I know this is a different producer than what you have, but I had a 1989 Eyrie Estate Chardonnay 4.5 years ago that was stunning.
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The Vin Soif has been really lovely recently. I was in DC/Viginia in April and it showed very well. Youthful and vibrant, and in a really good early window.
Last summer I really enjoyed the 2019 Durant Chardonnay, still in an energetic place. The 2018 is more tranquil and supple. Those would be a good side by side tasting to gauge what you enjoy, and both will drink well over a few days.
18 and 19 Whistling Ridge would also be an interesting side by side, and both wines show the quality of the vineyard already but I think they may show more after a few more years.
I would hold the Richardās for both 2019 and 2021, and I wouldnāt open the Psycho Killer bottling for another 4-5 years unless I really had an itch to see how it was developing.
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1989 and 1985 were both phenomenal years for Eyrie, some of my favorite bottles from the winery.
I opened a 2017 Walter Scott X-Novo last nightā¦needs a few more years for my palate. Very bright and acid driven tho, so I donāt regret it.
now you got me thinking about hosting a oregon wine dinner - got a lot of stuff from 15-17.
Most of the WS 15s Iāve had in the past year still have plenty of stuffing left @MChang
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Iāve had two '15 Goodfellow chards (Durant and Richardās) in the last year and both were incredible. I thought both were at their apogee but with several years to go before fading. These experiences made me realize I had way too little Goodfellow chardonnay aging so I bought another case of young GF chards to stash away earlier this year.
Iām holding some '16 X Novo and LCV for a 10 year tasting next year. Interested to see where they are and will post notes.
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I have a handful of Chards from 17 as well that Iād be happy to contribute (and come down to LA, unless SF works) as well. Date depending
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That would be a very cool dinner. Iām planning on getting down to catch a couple of Kings games next season. And happy to rummage around for some older wines (Goodfellow or otherwise).
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I think there are many variables that will impact the aging curve for Chardonnay in the Willamette Valley, but probably acid profile is the most important for me. The produces mentioned here, namely GoodFellow and Walter Scott, tend to have āappropriatelyā high levels of acid and can age beyond 5 years in bottle and offer a lot of focus, youth and tenacity. I would put Crowley in this same camp, and a few others albeit with shorter track records.
Many producers of Chardonnay (in Oregon) are less precise in the craft, picking sites too late and allowing for lazier acid profiles, and doughy, bland textures, falling into cooked, creamed, and/or nutty characters relatively quickly in their bottled lives. (āoverripenessā certainly a factor here)
As always, I think this conversation boils down to producer, intent, and success of vintage more than region with respect to expectations for aging, and of course the personal preference of aged characters.
My 2018 Chardonnay from the Coast Range Vineyard near McMinnville is electric stuff, and unbending-nearly as youthful as in its first year. My 2019 from Sojeau and Black Walnut are mature and not nearly as vibrant, probably should be consumed. I believe this has to do with the relative acid profilesāthe younger vines from both sites in '19 evolving much more rapidly with noticeably less vibrating characters.
We tried with @Andy_Steinman a '94 Thomas Chardonnay circa summer of 2016. A unicorn wine. Truly electric and one of the best white wines Iāve had from Oregon. Spicy, vibrant, full of life and focus at around 20 years in bottle. Apparently (according to JT) the wine was very reduced, and was unable to be racked due to placement in the cellar, later resting on the lees for some two years. Whatever magic happened between sulfides, oxygen, wood, lees and wine, produced an unbending, exquisite, powerful and graceful Chardonnay whose energy and youth was a revelation. Accidental? Repeatable? Delicious
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Got one last bottle of JTās 1994 Chard. Letās crack that sometime soon!
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Ageability of OR wines is something of a personal hobby and Iāve been trying various wineries, testing boundaries of both likely contenders and others. For chardonnays, Iāve recently tried a 2013 Drouhin Arthur and a 2016 Grochau. Both were past prime. In Grochauās defense, Iām very much enjoying a 6 pack of their 2010 Bjornson PN which is still a pleasure to drink.
Really interesting topic. My own meaningful experience only goes back 10-12 years like some others here - and all of the same producers that others have mentioned. And for many of them, Iāve enjoyed those those in the 7-10 year old range. As has been mentioned, I do think the style changes and the expression isnāt the same, less of the electric/nervy elements that are exhibited in the more āmodernā versions of Oregon chardonnay.
Super interesting to hear about things like the '94 Thomas that @Will_Hamilton and @Andy_Steinman mention. Iāve hoped to stumble on that for many years since learning of itās existence and never succeeded in finding that unicorn.
I do have a couple of '92 Eyrie Chardonnay that were purchased from the Herbfarm a few years ago. I look forward to seeing what those look like. Will have to give one a go soon.
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I just posted on the 2019 Richardās. Itās really youthful.
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Speaking of DIAM, I have been opening Edmunds St. John wines from 2008-2012 (so far) that are under DIAM 5, and they are progressing as I would expect from a good cork.
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For ageworthy Oregon Chardonnay, I would absolutely agree with Will Hamiltonās statement that aging and acidity go hand in hand. So does oxidation of juice at pressing, phenolic extraction at the press cycle, and the site producing the wines.
Morgen Long
Martin Woods
Patricia Green
Brickhouse
Lingua Franca
Walter Scott
Evening Land
Bethel Heights
Evesham Wood
Are wineries that I have had excellent wines from that I believe will age well. For Walter Scott, Evenin Land, Rickhouse, and Evesham Wood, I have had excellent wines of at least 8-10 years old.
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Thank you David, I neglected to post on your original TN but I appreciate that you drank it over several days and conveyed the progression in your post. That is incredibly helpful in showing what Willamette Valley wines true potential is. I see Whistling Ridge as a vineyard where the sweet spot is 10-20 years (15-25 for the Heritage @Shan_A ). As I watch the Chardonnays aging, especially once I dialed in some of the winemaking, 10 years seems like the right spot there as well.
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Last āwowā Oregon Chardonnay I had about six months ago was the '14 Evening Land Summum, given to me on site by Benjamin when he was still thereāaged in my basement (not perfect conditions) since around '17 or '18. I thought it would be tired and it was quite the opposite, lovely balance and precision, ātensileā structure with very fresh aromatics and power. My memory is that this was from wine aged in 100% new Stockinger puncheons. (I think it was also the first vintage when Raj and crew came back into the fold after Greg Raulstonās time thereāthe first post Isabelle vintage, low So2 use etc and some different techniques, but still from the older Chard at Seven Springs ). Regardless, I thought it would be tired and it was lively and wonderfulākept pushing and had more to give. (The '09 Evening Land La Source I had in 2021 was DOA, oxidized mush. I would blame the cork here to be fair, but who knows.)
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Had a '21 Morgen Long WV Chardonnay tonight at dinner and I think that wine will age on its acid for at least 10 years very nicely. Not unbalanced but a laser beam of a Chardonnay.
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2014 is probably the biggest surprise of my career for white wines. Warm growing season, but just amazing white wines. Great balance and acidity, classicly styled and have been aging extremely well. Had a 2014 Le Puits Sec that was just dynamite.
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if no one has opposition - iād love to carve out this discussion on sulfur/diam into a different thread. Itās very fascinating
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