April trip to France (Burgundy, Lyon, Rhone and Paris)

[melvinyeo]

Finally got my notes up, my first pilgrimage to Burgundy and a revisit to Rhone after doing it last year. @PCLIN and a few other friends joined for this trip.

WINES IN FRANCE - (10/4/2025-20/4/2025)

Dinner at L’Aspérule Dijon
Superb meal with a strong Asian influence that was well-integrated.

• 2014 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (10/4/2025)
  At L’Aspérule Dijon. Nose wasn’t expressive but palate had crystalline citrus fruit. Surprisingly no oak notes and sweeter than I expected that was slightly overbearing. Also had a distracting lactic note. (91 pts.)
• 2008 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (10/4/2025)
  At L’Aspérule Dijon. Was looking forward to trying this since ‘08 Dujacs have been knockouts in my experience. Very lifted and floral at first, excellent concentration of dark cherry fruit but fell flat after an hour. (92 pts.)
• 2021 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne Les Lutenières - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (10/4/2025)
  At L’Aspérule Dijon. From young vines Colombiere. More primary at first than my last bottle with sweet candied fruit, but gained complexity and savoury notes with air. Better on second day. Punched well above its classification. (93 pts.)

Domaine tasting at Fourrier

• 2023 Jean-Marie Fourrier Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Francois said they started buying grapes to make a Bourgogne in 2018 to make Fourrier more accessible to the masses. Definitely was a pocket-friendly Fourrier with the signature candied fruit in a forward, no-frills manner.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Oldest vines from 1920, youngest are 50 years old. Fourrier domaine wines are always a step up from the negoce ones, and this is regularly one of my favourite village wines. '23 was no exception; classy red fruit with good lift, felt this was good to go.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Echezeaux Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Closer to the MSD side and presented like a Chambolle with more minerality and floral fruit. Stood out in the line-up for being the most un-Gevrey wine.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Deeper and more structured than the previous wines with a distinct saline quality.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Only four owners of this plot from the northern part of Gevrey. Cooler microclimate was evident, this was fresher and more perfumed with a distinct minerality.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Close proximity to the Goulots, old vines planted in 1928 in a site that housed an old quarry. Surrounded by a wall that protects the vines from wind and able to reflect the sun in a microclimate. Very balanced and complete that combined purity and structure, one of the best wines of the tasting.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Very transparent, seamless dark red fruit but quite reserved today.
• 2023 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Only five barrels produced. Incredibly silky and perfumed, good restraint behind the sweet fruit. The queen to the king that is CSJ according to Francois.

Lunch at Le Millésime

• 2015 Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Clos Sainte Sophie - France, Champagne (11/4/2025)
  At Le Millésime. Powerful but with chalky salinity, very well-balanced unlike some other Lassaigne wines which can be screechy. Also no oxidative notes that I found in the 2014 and 2012. Superb length. (94 pts.)
• 2017 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (11/4/2025)
  At Le Millésime. Rather coiled at first with reserved blue fruit, but class showed after some time in the glass with a velvety, silky texture that punched way above its classification. (92 pts.)
• 2015 Emmanuel Rouget Vosne-Romanée - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (11/4/2025)
  At Le Millésime. Expressive and wild nose of strawberries and spice. Lovely silky texture but a little rustic. (92 pts.)

Domaine tasting at Bruno Clair

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Grasses Têtes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From clay soils, structured but sweet red fruit.

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay Les Longeroies - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Higher acidity and more elegant than Les Grasses Têtes, his Marsannays are always fantastic value.

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos du Fonteny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Was very impressed by the 2022 previously and this was similarly good. From a good parcel beside Ruchotte, Arthur described this as a Chambolle-like Gevrey. Very fine and textural.

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Similar to Fourrier’s tasted earlier in the day, this was structured and coiled.

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Fine-boned, feminine Gevrey GC that didn’t lack structure despite its finesse. Superb.

• 2023 Domaine Bruno Clair Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (11/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Artur showed two different barrels to illustrate the difference between cooperages. The Ermitage was silky and transparent, the Rousseau was toastier and had more prominent vanilla notes.
  
  
  
  Wines at La Cuverie
  Drinking some Liger Belair while looking over their Clos du Chateau and La Colombiere vineyards on a sunny day was a dream.

• 2019 Domaine Vincey Champagne Grand Cru Le Grand Jardin - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (11/4/2025)
  At La Cuverie De Vosne. Disgorged Jul 2023, zero dosage. As usual with this producer, more oxidative for a Chardonnay with the oak use which was more obvious in this cuvee compared to the others that I have tried. Superb salinity and texture. (92 pts.)

• 2017 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée La Colombiere - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (11/4/2025)
  At La Cuverie De Vosne. Stemmy, intoxicating nose as usual for CLB, but felt a little forced and artificial from its humble origins (we were drinking this from La Cuverie overlooking this plot in his backyard). (92 pts.)

Dinner at Cave et cuisine
Superb food and atmosphere at Fabienne’s restaurant.

• 2022 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (11/4/2025)
  At Cave et Cuisine. Still disjointed with unintegrated oak, not as tensile as I expected with a distracting lactic note similar to the Raveneau the day before. (89 pts.)
• 2022 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (11/4/2025)
  At Cave et Cuisine. Floral nose but more concentrated and dense than I expected of a Mugnier. (91 pts.)
• 2022 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (11/4/2025)
  At Cave et Cuisine. After a disappointing Coche this was a welcome addition. Tensile, precise citrus fruit that made us say Roulot is Roulot. (93 pts.)
• 2019 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (11/4/2025)
  At Cave et Cuisine. Winemaker was beside us and shared this with us. Impressive concentration for a village but without being dense, nice purity of dark cherry fruit. (92 pts.)

