I’m excited to announce my first steps with Volnay’s la Pousse d’Or. This is one of the most historic wineries in all of Burgundy, once part of a larger estate in the middle 19th century that included la Romanee Conti and the Clos de Tart. It has been reinvigorated under the care of Patrick Landanger, the owner since 1997, whose meticulous detail and organic farming regimen has the estate’s holdings living up to their outstanding potential. Three of the four offerings here are Monopole 1er crus (the domaine is the only owner)…Volnay may perhaps be the star of the much heralded 2010 vintage, with exceptional focus and clarity to highlight Volnay’s signature finesse.
All prices are the best nationally, if not globally, according to wine-searcher pro. They are due to leave the winery after the fall harvest. 30% deposit due to confirm, the balance due prior to the wines leaving Volnay.
Zee wines:
-2010 Volnay 1er En Cailleret: $65 per
“A lightly spiced nose evidences a hint of smoke as well as plenty of minerality on the ripe cassis, plum and violet infused nose. There is excellent richness and mid-palate concentration to the suave, round and mouth coating flavors that possess fine delineation before terminating in a mineral-inflected, dusty and impressively persistent finish. Lovely.” 91 points Burghound
-2010 Volnay 1er Clos de l’Audignac: $65 per
“Here the nose is earthier and not as elegant with a somber if complex nose of dark berries and black fruit liqueur aromas. There is excellent richness to the sleekly muscular and powerful medium-bodied flavors that ooze a fine dry extract that imparts a velvety texture to the driving, long, balanced and impressively deep finish. This built to age effort is a robust and imposing Volnay.” 92 points Burghound
-2010 Volnay 1er Clos de la Bousse d’Or: $75 per
“This is slightly more complex if not more elegant with a more floral-infused nose that includes rose petal and violets on the plum and black cherry infused nose. There is excellent concentration to the detailed, intense and delicious flavors that possess that beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the mouth coating and suave yet firm and enduring finish.” 92 points Burghound
-2010 Volnay 1er Clos des 60 Ouvrees (a small parcel within Caillerets): $75 per
“This is more aromatically complex still with a beautifully floral nose of rose petal, violet and lavender as well as liqueur of red currant and black cherry. The hallmark minerality of this wine is very much in evidence on the palate staining flavors that possess a silky and highly sophisticated mouth feel while culminating in a dusty, explosive and gorgeously long finish. This does that wonderful slow build from the mid-palate to the finale and this should age exceptionally well.” 93 points Burghound
-2010 Puligny Montrachet 1er Caillerets: $79 per
“A discreet touch of mineral reduction adds breath to the
otherwise fresh, elegant and beautifully complex nose of acacia blossom, rose petal, spiced pear and white peach. The
impressively concentrated and intensely mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors possess a textured mouth feel thanks to the
abundance of dry extract that also buffers well the firm acid spine. There is excellent energy and delineation to the driving
finish and overall I very much like both the impeccable balance as well as the clean and understated style.” 93 points Burghound
-2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Groseilles: $79 per
“A discreet touch of wood sets off a very fresh, pure and
perfumed mix of red and blue pinot fruit that is trimmed in subtle spice and mineral hints. There is good richness and excellent intensity to the detailed and extract-rich flavors that possess a very clean finish of admirable depth, length and balance. This is lovely and very Chambolle in basic character.” 91 points Burghound
-2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Charmes: $99 per
“A discreet but beguilingly perfumed nose of liqueur of
red berry fruit, plum and wet stone hints complements well the rich, pure and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that also brim with palate coating dry extract. There is a suave and velvety texture that presently completely buffers the equally fine-grained tannins on the lingering finish. A classic Charmes that is generous but exceptionally fine.” 92 points Burghound
2010 Corton Clos du Roi: $79 per
“This is much more animale in character than the Bressandes with a somber if highly complex
nose featuring dark berry fruit, stone, earth and underbrush nuances. There is an overt muscularity to the big-bodied, intense and robust flavors that possess a most admirable amount of structure-buffering dry extract that imparts a velvety texture to the borderline chewy and terrifically persistent finish. A classic Clos du Roi that is built for the long-term.” 94 points Burghound
First come, first served.
Cheers to your health…
RP