Berserker dinner in Appleton, WI

I’m headed over to Jan and Sandia Brekke’s house tonight for some steak on the grill and good wine.

I went to the butcher today to get some Prime steaks for the grill, and since none were in the glass case but one Prime ribeye, I asked what else was available. Never hurts to ask, because the butcher said he had some Prime tenderloin in the back and he could carve me out a few pieces. I gladly accepted, and these babies are so red, they are almost purple!!!

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Jan and Sandia, thanks (AGAIN) for a wonderful time! I am fortunate to be treated like this when I come to Appleton…

We started the evening (after sending the kids out to play) with some '96 Henriot Champgne Brut Millesime, with some fantastic smoked salmon spread from Neimuth’s Market (first enjoyed at New Year’s, also at the Brekke household, and never forgotten) and some pan seared scallops. The Henriot was not a very yeasty Champagne, but perfectly balanced, and just the right amount of acidity, without making it come across as citrusy. Crisp, green apple, unsalted roasted nuts, and some toast on the palate - light on the palate yet still substantial on the tongue, if that makes sense. It reiterated why I love Champagne, even without being one of the very best I’ve had.

With the beautiful tenderloins shown above, expertly grilled by Jan, we were treated with some '94 Pontet Canet. One of those ‘perfect pairings’ that you just celebrate when you nail it. The nose on the Pontet Canet was just singing - far more open and encompassing than I anticipated, and furthermore, the fruit was bright and ripe. I could smell the bouquet from quite a distance - something you’d expect in a ‘big’ wine, which this was not, but it had hit its stride. That classic Bordeaux nose with the soil and cedar mixed with the ripe black and red fruits - beautiful sweet anise and something sweet I perceived to be like bubble gum or banana peel. A gorgeous nose, and I would have been happy with just that. On the palate, the tannins were big and ripe, and the texture on the fore and midpalate was very silky - almost so silky that I figured the wine might be a bit dead, or over the hill, but the finish came on strong, with the drying tannins and some bitterness, like that of fruit seeds. It had the body to stand up to the steak without being overpowering, and was quite enjoyable on its own as well. A beautiful wine that shows what a tremendous quality bargain Pontet Canet can be.

Sounds like a great wine, and a great dinner, Brad.

Todd,

Another fun evening with great food and wine. Thanks for the amazing steaks. We certainly could have cut them with a plastic fork ! Your eloquent description of the wines is spot on. I agree that the Henriot was a nice opener. Not a profound champagne, but enjoyable. The Pontet Canet was everything I am looking for in Bordeaux. Great nose with classic tobacco, cedar, pencil lead. Soft tannins. Initially a slight bitterness on the finish that softened over time. Most importantly, it paired beautifully with the tenderloin.

Enjoy the rest of your trip. We’ll do it again next time you’re in town.