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[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Le Guellec-Ducouet
A friend had high praise for Domaine Le Guellec Ducoet and I didn’t hesitate to visit. This is a relatively new domaine that is small in stature but high in quality (harvest is still done by friends and family). Michael studied plant science and came back in 2018 to restart his family domaine. He took us through the 2023s (detailed notes in comments) in his new facility, and also showed us the Clos Champs vineyard that is just behind his grandfather’s house which was also the old cellar. Michael is clearly a thoughtful winemaker and all his wines showed purity and energy that stylistically reminded me of Duroche but with sweeter fruit. All the 2023s (which were all destemmed) showed well, but my personal favourite were the CdN village and Clos Champs that were both serious for their level but expressive at the same time.

• 2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From large 500l barrels, purchased grapes. Ripe tropical fruit but balanced, easy drinking.
• 2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. A mix of purchased grapes and from their own 0.1 hectare vineyard in Queue de Hareng. Gentle and cold maceration, very serious that reminded me of Bachelet’s wine from the same vineyard.
• 2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeunes Rois - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. More reserved with good density and spicy dark cherry fruit.
• 2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée 93 - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From the lieu-dit of Champ and vines planted in 1923. More open than the Jeunes Rois with elevated acidity.
• 2023 Domaine Le Guellec-Ducouet Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Champs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From a vineyard beside the grandfather’s house, planted in 1930. Serious, deep smoky nose; palate showed the toastiness of Rousseau barrels. More backward but more potential than the wines, interestingly Michael said that the Jeunes Rois couldn’t take the Rousseau barrels after experimenting in 2022.

Lunch at Caves Madeleine
Crap wine but one of the best food on the trip. These French bistros have a very high quality of food with interesting dishes that go beyond the boring clichéd ones that you get in Singapore.

• 2021 Morgane Turlier Vin de France Pangea - France, Vin de France (12/4/2025)
  At Caves Madeleine. Cloudy colour with lots of brett and VA. Even in France this was unclean. Interesting to a limited extent. (80 pts.)

Visit to Drouhin
I only wanted one negoce visit and it was a no-brainer to choose Drouhin; I love their signature lifted red fruit that is always full of purity and clarity. The walk through their underground cellars was truly experiencing history in the flesh with structures that date back to the third century. I also asked for a curated tasting since I wanted the signature wines of the estate, and was pleasantly surprised that the 2021 reds showed so brilliantly. Pierre the guide said that the domaine rates this vintage very highly and I could see why.

• 2022 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Texturally waxy and saline, surprisingly ready for a 2022. Superb richness and length. 15% new oak, large parcel that is harvested over 6 different periods and the best grapes are selected for this cuvee. The rest are declassified into the Côte de Beaune.
• 2021 Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Perfumed red fruit, excellent density but still restrained. The guide said this reminded him of the '84. Best plots are selected for this wine, the rest are declassified into the Côte de Beaune.
• 2021 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From Malconsorts and Chaumes beside La Tache. A little reduction with excellent concentration and Vosne spice. Superb, refined tannins.
• 2021 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Floral and perfumed pretty red fruit on both the nose and the palate, but more obvious tannins at this point. 30% stem inclusion. A winner every year for me.
• 2021 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Superb concentration with serious structure but too reserved today.

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[MChang]

Been following this on IG! Fantastic notes and pictures!

[melvinyeo]

Dinner at Cédric Burtin
Excellent dinner that showcased a good mix of classic French techniques and inventive cooking.

• 2017 Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vieille Vigne Le Bateau - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/4/2025)
  At Cédric Burtin. Disgorged Jul 2022, 1.5g/l dosage. Varied experiences with this producer but this had power behind the tensile citrus fruit. Superb energy. (93 pts.)
• 2012 Eric Rodez Champagne Grand Cru Les Genettes Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/4/2025)
  At Cédric Burtin. Surprisingly red-fruited and round for a BdB, too much oxidative notes. (89 pts.)
• 2019 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Bourgogne Blanc Initiales B.B. - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (12/4/2025)
  At Cédric Burtin. Rich but with terrific acidity, this reminded me of Lamy-Caillat in terms of the dry extract. (93 pts.)
• 2017 Cecile Tremblay Vosne-Romanée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (12/4/2025)
  At Cédric Burtin. Similar to previous impressions but this went through ups and downs. More expressive than the Chambolle initially but became slightly pruney in an Italian manner, before recovering to show perfurmed fresh strawberry fruit. Surprisingly more primary than the bottle three years ago. (92 pts.)
• 2017 Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny Les Cabottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (12/4/2025)
  At Cédric Burtin. More structured and tannic compared to the Vosne which was riper but less extracted. Very different expression of '17 compared to the Vosne, more like an '18. (91 pts.)

Lunch at Auprès du Clocher
Fantastic 4 hour Sunday lunch that was unanimously the best meal of our trip for quality and value. Restaurant is a family run affair with Remi as the chef and his wife as front of house, and it is located right beside the grandfather’s butchery. Also was lucky enough to spot Pacalet having lunch at the next table who kindly offered us a glass of his wines.

