I think the context is useful. He didn’t say when his last visit was, so it’s unclear whether it was after the wine regime changed.
I imagine he writes reviews of higher end restaurants he dines at, because he rightly thinks the information would be useful to subscribers. I didn’t know he did that, but that makes me more likely to subscribe to vinous, because the restaurants he reviews are ones I’d likely want to eat at.
At the end of the day, none of what you wrote matters at all. He received poor service and wrote about it. I find it a useful data point given I hadn’t been to the Modern since Courtney left. Overall the review was quite positive so I would likely be interested in dining there again anyways, but I’d likely bring my own wine anyways.