Recently got to visit the winery-- very cool place to have dinner if you’re ever visiting the region. Give their Neuburger a try if you see it-- surprisingly good. Agree with some of the comments that their style tends to be a bit austere, and very different from the other side of the Wachau (they literally are on the opposite side of the river from most of the “big” Wachau producers). Though I tend to love their wines (especially the Steiner Hund), they can seem a bit too angular and tart at times, and yeah, the older ones often have that aldehyde thing.
Will provide some notes. I do keep my eye out for them and buy an occasional bottle.
From May 2017–I was a bit underwhelmed with these, but to be fair, it was a lunch with Francois Audouze and they were in tough against a 79 Heidseick Diamante Bleu, 14 Kutch Chard and 1955 Chanson Chambolle Musigny
"1995 Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling
When I bought this about 18 months ago, I suspected it would be for this lunch. Shy-ish nose—kind of a water chestnut thing going on. Rather lithe and (surprisingly perhaps) gentle with a sweet kiss off of light gingerbread and Fuji apple. It glides nicely but maybe a touch light. Francois had us do some fun and taste back and forth between the Ries and the Champagne—on retasting the Champagne, a saline note is teased out and in turn the Riesling is made more active. Fascinating thing to do!
2004 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling
One of Lynn and Jon’s contributions, we have had variability in our last 3 bottles, with great, meh and good. This one was very good. More lively aroma, some mineral, some light pepper and binned apple. This too is a touch sweet and fat—only a little–but retains plenty of life and activity dans la bouche with lime and apple core and a backhit of lemon. Quite nice, I prefer this too, but acknowledge Francois’ observation that they both could have done with some more chilling----an area I’m still learning about."
From February 2015, the 04 Steiner Hund again (I’ve had a checkered history with this bottling—the above decent, a disappointing one and the scintillating performance below)
"2004 Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Riesling
Boy was this good. Like sniffing a mountain of flowers, with lavender, lilac and apple blossom in the lead. The aroma is captivating. Consumed with a delicious black cod in garlic aioli dish, the Riesling continued to blaze through with remarkable purity, adding some grapefruit zest to the mix and, while young and plenty kinetic, it is by no means a baby but already showing fine minerality/slate to go with the herbs, flowers, fruit. And it keeps echoing down your throat. This is really very good stuff."
And from 2014:
"1998 Nikolaihof Steinriesler Riesling
A terrific curiosity, Nikolaihof keeps this for 10 years before releasing, possibly in barrel all that time. Love the bouquet–it’s full of mystery. Tons of baking spices. It’s remarkably delicate and balanced. Only a hint of apple, hint of grapefruit, the cut and some pepper is at the side of the cheeks. This is a real treat and ultra-classy and that is accentuated, maybe at the slight cost of some flavour, later in the night. Many thanks to Amy for bringing this"
This thread prompted me to open a 2009 Steiner Hund. No formal note, but it was quite delicious. Kind of a citrus curd (lemon or grapefruit) predominated. Great mouthfeel, creamy, almost waxy - if it wasn’t for the acidity it sort of reminded me of Rhone whites. I didn’t pick up any marker or sharpie odors, but that might just be my nose.