• 2016 Marie-Courtin Champagne Presence - France, Champagne (13/4/2025)
  At Auprès du Clocher. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Blanc. Rich and not too austere unlike most Marie Courtins, superb salinity and drive. (92 pts.)
• 2017 Pierre Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (13/4/2025)
  At Auprès du Clocher. Reminded me of the 2012 that made me fall in love with white Burgundy. So old-school with concentration and weight that is rarely seen nowadays. Terrific purity of honeyed citrus fruit. (94 pts.)
• 2016 Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (13/4/2025)
  At Auprès du Clocher. Old-school earthy nose but with refinement and class, a complete wine with superb balance. Surprisingly approachable. (94 pts.)
• 2018 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (13/4/2025)
  At Auprès du Clocher. Quite strange with unripe stems and the dense, dark purple fruit of 2018. Disjointed today. (90 pts.)

Dinner at Bissoh

• 2022 Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (13/4/2025)
  At Bissoh. Natural with cloudy colour, seemed more like a Chenin with ripe pear and green apple fruit. (88 pts.)
• 2022 Jerome Galeyrand Marsannay Champs Perdrix - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay (13/4/2025)
  At Bissoh. Surprisingly classic but with some astringency that I find in CdN whites. (90 pts.)

[Scott_Brunson]

Bravo
We’re on the plane in 2 1/2 weeks.

[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Duroché
Visited one of my favourite domaines after meeting Pierre and Marianne at the last two POB Hong Kong events. One of the most aesthetic and immaculate wineries that we have seen, and we tasted through the 2023 Bourgogne Blanc, Gevrey village, LSJ, 2022 Gevrey village and the 2019 Gevrey en Vosne.
I have been buying these since the ‘16/17 vintage and these wines have been getting better and better every vintage. The wines always have a purity and precision while retaining the transparency and honesty of the Gevrey terroir. Interestingly only the larger production cuvees (Gevrey village and Champs) see new oak but the rest do not. They are also expanding their production with some Vosne plots from Marianne’s side of the family and some purchased grapes from Gevrey plots such as Combes Aux Moines, Chambertin and Chapelle-Chambertin. The smaller cuvees such as Griotte and Cazetiers (1/3) are also destemmed by hand. The surprise of the tasting was the 2019 Gevrey en Vosne, with only 4 barrels made from vines planted in 1934.

• 2023 Domaine Duroché Chardonnay Bourgogne Côte d’Or - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Côte d’Or (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. A mix of tropical and green apple fruit, good freshness.
• 2023 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 3 hectares, one of the few cuvees that sees new oak. Elegant dark fruit but quite reserved today.
• 2023 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Wonderfully refined and perfumed, with deeper structure than the village. Fantastic stuffing.
• 2022 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (13/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Clearly from a warmer vintage with more sweetness and denser fruit, similar to the 2020 that I tried previously.
• 2019 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin En Vosne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Wow from a plot that I’ve never heard of. First vintage was 2016, vines from 1934 and only 4 barrels made. Incredibly silky dark red fruit with some spice, beautiful salinity and a superb finish.
  
  
  

Lunch at Castel de Très Girard

• 2018 Cecile Tremblay Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. Most approachable out of three Tremblays that we tried on this trip. Fresh, slightly sweet and spicy red berry fruit that was more Vosne than NSG. I think Tremblays are just about worth the restaurant pricing, but nowhere near the secondary market pricing. (93 pts.)
• 2022 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. Off the wine list at a good price but unfortunately this was nowhere near ready with a wall of tannic blue fruit.
• 2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. This blew the Roumier '22 Cras and the '18 Tremblay NSG Murgers alongside out of the water today. Explosive floral nose with some earthy Gevrey notes, very pretty red fruit on the palate. Incredibly silky and saline for a Gevrey. Effortlessly balanced and good to go now. (95 pts.)

Lunch at Castel de Très Girard

• 2018 Cecile Tremblay Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. Most approachable out of three Tremblays that we tried on this trip. Fresh, slightly sweet and spicy red berry fruit that was more Vosne than NSG. I think Tremblays are just about worth the restaurant pricing, but nowhere near the secondary market pricing. (93 pts.)
• 2022 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. Off the wine list at a good price but unfortunately this was nowhere near ready with a wall of tannic blue fruit.
• 2016 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru (14/4/2025)
  At Castel de Très Girard. This blew the Roumier '22 Cras and the '18 Tremblay NSG Murgers alongside out of the water today. Explosive floral nose with some earthy Gevrey notes, very pretty red fruit on the palate. Incredibly silky and saline for a Gevrey. Effortlessly balanced and good to go now. (95 pts.)

Domaine tasting at Lafarge
A superb visit with the lovely Eleonore at Lafarge, another one of my favourite Burgundy domaines. I love how this was still a tightly run family ship, with all members of the family working closely together (including the hens in the Clos du Château des Ducs vineyard that is right behind the estate; they get sent on holiday when the grapes flower because they eat up the grapes). The 2023 wines showed driven, precise red fruit that was relatively approachable (other than the Clos des Chenes which needed more time). While the wines showed the same DNA, there was a clear step up in each rung of the ladder. We also tasted some of the wines from their project in Beaujolais that were made in a Burgundian fashion. Uniformly high quality wines that have managed the recent warm vintages superbly, which is a testament to their dedication in the vineyards.

• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne-Aligoté Raisins Dorés - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From 88 year old vines, quite fresh and tropical in a manner that reminded me of the Duroche Bourgogne Blanc tasted the same morning.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Not the most complex Meursault but enjoyed this more than the 2020 that I had previously. Fresh and tropical, quite similar to the aligote from barrel.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exception - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Pinot Noir and Gamay co-planted in the same parcel. Fantastic freshness and couldn’t tell any Gamay influence.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Fantastic freshness and lift similar to the Passetoutgrain, from parcels just below the village appellation. Everything I want in a Bourgogne.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From plots closer to the main road. A step up from the Bourgogne, with a more serious fruit and acid profile of pretty dark red fruit.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Another step up from the normal village. A blend of Ez Echards, Les Pluchots, Les Grands Champs and La Gigotte. Superb concentration and prettiness of red fruit for a village.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Aigrots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Red-fruited but coarser tannins than the Volnays.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Open-knit red fruit, very pretty albeit with less structure than the other 1ers. From a plot right beside Taillepieds, with more iron and red soil.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Backward and unready, immense structure.
• 2023 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos du Château des Ducs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 100% destemmed by hand, a historical practice only restarted in 2016. Usually the earliest to be harvested, superb purity and energy to the red fruit. Very complete.
  
  

Domaine tasting at Jacques Carillon
I only scheduled one white visit (despite my love for whites) as a friend only drank reds, and I was lucky enough that my favourite white domaine accepted our request. Jacques said that the 2023s were just bottled a week before and might be in an awkward phase, but I found the wines to be crystalline and precise as usual. Jacques also shared my preference for cooler, underrated white vintages like 2007 and 2011 which have the potential to age because of their acidity. Jacques also shared that he hasn’t been to Asia but would be interested to visit, and is waiting for a call from their importer to do so. Such a shame that his wines are so difficult to find, I try to snap up any that I see.

• 2023 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Good concentration for a village, a little awkward as it was bottled one week ago but have no doubt that this will be a winner as usual.
• 2023 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Most tropical and open-knit of the 1er crus today.
• 2023 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Profile was between Champs Canet and Referts, some tropical notes at the start but the minerality kicked in from the midpalate onwards.
• 2023 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Almost white in colour, so crisp, crystalline and saline.
• 2024 Domaine Jacques Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (14/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Barrel sample but you could tell that this will be a special wine. So much precision despite its heft, an iron fist in a velvet glove sort of wine that I normally associate more with reds.

[melvinyeo]

Fried Chicken at La Dilettante

• 2018 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (14/4/2025)
  With fried chicken at La Dilettante. Rounder and more tropical than the 2022, but with the Roulot is Roulot stony orchard fruit. Agree this won’t be the longest lived but pleasurable now. (93 pts.)
  
  

Dinner at La Maison du Colombier

• 2021 Emmanuel Rouget Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (14/4/2025)
  At La Maison du Colombier. Wild, stemmy strawberry on the nose and the palate; thankfully this was a welcome change from the high-octane, alcoholic 2020 that I had a couple of weeks back. A little thin but for 70 euros off the wine list this was a no brainer. (91 pts.)

Domaine tasting at Bize
Chisa was unfortunately ill so Hugo hosted us for a very entertaining and charming visit. Hugo recently rejoined the domaine after travelling around the world, including South America where he picked up some Spanish. He did his first internship at Gouges before going to wine school, but mentioned that he preferred to learn through experience. The domaine has made refinements in recent years to make wines in a more approachable manner, such as continuing Chisa’s biodynamic practices, as well as reducing the number of pigeages and increasing the use of pumpovers. He also mentioned that now the reds and whites are under the same winemaker who is a friend of the previous white winemaker (who left to start his domaine), while the previous red winemaker manages the vineyards now. We tasted through the 2022 SLB village red and white, and a vertical of SLB Aux Vergelesses.

• 2022 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Tropical and fresh, no-frills white.
• 2022 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (12/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Primary red fruit but made in a fruit-forward, approachable style. Only 70-80% stems due to the large crop.
• 2022 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Agree that this was a step up from the SLB village, vibrant and energetic red berries without being candied.
• 2020 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Clearly from a warm vintage like 2022 with candied fruit, but had darker blueberry fruit.
• 2018 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Well-integrated and no sign of warm vintage, stem inclusion definitely helped to retain freshness here. The best of the vertical.
• 2017 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Lacked structure and seemed a little advanced with soy notes. Off bottle?
• 2016 Simon Bize Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Lost 70-80% of the crop due to frost, but this was showing well with a perfumed nose and classic fruit profile. At peak.

Lunch at Aux Terrasses Tournus

• 2017 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (15/4/2025)
  At Aux Terrasses. Much better than the '14 that we tried on our first night. Textbook Raveneau salinity combined with roundness, classy seamless texture at the forefront rather than acidity. Superb balance. (94 pts.)
• 2018 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (15/4/2025)
  At Aux Terrasses. Slightly reticent at first but developed charming, silky dark red fruit with air. Agree with the previous note that this was well-managed for the warm vintage but sweetness and ripeness were evident from the midpalate onwards. (93 pts.)
  
