I’m in Alsace now, cycling the Route des Vins. FYI, there’s been travel disruptions due to the labor strikes - partial work stoppages, “faire grève”. They supposedly let you know the dates in advance. It was going to be 10th and 18th September, but today they added a day and upped the tactics: big trucks blocked traffic on the highway. We were glad to be on bikes! Hopefully, it won’t be a problem by October.
Although you’re not staying in Strasbourg, if you go there, we had a great dinner at L’Imaginaire in Schiltigheim. The “Inspiration Menu” chef’s surprise prix fixe was phenomenal; moderate portions of lighter fare, and a real bargain at €78. https://www.limaginaire.fr
Wines were French but not local, good but not great. I assume the chef wants the food to be the star.
Today, we had lunch at L’Auberge de l’Ill in Illhaeusern, the “Traditional Menu” prix fixe, a splurge at €195, but amazing - and a lot of rich food, so have a light breakfast. The service and whole experience i think was worth it, and I’m known as a cheapskate. Huge wine list, lots of Vins d’Alsace.
The upscale restaurants use large fancy wine glasses, but the more casual places use the traditional small glasses with a short, squat bowl filled to the brim. So you may get great local wines from producers that are never exported, but don’t complain about the glasses.
Thanks, Steve - I’ll save it for next time. We decided to make today our last day cycling in Alsace because its going to start raining heavily tomorrow. Most of the group escaped west on a train, I rode to Freiburg to hole up with friends here.
Yesterday we stayed in Eguisheim, super cute town, with about a dozen wineries or their tasting shops, about half with surname Beyer or Bauer. I got a dry muscat and the first Alsatian orange wine I’ve seen from Leon Bauer. Haven’t tried em yet.
Thanks Gavin for that excellent list. I am here now and making use of it. One note about the Eguisheim festival - I thought it was not worth the time, but I had certain expectations that were not aligned with reality. I was expecting a more professional vibe- a large number of vintners pouring their wines for tasting, but in reality it was a town fair event, with only about 8-10 wine booths, all selling wine for €3-€5 per glass (the 4oz taster you receive with your entry fee). There was also a number of food booths, and many of local shops are open (mainly cheese, wine, souvenirs, and some restaurants). Much more of a family day out than a wine professional event.
You’re so welcome, Jim. Obviously, huge fan of region so it’s a pleasure to hear this was of use.
Thanks for that comment. I’ll clarify in my post.
I was just in Alsace a couple weeks ago. Marcel Diess showed best for me. Hubert and Heidi, while quite natural, were really eye opening and creative with great hospitality. Thierry Schwartz crushed it so much we went twice. Lmk if you’re hitting HH or TS and I’ll drop them a note on your behalf.
I visited Albert-Setz this morning, and you’re spot on. He’s like a French Randall Graham. Had a wonderful 2 hour tasting and left wishing it was less of a financial barrier to become an importer. I’d bring in wines like his for the fun of it. Aged Sylvaner is not something I thought anyone would attempt.
I kid you not - I left and was googling over the evening how hard it would be. He told me, “my last importer from NYC still owes me money. If you go collect, I’ll give you the contract.”
So glad you got there. Aged Sylvaner will not be televised, but it’s awesome.
We have been importing the Albert Seltz wines into Australia for a decade. He is a real character and the wines are such great value. He is a true champion of Sylvaner and they age beautifully.
One place I can recommend NOT visiting is the Cave de Ribeauvillé. The counter was run by a bunch of unfocused kids who knew the product line (they’re a co-op making wine from 41 growers’ fruit) but the product was terrible. Easily the most antagonistic Pinot Noirs I have ever had. The whites, most under €10, even the cremants, might still be overpriced. The grand cru Pinot Gris was “old school Riesling” sweet. Had I seen the prices beforehand I would have been alerted, but I had one day left and thought they were a Caveaux of local vintners like they have in Beaujolais.
