Last Saturday, we spent a long and fascinating afternoon at Domaine Pierre Guillemot in Savigny-les-Beaune. This was very much a “tip of the iceberg” visit for us since we are very new to Burgundy, and we were very grateful to Marshall Manning, a friend who distributes Kermit Lynch wines here in Portland, for arranging this opportunity. Pierre’s son Vincent spent the better part of a day with ys. He took us first to the cellar to taste, and then out to the family’s vineyards and winemaking facilities. He drove us up and down vineyard roads in his Renault SUV, walked us through Savigny-les-Beaune to show us the sites, and pointed out the best place to eat. After a day devoted to wine, the three of us settled into a sidewalk cafe for… beer.
But anyway, back to the wines.
2007 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Dessus-ls-Gollardes
70% Pinot Blanc, 30% Chardonnay
Very similar to the '05 we had at home a couple of weeks ago with the Mannings. Gravel and citrus on the nose, with great precision and tons of acid on the palate.
1986 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Dessus-ls-Gollardes
70% Pinot Blanc, 30% Chardonnay
The nose is much deeper and more gravelly than the '07, yet the wine is still remarkably fresh on the palate. No oxidation at all.
After the whites, we tasted a series of reds, each popped and poured. We were chatting with Vincent about the wines, and didn’t take any notes. From '07, we tried the Bourgogne, Les Grands Picotins, Savigny-les-Narbantons, Savigny-les-Jarrons, Savigny-Serpentiéres, and Corton.
The entire line-up had a similar profile that we came to appreciate and recognize with each bottle: similar red fruit and spice, and similar purity. The purity was the defining trait of these unspoofulated wines-- even we could appreciate that. Not one of the wines is approachable now, particularly straight from the bottle without benefit of air. The question I can’t answer, though, is when they’ll be ready to drink. Based on the other Guillemots we’ve had, which we can count on one hand, I’ll venture a guess that they need at least a decade.
My favorite was the Serpentiéres, so I was delighted when Vincent disappeared into the recesses of the cellar for a moment and emerged with a 1973 Domaine Pierre Guillemot Savigny-Serpentiéres. Tangential aside: although Vincent spoke English well, there were certain concepts, such as the passage of time, that he struggled with in English and we couldn’t begin to express in French. I think he opened the '73 (and the '86 blanc) to give us a sense for how he expected his '07s to evolve, but I have no idea if the vintages are even analogous.
The '73 had the same now familiar red fruit and spice nose, but more muted in character and joined by a deep, earthy perfume. Unlike the clamped-down palate on the '07, the '73 was pure silk in the mouth. Delicate, gently sweet, bright in its acidity, and still very much alive. Of course, it’s never left the cellar so it’s probably the best example of this wine that we’d ever have the opportunity to taste.
I mentioned this with regard to a couple of our other visits, but we were absolutely floored by the hospitality and generosity we encountered in France. I only hope we have the opportunity to return the favor in some way if Vincent Guillemot ever decides to visit the Willamette Valley.