  

[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Texier
In terms of content and candour, this was undoubtedly the best visit of the trip. Eric shared that he learnt the most from Monseiur Dodin about vineyard management in Macon, and said that vineyard work was much more important than winemaking which should be kept simple. I also completely agree with his approach towards northern Rhone syrahs, the best ones have whole cluster without punching down. He said that for single varietals, stems help to retain a lot of terroir information. Punching down was also only possible with destemming. He is also not dogmatic about sulphur, he will decide whether to add sulphur at bottling one summer at the harvest based on how the wines are behaving.
With climate change, it is becoming increasingly difficult to control the alcohol in places like Hermitage which can climb to above 16% without additional intervention. The harvest season also tends to run faster, increasing the pressure to pick quickly as the alcohol levels rise quickly. His preference has been to find cooler areas with granite soils to make low-alcohol wines. 2024 was a classic year similar to 2011; the grapes had some mildew but were clean, unlike 2021 which saw botrytis. 2023 was warm but balanced; 2022 was a drought vintage that saw high temperatures by end-May, but the exhausted vines were saved by rains near harvest time. He compared '22 to '09, while '10 was more like '85 which he thinks is one of the best ever vintages. Other than the usual big hitters, he listed some other lesser-known growers that made classic Syrahs such as Roure, Jean Marsanne, and Cordelux. Unfortunately he also shared that 2025 will be his last harvest, and he will only be doing a little bit of Cote-Rotie going forward.

• 2024 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Younger vines made from clones, grown on 40 year old granite more commonly found in St Joseph and Cornas. Fresh and approachable with a more lifted nose than the VV.
• 2024 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Saint-Julien-en-Saint-Alban (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 50-50 Syrah and Serin. More acidity than the younger vines as this is from limestone, warmer vintages have benefitted this site as it was 12.5% in 2022 compared to 14-15% seen in other appellations. More tannic and reserved today.
• 2023 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône-Brézème Vieille Serine Domaine de Pergaud - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône-Brézème (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Serine from 90 year old vines, spends 3 years in barrel before bottling. Quite a warm site with a unique terroir as it is quite rare to find Syrah on limestone. Most potential out of the wines tasted, immense concentration and structure that can compete against wines from more heralded appellations.

We also tasted the '23 Le Clos Ardèche but I can’t find any record of the wine on the internet so I’ll park it here. Eric said that the grapes in this plot was only recently verified to be Syrah, from granite soils similar to Cornas. First made in 2009, the vines from this vineyard have been grafted by others as it is resistant to drought. Second favourite for me behind the '23 Brezeme VV.

• 2022 Eric Texier Côtes du Rhône Chat Fou - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Sees no new oak, field blend of Grenache, Cinsault and white varieties like Clairette. Made in a crunchy red fruit, easygoing way like Gamay.

• 2021 Eric Texier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (15/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Eric thinks that CdP has the best terroir for whites in the whole of Rhone, even more so than Hermitage. He has been lowering the percentage of Roussane and Grenache Blanc in the blend as it is difficult to control their alcohol level with climate change (can hit 17% when fully ripe). The '21 was picked relatively late and it reminded him of '04. Tasted this wine previously and my high expectations were not disappointed, incredibly textural with a serious depth. Lovely freshness and acidity.
  
  
  
  
  Dinner at L’Âme Soeur

• 2016 Jean-Claude Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (15/4/2025)
  At L’Âme Soeur. Not as magical as the '15 BBM that I had at the same restaurant last year, but better than the '16 BBM that another table generously offered us. Had the weight of a GC but not quite the depth, unfortunately rather one-dimensional with a prominent spearmint note as usual. (92 pts.)

Lunch at Les Adrets

• 2001 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (16/4/2025)
  At Les Adrets. Signature smoky, slightly feral Jamet nose. Wonderful purity of dark red fruit; more elegance but less density than the wonderful '98, '99s that I’ve had previously. (94 pts.)

[melvinyeo]

Dinner at La Sommelière
Up there with the best meals of the trip. Superb tiny restaurant which I wanted to visit last year but was booked out, learnt my mistake and booked ahead of time this time around. @choco_lasommeliere Shoko and her husband chef decided to turn the restaurant into a more casual bistro style restaurant as they are planning to move back to Japan soon, so I would highly recommend everyone to visit them in Lyon while you can. All the dishes were on point, but the desserts were some of the best in my life. And to top it off, all three wines were absolutely outstanding.

• NV Guillaume Selosse Champagne Largillier Extra Brut - France, Champagne (16/4/2025)
  At La Sommeliere. Didn’t understand the bottle that I had last year but this was on fire. Oxidative but superb acidity and freshness, layered red fruit with some spice on the palate. Beautiful champagne. (95 pts.)
• 2020 Lamy-Caillat Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (16/4/2025)
  At La Sommeliere. Superb texture and concentration, unbelievable that this was a Bourgogne blanc. Wonderful persistence. (93 pts.)
• 2014 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru (16/4/2025)
  At La Sommeliere. Nose was up and down but the palate was in tip-top shape throughout the night. Sometimes the Dujac spice can be overbearing but this was subtle and caressing. Pure, driven dark red fruit with a velvety texture. So complete. (95 pts.)

[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Levet
A very homely visit with Agnes Levet, one of the most traditional Cote Rotie producers. They try to do whole bunch if possible, with pumpovers rather than pigeages. They are racked into 600l barrels three weeks after press with 20% new oak before spending another year in large 3000l foudres, so wines are released two years after harvest.

