise the Rouget Echezaux to the Mugnerets’ Ruchottes or CV, Gerhard?
I haven´t visited M-G after 2002 - and nothing tasted after 2007, with the exception of one Gevrey 1er Cru ´11 …
I agree that (at Mugneret-Giburg) the CV and Ruchottes-Ch was/is slightly superior to the Echezeaux … the E. often had a certain “stemminess” (even if it´s destemmed) and more prominent acidity - both not necessarily negative - but I felt CV + R-Ch were simply more intense … one reason why I always bought these - and rarely the E (and also it was always difficult with two extra invoices for the “Georges Mugneret”-domaine and the “Mugneret-Gibourg”-domaine … which now has been solved). I used to prefer the CV, but not always.
(BTW: the Ruchottes has recently been replanted and delassified to Gevrey 1er Cru … is there a Ruchottes again ?)
I disagree that the M-G-style has more finesse than Rouget, rather the opposite. What I admire at Rouget is his perfect combination of finesse and intensity, without heaviness … and always the power and structure in the background, very elegant fruit in the foreground, beautiful perfumed. The wood integrates beautifully over time. The wines simply have great class and style in a very natural way.
For me the M-G wines feel “heavier”, less natural and sometimes with a slightly alcoholic touch … but nevertheless I really like the textbook beetroot/tomatoe/red-berries-fruit - all comparisons of course on a very high level …
There was always Ruchottes. The young vine portion was bottles separately as a 1er for several years, but that now is mature enough to be included in the Ruchottes, as of 2012.
Though I prefer the Rouget version, Gerhard, i think it is more about power, extract and oak than the Mugneret version (which did have a stemmy aspect often when Dr. Georges made it…and even later). To me “power, extract and obvious new oak” is not finesse…sort of the opposite. A heavy signature style, albeit a tasty one, and impressive.