I know that there will be those who simply chalk this up to wishful thinking, but it does seem to me that it’s possible that some who have been drinking Barolo for a very long time have traumatic memories of wines from the past that were simply unapproachable for decades because they were tannic, acidic monsters, often lacking an abundance of fruit. Because of both wine making methods and weather, wines that were to say the least harsh, were not uncommon. There can be no doubt that things have changed in the Langhe that have made most of the wines more drinkable in their youth. I’m not suggesting that there is any level of parity between superb old bottles and beautifully made young Barolo. I’m simply suggesting that today’s wines may be much more rewarding in 10 years than could have ever been hoped for with many of the wines from the distant past. What do you think?
Depends on which wines you buy and how much you can tolerate oak.
No. (Nice troll, though.) The ever-inceasing number of formerly modernist producers who have rejected barrique and ultra-short macerations should tell you all that you need to know on that count. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to find wines that are made in whati will call a
“progressive traditionalist” style, like Sandrone’s, that will allow drinking at age 10 (or earlier), but can also deliver the traditional goods at age 30…
The answer is mostly yes and slightly no. The Barolo of the past is mostly of the past. Many producers will tell you they seek to make wines that are softer and more open. Many critics, and I will add my voice to the group, will say that they are tasting wines that are better at a younger age. Many producers have created wines that are made to appeal to anyone that wants to drink Barolo at a younger age. The G.D Vajra Barolo Albe is one example. And be at price point that works for a younger, less affluent buyer. But there are also a small group of ultra-traditionalist, and may God bless them, that the needle really hasn’t moved much. I like both. As long as you keep the barrique at bay. As one producer put it.
“More modern than the traditionalist, more traditional than the modernist”.
Well considering the modernist’s drive has been to make the wines more approachable up-front, then depending how successful they have been, there is some merit to your argument, and there are many wines that offer appeal when young, albeit generally needing to be eaten with appropriate food. Horizontal tastings of young Barolo/Barbaresco without food still becomes difficult, no matter how much the winemakers try to soften the wines. Even tasting 4-5 young wines with 3-4 sips each, can feel like my palate is being challenged/affected.
I do think many have succeeded in making the wines more approachable (though there have been some where overt influence from new oak disguises the flavours I buy nebbiolo for).
So why do we still bang on about cellaring it? For my palate, a great mature nebbiolo can (but far from always) be one of the most exciting/cerebral/pleasing wine experiences going, and I’ve never experienced anything to match it in immature Barolo/Barbaresco (even though many offer enjoyment).
Meanwhile the question that remains (as Bill points out above), is whether it is a trade-off between upfront accessibility vs. the potential for that truly great wine at maturity. I really don’t know, but (at least currently) cautiously stick to more traditionally made wines for those I wish to cellar for decades.
regards
Ian
Anyone had Sandrone’s 1990 Cannubi lately? I wish I had a bottle or two.
Sorry, I should have pointed out above, that while many of the wines do taste better young that they will reward some time (6-8 years) in the cellar.
Not for years. One of the greatest bottles of wine I’ve ever had. Hoping that my '01, '04, '06, '07, '10 Sandrone CB become something like this…
No one, absolutely NO ONE is making wines the same way as 30-40 years ago. Yes, many don’t use small casks. But no one vats for 4-6 months anymore. No one picks early anymore. So harsh tannins with extreme extraction just doesn’t occur. High, harsh tannins and high acidity required long cask age and long bottle age to become drinkable. When things came together; yes, the results could be outstanding with long age. But it did require a long, long time.
I purposely did not mention traditional or modern in the original post because the premise was not meant to be limited to just modern producers. I had the 08 Bartolo a few months back, consumed over 2 days, and I’m very optimistic as to how it will show 10 years from now.
I have gotten to try a few Barolos and Barbarescos in the last few months in the '99-'01 zone–i.e., about 10 years from release. I think I only found one of them rewarding to drink. So if there is some kind of “new paradigm” that makes these readier earlier, it is something that emerged only within the last couple of years, and therefore I’d be extremely hesitant to draw any conclusions in either direction about how that affects the drinking window. I will say that in other categories of wine, changes that have made wines less tannic young have also made them less tannic with a bit of age, but that has not meant that they’ve matured any faster in any other respect or that they’ve delivered all the character of a mature wine experience any earlier.
Eric,
I agree with your point, but who vatted for ‘4-6 months’?
There have never been better wines produced than now.
Do you remember all that shite that was offered 20 years ago?
And now take a look at Produttori for example. A collective makes wine of that class!
And for that money. I am impressed.
Another thing are highly recommended hopeless cases (hopeless I think) like the Cicala from Aldo Conterno 1996. I bought 12, I still have 5 and this wine is and was unnecessarily hard and charme is a word from a different language. I dislike it and I normally adore hardcore tradition a lot.
It is barred until 2026 and maybe then I am a fan - but I still think it is a wine not to my liking.
This happens - on the other hand there is the 2004 Romirasco from Aldo Conterno one of the best Barolis I ever had in fruit. Super stuff! You loose some, you win some. I had at least 12 bottles and 3 Mags and this wine sings. I don`t think it will ever close down.
They get good money now, have more knowledge and make better wine by the time progressing.
I think.
I thought this one would get a little more air time. The answer I think has already probably been given, but I do wonder–what do you folks (perhaps I should say we folks) who love the traditional barolos with 20-30 years of age behind them drink when you don’t have access to a beautifully aged nebbiolo? Say you are at a restaurant and the oldest thing on the list is a 99 or a 2001, or you are unlucky enough to love only the aged wines, but have only been collecting for a few years? do you go for a compromise earlier enjoyable producer of barbaresco? Do you bail and drink barbera, or some other variety? Beer? chinon? Oregon Pinot? rioja?
Tons of wines are great to drink young, nebbiolo just ain’t one of them.
John, I drink as much Sangiovese as I do Nebbiolo, so that’s an easy call - pass on both the '99 and '01 Baroli, and go for a Chianti from 2005. Or a Rosso di Montalcino from a quality producer - Stella di Campalto or Salicutti are just two I’ve had in the last six months, and both drank nicely.
Or a Sicilian red - I had a Gulfi Nero d’Avola from 2009 that was young but still fun to drink the other night.
If anyone can’t drink the 2008/09/10 Vajra Barolo Albe and see how good/drinkable they are at this stage, maybe they should just stick to drinking nice, round Cali Cab and Merlot. Or perhaps the Prisoner is a wine they might enjoy.
I don’t understand the premise of this thread. There are wines from every grapes that can be drunk earlier on. The great nebbiolo require lots of time, so do Bordeaux etc. Seems like a 
to me.
Not necessarily. Drink a Langhe nebbiolo, or an earlier-drinking nebbilo, like Anotoniolo’s Juvenia or a Lessona (blend, but still mostly neb), or, a B&B from a ripe(er) year like a 2009 or 2007, they seem to mature a little faster and don’t seem to shut down as much as the more structured years.
The premise is simple: that while perhaps sacrificing some of the tertiary nuance of a 20-30 year wine, much of the Barolo of any style being made today, will be enjoyable and rewarding much earlier. That generally would not have been the case not so long ago.