• 2023 Bernard Levet Condrieu - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Started making some whites in 2019 from rented vineyards, only 1500 bottles produced. Pretty and floral aromatics, not lacking in acidity.
• 2022 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie Améthyste - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Warm vintage so was harvested in end-August rather than in September. Partially destemmed. Approachable with supple but less refined tannins than the higher cuvees. Not too dense despite the warm vintage.
• 2022 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie Les Journaries / Maestria - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From mostly La Landonne (which gives higher maturity) and Cote Rozier, with some Cote Blonde. The Goldilocks wine between the Améthyste and Peroline; perfumed dark red fruit without entering the black territory; round and supple tannins.
• 2022 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie La Chavaroche / La Péroline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Dark fruit that was more on the blue/black spectrum without being over-extracted, but with immense structure that will take time to come around. The Chavaroche is more concentrated as it is all rock without soil, so they retain more heat.

Domaine tasting at Clape
A wonderful tasting with Olivier Clape who was incredibly engaging and down-to-earth. Tasting in the Clape cellar was really experiencing history in the flesh with huge old foudres and old bottles lying around. Olivier said that Cornas was an interesting appellation because expositions varied within the village, unlike Hermitage that had only one exposition. The domaine farms 9 hectares with 5.5 hectares in Cornas without any machines. All the wines are vinified in 1200l large foudres up to 50 years old and without seeing any new oak. Grapes are crushed with whole bunch before fermentation begins in tank, with pumping over and punch downs for 5-6 days and pigeage for 12 days before it is aged for two years in casks. The 2024 vintage saw a lot of rain during spring but had a dry summer, before some rain during harvest.

• 2024 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Olivier let us taste the components of the Cornas blend which is made from older vines ranging from 35 to 120 years old from different barrels. Reynard - south-facing, 1.2 hectares with the oldest vines at 120 years. Violet fruit with a little wildness, immediately reminded me of Allemand. Sabarottes - located in a small amphitheatre with rocky soils, good minerality and tension. Petit Cote and La Cote - 50-70 year old vines vinified together because of small yields in 2024, fleshier and sweeter fruit.
• 2024 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas Renaissance - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Olivier let us taste components of the Renaissance blend which is made from younger vines around 20-35 years from different barrels. Reynard young vines - lovely perfume with structure and concentration. Patou - fruit-forward and approachable.
• 2023 Domaine Auguste Clape Le Vin des Amis - France, Rhône, Vin de France (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Made from vines beside the river with less granite soil, released after one year of ageing in stainless steel. Very different from all the other wines, more easygoing like a Beaujolais.
• 2023 Domaine Auguste Clape Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Aged one year more than the Le Vin des Amis in concrete, more structure than the Vin des Amis but had more approachable red fruit than the Renaissance and Cornas. Quite pretty and can be drunk young.
• 2023 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas Renaissance - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine visit. Blended on the Monday before we visited, will be bottled in October 2025. Usual split of production is 2/3 Cornas, 1/3 Renaissance. Some barnyard with tannic dark red fruit. Needs a lot more time.
• 2023 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Blended on the Monday before we visited, will be bottled in October 2025. More concentration than the Renaissance with supple tannins, more forgiving than the Renaissance. Fantastic potential.
• 2022 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Bottled last November, Olivier said that 2022 was hot and dry with a small crop so no Renaissance was made. He compared the vintage to 2017 and 2003. Much darker and more concentrated than the 2023 with surmaturite notes.
• 2020 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas Renaissance - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Olivier said that 2020 wasn’t as dry as 2022 and was a relatively open vintage. Some plum and purple fruit, structure needs more time to resolve.
• 2020 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Similar structure to the Renaissance but with more savoury notes which I realised comes from old vines. Warm vintage managed very well.
• 2009 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Superb mix of floral and savoury aromas on the nose, well-integrated with complexity that comes with age.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Domaine tasting and dinner at Balthazar
Franck is one of the most thoughtful winemakers in northern Rhone and this year’s visit was just as educational as the last. A quick recap - I love Balthazar’s wines for their precision and clarity of red fruit, and I realised that the wines have been consistent for a long time after tasting a wonderfully fresh '04 Chaillot in London just before my visit. Wines are traditionally made with whole bunch, no new oak and aged in 600l demi-muid barrels. I found that the 2023s have put on structure since last year’s visit, while the 2024 showed impressive concentration for a difficult vintage. Interestingly, he mentioned that Covid had hampered his sense of smell which still has yet to fully recover even today, and he found 2021 to be an especially difficult vintage because he lost his sense of smell for a prolonged period of time (but the wines still turned out great). A wonderful visit topped off by him and his wife hosting a lovely home-cooked meal for us. Detailed notes below, I didn’t write notes for the 2024s as they were only showing sweet, primary fruit at the moment.

• 2024 Franck Balthazar St. Péray - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Reductive with good acidity, only one barrel in 2024.
• 2023 Franck Balthazar Cornas Cuvée Casimir Balthazar - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Fresh and red-fruited, but more closed and structured than last year.
• 2023 Franck Balthazar Cornas Juliette - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From young vines, no sulphite till bottling. Will be bottled later in September this year. I am a big fan of this cuvee for its accessibility and purity of red fruit.
• 2023 Franck Balthazar Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Silky red fruit beneath the structure, showing mostly tannins now compared to last year when it was more open. Will be a fantastic wine as usual, but leave it for a few years.
• 2023 Franck Balthazar Cornas Cuvée Hommage Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Special parcel made as a tribute to his father, vinified without sulphur but might see sulphur at bottling. Pretty, precise red fruit but with plenty of stuffing, more open for business than the Chaillot from the same vintage.
• 2022 Franck Balthazar Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (17/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Very silky red fruit that was accessible despite being bottled recently, catch this before it shuts down
• 2022 Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Embazées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (17/4/2025)
  A friend bought this for me from the Drouhin visit and I decided to open this with him at a dinner with Franck Balthazar since I thought it would be good to go. And so it proved, superb weight and concentration without losing freshness, fruit profile was citrus with some honey notes. A quintessential old-school white Burgundy. I think this is one of Drouhin’s most under-the-radar wines. (94 pts.)

