2014 Christopher Tynan Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Old Vines Meleagris Gallopavo (USA, California, Napa Valley) Click to view 10 label images
Tasted by msuwright on 12/18/2018 & rated 98 points: This dense and classy wine is stunning, even if it hasn’t quite entered its drinking window. The depth and complexity of fruit are enjoyable, but the enveloping aromas, earthy mouthfeel, and bright finish are even more impressive. This is remarkable wine that offers New World flavor with Old World balance.
Dark red in color and medium in body, the wine offers intriguing aromas of blackberry, mulberry, leather, and gravel. The wine offers luscious notes of blueberry and black cherry, but it’s balanced out with brambly notes of espresso, cocoa powder, baking spices, and crushed rocks. 14.2% alcohol. Drink in 2020 or later, when it may approach perfect. If you can’t wait that long (like me), decant at least an hour, but it’s surprisingly ready.
I decided to open this after reading Antonio Galloni’s middling reviews of the Tynan wines. (He claims to write more in disappointment than anger, but he rates the '11-'15 Cabernets as 88-91, with '14 being the highest.) Of course, I am an amateur, who couldn’t reliably rate 500+ wines in 24 days to save my life (can anyone?), but I followed this particular wine closely for several hours - and AG is really, really wrong here, in at least two ways:
(1) He questions Tynan’s assertion that he makes “old-school leaning” Cabernets. Maybe AG spends all his time with the ascetic folks at Togni, Dunn, and Mayacamas, but the Tynan wine is old school for wineries that started in, um, the last 15 years. It has darkness, herbs, gravel, and low alcohol. No, it won’t clog your arteries with tannins or require you to wait until 2040 to realize it was made from grapes and not pencil lead, but this is a more savory wine than a Mondavi or Peter Michael (not to mention a Carter or Realm). In my mind, this is a slightly riper version of a Dominus or Larkmead, neither of which belong to the “new school.”
(2) Galloni says the wines are “dense and heavily extracted.” Dense, yes, but the extraction point is completely wrong, as least as to the 2014. Having the fruit out front can be fun (e.g., Bevan, Morlet) or obnoxious (e.g., Anthem, GKG), but this is not such a wine. The fruit is ripe, but there are no plummy, sugary, or pruny notes (i.e., characteristics of extraction). Instead, the dark fruit balances with the - very real - tannins and acidity. If this is more extracted than a wine from Tony Biagi (to pick a recent AG favorite), I’ll eat my shorts.
I apologize for the lengthy point / counterpoint here, but the AG review strikes me as the definition of absurd - two substantive (but wrong) points, no specific descriptions, and vague condescension all around (really, questioning the specific number of days of skin contact?). To be clear, I’ve never met Chris Tynan, and I wouldn’t know him if I ran into him on the street. Everyone seems to agree that he is a very nice guy, but - even if he is a complete tool - this wine deserves better than a backhanded dismissal. As AG suggests, maybe he just caught it on a bad day. That said, if this is a 91 point wine, I have a bridge to sell you.
To sum up: the 2014 is a beautiful and delicious Cabernet that has impeccable class and balance. Drink it now or drink it later, but it is an amazing wine, period. (216 views) Report issue, Add favorite