Argentina - Buenos Aires, Mendoza & Bariloche

I enjoyed the Palacio Duhao (a Park Hyatt).

The fine arts museum, cemetery and botanic gardens were nice. All in the Recoleta…

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Most of the big and nicer hotels are in Recoleta. There are probably some in Microcentro although I wouldn’t recommend staying there. It’s not bad, just not as nice as Recoleta. Recoleta is old money and somewhat of an older crowd, at least in comparison to trendier areas. Not the best for dining but there are options. Recoleta arguably has a more European look than the rest of the city. It’s safe but also close to the notorious Villa 31 near the train station and petty theft motochorros (thieves on motorcycles) target the area around the nice hotels. Don’t let that dissuade you, just be aware.

There might be some nice hotels in Puerto Madero but I loathe that area of glass and steel modern architecture. I guess it would kind of be like staying in La Defence if you went to Paris. Meh. But I am told celebs live in some of those sterile glass boxes if that’s of interest.

Palermo (Hollywood or Soho) would be my choice. It doesn’t really have bigger hotel chains but there are some nice boutique hotels. It’s very central to pretty much everything you’ll want to see. Lots of restaurants and overall pretty walkable. Downside is it is pretty touristy and trendy in places. Some areas with loud bars, etc. But all of that mess is pretty easy to avoid. Plaza Serrano and surrounding area the main area to avoid for all of that kind of stuff. Safe, but it’s another area where motochorros prey on tourists.

Slightly low key, more local feel are two areas near both Palermo and Recoleta called Barrio Norte and Palermo Chico. Not sure if either has hotels but you may find a little boutique place.

Belgrano is a wonderful neighborhood and there are probably some smaller hotels there. Used to be kind of its own city before it all became one big metropolis so it retains a little bit of its own village feel kind of like Montmartre in Paris but bigger. Just be aware that it’s not as central as Palermo or Recoleta but it’s an easy Uber or Subway (10-15 minutes) to either of those areas. Some great architecture, especially in the Belgrano R area.

Thanks for the indepth comments!! Will definitely review with my wife.

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We stayed in Palermo Hollywood in March and loved it. Easy uber everywhere we wanted to go, and great to walk around. No motocycle villains during our stay. @TGibson gives great recs and knows a ton. I habe been meaning to post on what we did and enjoyed but haven’t gotten to it yet. You only have 2 days, so consider the things you.are trying to do and stay close. I am really glad we went, distance and all.

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Speaking of two days, one thing I neglected to mention which might be worth considering is that neighborhoods like Palermo, Recoleta, and even Belgrano, are plenty big enough that you could spend two days in each and still not see everything. They’re also close enough to one another that it’s easy and quick to bounce between all three in a single day.

As a former resident of Recoleta/Retiro, I’d encourage a stay in that area. Loi Suites Recoleta is in a great location and would be great for a 2 night stay. You can head over to the MALBA, have tea at Alvear Palace, check out the cemetery, and have a great meal at Fervor (classy, more local parilla), all within a walk. An Uber to Palermo is easy. Some other notable restaurants: La Carniceria, Roux, and Gardiner. Enjoy!

Jack, what hotel did you stay in. Still trying to decide what neighborhood to stay in.

We stayed in an airbnb, and I would stay in that one again, absolutely. I will PM you the info in case you are interested.

Given our short day we are opting for a hotel as opposed to airbnb. For now booked at Loi Suites Recoleta based on the recommendation from Gus. Sort of wish we had a bit more time in Buenos Aires but also want to make sure we get to Ushuaia without any problems for our cruise.

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The chef from Mengano has opened a new place called Bordó. Like Mengano, it’s supposed to have a solid wine list. Argentines often do kooky, experimental things that rarely impress me but I would trust this chef. At the moment he’s doing plates primarily based off a single ingredient.

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Demijohns aren’t seen so much in Buenos Aires these days but they’re still around in the provinces. Note the recommended weekend exercises posted on the wall and make sure to repeat.

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Does the discount work for dollars and pesos alike?

I’m not aware of anyplace that accepts USD other than exchange houses. Also, if you are exchanging, they almost universally want crisp $100 bills with no tears, major markings, etc. Some places will exchange smaller bills like 50s and maybe 20s but at a lesser rate.

I’ve been seeing some nice reviews for Berria, the new Basque resto.

Current tasting menu from Julia. Julia is great. If you want to go, you need to reserve well in advance. While this is about $50 prior to the decline of the blue dollar, it’s still pretty good at US$150 including the wine pairing which are all pretty nice wines.

Last night a friend ate at a new place from former Ajo Negro chef called Silvino. Out the door for $30 pp. Dining scene in BA is looking very good right now. Despite the bump in prices in USD, it’s still a big discount to the US.SILVINO (@silvinoquerido) • Instagram photos and videos

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I can’t find much mention in this thread of recommendations for hotels in Mendoza. I could use some help. Entre Cielos and Viamonte have been recommended by the travel agent. Cielos is pretty expensive.

Can’t speak to hotels in Mendoza. Generally speaking, prices in AR are rough now due to the current fx.
If you stay away from core tourist areas, some decent value can still be had.

Some friends went to a ‘closed door’ restaurant in Buenos Aires last week and had a nice Basque meal for under US$25 pp. Casa Frontera. Anyone can go to closed door places with reservations.




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Following…… We are thinking of heading there in March. More recs please.

March is a lovely time of year there. I think there’s a good chance the peso valuation will come down by then. It’s just a matter of time.

Any specific areas or types of things you’re interested in?

There’s been a lot of hype around Ness. It opened after I left so I haven’t been. My friend says it’s his favorite flan in BA.

I should also mention that El Preferido (same owner as Don Julio) is supposed to be opening a wine bar just down the street from El Prefe. It’s been rumored for a long time but it looks like it’s finally happening. I am pretty sure they will also serve ice cream. Wine list has always been solid at El Prefe and their ice cream is some of the best in town so be on the lookout for this place.