[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Rousset
Isabelle was a lovely, jovial host who shared that Stephane is the tenth generation of the family producing wine, and the fourth to be selling by the bottle. They farm a total of 11 hectares of wine, with 3 hectares for whites, 0.5 hectares of St Joseph, and the rest of it being Crozes Crozes-Hermitage. Interestingly, I always thought that the terroir of Crozes to be flat and homogenous, but Isabelle shared that most of their vines are in the terraces instead of the valley of flat land. I visited this domaine because of JLL’s positive reviews, and would rank this as one of the top discoveries of the trip.

• 2023 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Milsence - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Cuvee named after their kids. 100% Marsanne from 45-50 year old vines. Floral and aromatic, quite ripe but with good acidity such that it reminded me of Chenin. Isabelle says that this is good with seafood or as an aperitif but I found this to be a more serious wine.

• 2022 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 85% Marsanne, 15% Roussane fermented 50% in stainless steel and 50% in oak barrels. Rich and creamy but with sufficient acidity from the mix of peach and citrus fruit (or cedrat as Isabelle says). The most balanced of the whites to me.

• 2022 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 100% Marsanne from 98 year old vines planted by Stephane’s grandfather, sees months of new oak. The most tropical fruit and unctuous texture of all the whites, lacked a little acidity for me.

• 2023 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From a small terrace vineyard planted on a mix of granite and calcium soils and with south-east exposition. Sees 25 days maceration and fermented 100% in stainless steel. Old-school Syrah but with forgiving tannins, can be drunk young.

• 2023 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Les Mejeans - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From a vineyard at the top of terrace, bottled last December. 50% in old oak, clearly more opaque with blacker fruit than the previous reds. Despite minimal new oak I thought it actually stood out the most in this cuvee.

• 2023 Domaine Rousset St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Planted on southwest facing vineyards with granite soil. Elevage completely in mostly older oak barrels for 18 months. Similar dark blue fruit to the Crozes-Hermitage single vineyards but had a much more elegant profile. Very refined and classy, no sign of heat at all. The unanimous favourite of the tasting.

• 2022 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudières - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Elevage of 12 months in mostly old oak barrels, grown on schiste soil of south exposure. Isabelle said that schiste retains water well which helps in warmer vintages. Warm vintage was evident here with darker fruit and more structured tannins, needs a lot more time.

• 2021 Domaine Rousset Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudières - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Fresher and more delicious than the 2022 with more classic savoury olive notes.
  

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Lunch at Le Cerisier

• 2013 Bernard Faurie Hermitage Greffieux-Bessards - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  At Le Cerisier. Beautiful showing today. Took some time to get going but eventually the old-school white pepper, savoury olive notes got into full flow. Despite the structure this was very silky and saline, with a very complete finish. More approachable than my bottle last year. (94 pts.)
  

  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

[melvinyeo]

Domaine tasting at Darnaud
Emmanuel hosted us for a fantastic visit as he let us taste some 2024s from barrel, the whole range of 2023s, and some 2022s/21s. He started his domaine in 2001 with just Crozes-Hermitage, but added the St Joseph vines from his father-in-law Bernard Faurie in 2010, and the Hermitage in 2021. He took over the Hermitage Blanc, Bessards and Greffieux while Bernard kept the Meal. A very educational visit as Emmanuel was passionate and generous with his knowledge and wines. I have only tasted the St Joseph before and was always impressed by how he handled warmer vintages. The range we tasted was no exception as Emmanuel said that he aims to make precise, clean and fresh wines.

• 2024 Emmanuel Darnaud St. Joseph La Dardouille - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Just racked the previous week. Emmanuel said that Dardouille means sunbath in the local dialect; the plot is exposed to sun but the granite soil helps to manage the heat. Located above Gonon’s Les Oliviers plot, few producers own this choice vineyard (Gonon, Chave, Courbis and Darnaud himself). 30% destemmed, still primary with candied fruit but no excessive alcohol.

• 2024 Emmanuel Darnaud Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Emmanuel let us taste the components of the Hermitage which is made with 100% stems. Greffieux - More pebbles so this had more mineral notes, round and supple tannins. Bessards - More granite soil which is similar to that of St Joseph, with rocks from massif central. Superb concentration and finesse at the same time, Emmanuel says that it is not possible to make good Hermitage without this plot.

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Mise en bouche - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine visit. From young vines and different parcels, made in a more approachable manner that gave some Gamay vibes. Good to go now.

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Vinified in 600l demi-muids, quite plush with more obvious vanilla notes and sweetness from the oak.

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From a single parcel, bottled at the end of January 2025. Some hail in 2023 that resulted in half the crop being lost but as the smaller yield (25hl) has resulted in a wine with greater concentration. Sweet cherry fruit with finesse, the best Crozes-Hermitage by far.

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud St. Joseph La Dardouille - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Very refined and approachable now (more so than the Crozes-Hermitage), another example of Emmanuel making fresh, balanced wines.

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Just bottled on Wednesday, still quite coiled and structured with the fruit hiding beneath the tannins. Massive wine that needs time to come around.

• 2022 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. A solaire wine that had purple fruit, traces of alcohol heat on the finish.

