A little explainer video on the age-old art of Governo Winemaking, teasing out a few of the practises, and how they affect both the mechanics of fermentation, and in turn, the flavour profile of the final wine.
I use the Oro dei Sani Toscana Rosso 2016 as a reference point.
Hope you guys find the content useful. I always value feedback.
I have always thought that this category is just Tuscany’s attempt at getting some money from the hands of Ripasso/Appassimento fans. All the wines I’ve seen thus far carrying this designation have been quite entry level. I guess I have been wrong though if it is indeed an ”age-old” tradition.
Hey, I think that both can be true.
The practise is from the 14th century…so long before modern market forces that you’re mentioning…BUT that doesn’t mean that you’re wrong about the wines. This particular wine was not at all expensive…and it certainly was it about to score 95 points from Decanter.
But it was a well made wine, with a technique that interests me, because it challenges the notion that “interventionist” winemaking - with all the villainised additions to the process - is a modern invention. Humans have been trying to game the process since day one, although the “minimal intervention” movement would have us believe that wine was once that epically pure expression that was simply the product of “grapes” + “terroir”…
But yeah, I’m sure there are plenty shoddy governo style wines out there.
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