A few weeks ago, a merchant friend of mine organized a great event circled around Beaujolais from his portfolio and grilled food alongside that. It was a marvellous event in a familiar atmosphere with most wines showing very well and some (not all) courses going well with the wines.
Here’s what we had:
Flight 1: Beaujolais Blanc
In Flight 1, we had two 2012 Beaujolais Blanc, both made from 100% Chardonnay, one (the Vissoux) aged in steel tanks, the other (the Thivin) aged in wooden barrels. They were served alongside a grilled watermelon with Edamame beans and fresh goat cheese. I slightly preferred the Vissoux as it went better with the food, but the Thivin was quite good as well.
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2012 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Chardonnay Beaujolais - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Light yellow. In the nose floral notes, some pear, herbs. Pleasant. On the palate, it’s tight with good acidity, rather compact, not super complex, but pleasant to drink. (86 pts.) -
2012 Château Thivin Beaujolais Clos de Rochebonne - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Medium pale yellow. In the nose pear, tarragon, apricot, some oaky spiciness. On the palate, quite rich, but a touch flat due to rather mild acidity. Nutty notes in the medium long finish. Not sure about its ageing potential. (86 pts.)
Flight 2: Domaine des Nugues
In Flight 2, we had two 2012 Gamays from Domaine des Nugues with grilled kidneys with peach. I liked both equally well, the Beaujolais Villages was great to drink and went very well with the kidneys, the Fleurie had way more substance, but also quite strong tannins and acidity at the moment.
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2012 Domaine des Nugues Beaujolais-Villages - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages
Light cherry red. In the nose, very nice and inviting with red currant and sour cherry notes, maybe some Iris. On the palate, it’s very juicy with medium acidity, a slightly tart character, red currant again, medium body. Short to medium finish. Very good for a Beaujolais-Villages. (87 pts.) -
2012 Domaine des Nugues Fleurie - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Medium red. In the nose, sweet and sour cherry, red and black currant, a fine mix of light and dark notes. On the palate, it’s very tart and has quite strong tannins for a Fleurie, medium plus acidity (sour cherry acidity). Tart finish. You have to like it. I like it ok, it is more nuanced than the 12 Beaujolais-Villages, but less eminently drinkable. (87 pts.)
Flight 3: Vissoux Coeur de Vendanges and Thivin Brouilly Reverdon
In Flight 3, we had the Vissoux 2012 Beaujolais-Villages Coeur de Vendanges and the 2012 Château Thivin Brouilly Reverdon and shrimp burgers. I absolutely preferred the Vissoux, which I had drunk before and liked a lot. It’s just perfectly balanced with crisp fruit, nice minerality and lots of deepness. The Thivin Brouilly was slightly disappointing, a bit simple and not very well balanced. Still, a decent drink.
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2012 Domaine du Vissoux / Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Coeur du Vendange - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais
Bright cherry red. In the nose, sunny and inviting, bright fruit, very elegant, lots of nuances, cherry aromas, wet stone. On the palate, it has a very fine acidity, again cherry notes, nice minerality in the long and juicy finish. Good now and with excellent potential. (90 pts.) -
2012 Château Thivin Brouilly Reverdon - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Brouilly
Light crimson. In the nose red currant, a bit one-dimensional, has a slightly artificial appearance. In the mouth, red currant again, quite present acidity, tart finish. Drinks ok, but is a bit simple overall and not on the level of the Thivin Côte de Brouillys. (84 pts.)
Flight 4: Two wines from Raphael Chopin
Then we had two wines from Raphael Chopin, a young gun from Lantigné. I had had the Morgon Charmes before and it showed consistent with the last bottle - decent, but a tad rustic. I adored the Archamabault, which is Morgon par excellence, very clean and precise and with great minerality. This is a domaine to watch. These were served with a grilled veal steak “Jerk Style” with pineapple and mango. A marvellous combination.
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2012 Domaine Raphaël Chopin Morgon Les Charmes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Medium red. In the nose fragrant, more dark than light fruit in the beginning, but lighter in the end. On the palate, it’s playful with red and black berry notes, some tannin, medium acidity. A bit rustic in the finish. (86 pts.) -
2012 Domaine Raphaël Chopin Morgon Archambault - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Medium crimson colour. In the nose, this is great, wet stone in the sun, black cherry, some cassis, nicely transparent in its aromatics. On the palate, it’s more on the compact and restrained side, fairly strong acidity, nice minerality. Long finish, very clean. Maybe even a bit better than the 2011 Archambault, but at least on par with the 2011. (91 pts.)
Flight 5: Two wines from Château du Moulin-à-Vent
Next, we had two 2011s from Château du Moulin-à-Vent, both of which I had drunk before as well. The village is on a good way and very well balanced. The Champ du Cour is still a bit oaky, but I’m confident that it will turn out fine. Like the wines from Château des Jacques, eventually (after 10 years or so), the oak should integrate. In any case, the Champ du Cour is a great wine with very fine potential. The food (grilled fish with leeks) did not match very well with the wines.
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2011 Château du Moulin-a-Vent Moulin-à-Vent - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Drank twice in two months, both bottles consistent. Dark, meaty red. In the nose, this is stony, with granite-like coolness, crisp black berry fruit, hints of spiciness. On the palate, the acidity is just a bit out of place, there’s medium tannin, quite a lot of power and persistence. It’s still a bit compact and flexed muscle right now. Quite long, but a bit abrupt in the finish. Hold for two more years. (89 pts.) -
2011 Château du Moulin-a-Vent Moulin-à-Vent Champ de Cour - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Colour as before. In the nose, the oak is still quite present, but is getting more and more integrated, a nice spiciness comes through. On the palate, this is also more open than the last bottle, less compact, the tannins are silkier and less hard. Nicely tart finish. Beautiful and on a good way, but still too young. (90 pts.)
Flight 6: Thibault Moulin-à-Vent VV and Château Thivin Cuvée Zaccharie 2011
Finally, we had two more 2011s, the 2011 Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes from Thibault Liger Belair and the 2011 Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie from Château Thivin. Both wines were excellent, but I just love those Moulin-à-Vents from Thibault, the 2011 as much as I liked the more linear 2010 and the richer and plummier 2009. Both wines went very well with a grilled beef saté.
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2011 Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
Medium, meaty red. In the nose, this is very fragrant, quite tight, right now a bit impermeable, there are red and black berries, some plum, nice spiciness. On the palate, it’s compact and tight, medium to mild acidity, lots of substance, long finish. Excellent. (91 pts.) -
2011 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie Geoffray - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Côte de Brouilly
Medium red. In the nose, this is incredibly spicy, fine, some plum, some cherry, a certain creaminess. On the palate, this is also very fine with medium acidity, fine fruit, lots of balance and a long finish. Pure understatement and good potential. (90 pts.)
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