• 2022 Emmanuel Darnaud Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Similar purple fruit profile to the Au Fil du Temps but didn’t have the alcohol heat. Still a little too large-scaled for taste, but may be just too young at the moment.

• 2021 Emmanuel Darnaud Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. My favourite out of the Hermitages tasted. Much cooler profile with a wonderfully lifted nose similar to the 2013 Faurie, very seamless. Bought a bottle of this

• 2023 Emmanuel Darnaud St. Joseph Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. 100% Marsanne from the same La Dardouille parcel as the red on granite soil but with more water content. Excellent freshness for a Rhone white with some stony orchard fruit.

• 2021 Emmanuel Darnaud Hermitage Blanc - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Emmanuel kindly shared with us his unicorn Hermitage blanc. Typical Hermitage richness but with a wonderfully pale colour and terrific freshness and balance. Stylistically reminded me of Le Moine’s CDP whites.
  
  
  
  
  Domaine tasting at Gonon
  Gonon needs no introduction and Jean as always was the nicest possible host, both genuine and engaging. Was good to see that the part of the cellar was completed as it was still under construction last year, and it was interesting to taste the latest vintages after my 2013-2022 vertical a couple of weeks ago. Just a quick recap - I feel that Gonon’s wines reflect Jean’s personality, charming but with a serious edge (he can be very serious in the fields!). Winemaking is traditional with no new oak and whole bunch from selection massale, very interesting that he manages to get such silky and refined tannins even though he does pigeage.

• 2024 Pierre Gonon Chasselas - France, Rhône, Vin de France (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. From 90 year old vines, only two barrels made. Jean isn’t the biggest fan of this but I thought this vintage showed well, understated with fresh acidity.

• 2024 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Blanc Les Oliviers - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Quite floral with honeysuckle fruit, surprisingly lower acidity compared to the Chasselas.

• 2024 Pierre Gonon Ardèche Les Iles Feray - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Ardèche (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Just racked two weeks ago after winter; fleshy, appealing fruit that was too primary for me to assess.

• 2024 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Final blend was done recently during winter, most primary and least generous of the wines today

• 2023 Pierre Gonon Ardèche Les Iles Feray - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Ardèche (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Rounder, more supple tannins than the '24 that came before. Approachable now.

• 2023 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Jean said that there was a large heatwave at the end of August but the weather during the harvest was excellent. Put on more structure and became more serious compared to when I tasted it last year, I feel that this will turn out similarly to the 2018 which was excellent a couple of weeks ago.

• 2022 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. More balanced and freshness, less primary than the bottle tasted in Singapore a couple of weeks ago in the vertical.

• 2021 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. The most bell pepper notes out of all the wines today, high acidity.

• 2017 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. More development than the bottle I had in Singapore a couple of weeks ago, savoury dark fruit with balanced, refined tannins.

• 2016 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Jean said that this wine was reduced for a while but is more expressive now. Explosive nose that was similar to the '15 that I had two weeks ago, undoubtedly a knockout vintage for Gonon.

• 2023 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Blanc Les Oliviers - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Floral aromas with some cinnamon spice, honeysuckle and green apple fruit on the palate. Round with some traces of alcohol on the finish.

• 2017 Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Blanc Les Oliviers - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph (18/4/2025)
  Domaine tasting. Similar round texture to the '23 and '24 but with slightly higher acidity, better integrated overall.

change lower case to upper case

[melvinyeo]

Wines in Paris

• 2020 Elise Bougy Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (19/4/2025)
  Dinner at Chocho. 100% Chardonnay. Disgorged Dec 2023, zero dosage. Nose suggested that this would be an acid bomb but this was a superbly balanced champagne. Rich citrus fruit without being oxidative or losing energy, textural while being saline. Acidity most apparent on the finish. Just a shame that these are so hard to find. (94 pts.)
• 2021 Giovanni Canonica Langhe Nebbiolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC (19/4/2025)
  Off the list at Cave Pétillance. High-toned, slightly sweet red fruit; the cooler vintage helped with the elegance as this came in at 14.5% alcohol (!). Quite serious for a Langhe but pricing is a bit ambitious. (91 pts.)
• 2017 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (20/4/2025)
  At La Cagouille. Much prettier and readier than the other Roumiers tried on this trip, silky and concentrated dark red fruit that gained elegance with air. Superb finish for a village. (93 pts.)
  
  
  

[Rahsaan_M]

Sounds like a great trip, and exhaustive reporting! I agree that @Eric_Texier is a special visit, and we will miss his wines. Glad you had that chance.

[Jeremy_Holmes]

Thanks Melvin. A huge amount of work has gone into your report, much appreciated.

[Ramon_C]

Scanned and looks like a lot of fun!
Will read the details soon.

[melvinyeo]

Couldn’t agree more, but hopefully he will still find the time to contribute here!

Thanks @Jeremy_Holmes @Ramon_C, hope the report is useful! Was a bit of an effort to get everything together (organising the meals, visits without any trade contacts, being the driver and translator during the trip) but glad everything went smoothly.

[Matthew_King]

Melvin the Machine!

[Jozef.P]

@melvinyeo - now that’s funny - it was me who took your picture at Duroché with Pierre and Marianne . I was the guy with the 2 young kids running around.

Looks like you had a lovely trip!

[melvinyeo]

Incredible - hope to catch you next time I am in Europe for a proper meal. Your daughter definitely has a promising future in wine!