Now you know how we Euros feel everytime these threads pop up 
The Maffini Fiano is nice, though.
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I still don’t know why US restaurants need to mark up wine 3x and sometimes even 4x when European restaurants, as well as here in Argentina, can make it work with prices just slightly over retail. It’s not like EU restaurants are making up the difference with higher food prices. I’m aware of the slim margins US restaurants work on but I can’t figure why that’s the case, especially when EU restaurants can pay their servers enough to live on without tips. As bad as that $200 bottle is in the US, it’s really 240 minimum with tip.
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this has been discussed here ad infinitum, but keep a few things in mind for marea specifically.
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super high rents in NYC and especially where Marea is located.
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“fancy” type places tend to charge more bc they can get away with it.
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offering =/= selling. (i’m ITB and i can show you a profound amount of wine that is offered for sale, but not ever sold). specifically in the case of restaurant wine business, the great majority of wine is marked up to achieve a potential and totally arbitrary COGS % margin. and cheaper wines tend to be marked up the most for other reasons.
i do wish i knew more about EU other other countries’ restaurant economics. for example, most euro countries provide healthcare whereas here in the states, that’s partially borne by the employer, so there’s an added labor cost. but i don’t know the comparitive breakdowns.
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I get it. I imported and distributed in NY, including to Marea.
As to what does or doesn’t sell, as I mentioned upthread, I used to import Anfosso and I think that 2017 must be sitting on the list since pre-covid days because no one knows what the heck it is. Price is about where it should have been at that time. If it was something that really improved with age, it would be marked higher like some of the others on the list that benefit from age.
This is what I am curious about. I’ve spent a lot of time in Paris where rents are also pretty high but somehow most lists are reasonable and it isn’t just because the wines are from France (ie, not imported.)
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that would play a significant part actually - the restaurant’s cost is lower than in the US. so they may be applying the same % markup but the end result is a lower absolute cost on the list.
No. Not really. There is definitely a premium for the importation but there’s more at play. I know ex cellar prices and see what the wines sell at retail and restos for throughout Europe. US typical markup at restos is 3x minimum and retail about 50%, as you know. Europe and here in Argentina resto wines sell just above retail price.
I’d ask the Somm about this one FIANO DI AVELLINO RISERVA, PIETRAMARA-ETICHETTA BIANCA I FAVATI. We drank a lot of Fiano on our trip to the Amalfi coast. Most were good to very good. The Tramonti Costa d’Amalfi mentioned up thread should also be a good option.
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Massa Derthona, Tiberio Pecorino, Tiberio Trebbiano
I used to import that. It’s fine but the main reason I imported San Francesco was for the seriously old-vine red made from tintore. In case anyone is interested in this, it’s a fairly tannic beast when young and ages nicely. I would probably take the Maffini over the Tramonti. Retail on the white is sub $30 so it’s no value on the list.
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NIMBYism has pernicious effects, touching every aspect of NYC’s economy.
OK, so here’s my after-action report.
We ordered the 2021 Corte Mainente Soave Vigne del Tenda from the by the glass list, then followed up with a bottle of the 2021 Benanti Contrada Cavaliere Etna Bianco. (This last is a step up from Benanti’s base level cuvee, they also had the 2018 Pietramarina which is the highest cuvee but I didn’t order because the markup seemed crazy).
The Soave was very nice – distinctive with a good combination of rounded fruit and depth of flavor and very solid acidity. By distinctive I mean it didn’t taste like any other wine region which is one thing I want from an Italian white. With that said, it had a sort of sweet-sour bruised apple quality to the flavors on the palate which I didn’t love…I didn’t dislike it either but it read as a bit rustic to me. Not to say I didn’t enjoy it, I enjoyed it plenty especially if I could have gotten it for the actual (low) retail price of this wine, but it didn’t blow me away.
The Benanti was another matter. At first it had a bit of reduction and was served a little warm, but after it opened up I found it really fascinating and one of the most distinctive and interesting whites I’ve had in a while. It was pure and transparent almost to a fault – neither the nose or the palate presented very intense flavors. But the texture was incredibly interesting. It had a very clean, pure quality with a super appetizing acidity, but then underneath that was a very dense, almost rich quality on the palate. Almost a Marsanne-like richness and intensity but completely without any alcoholic or heavy qualities or intrusively sweet “luxe” flavor to it. It was extremely drinkable and “more-ish” but at the same time had way more presence and depth than a light crisp summer type wine. DC has some excellent Italian wine shops and I’m going to seek out more of this.
However, I have to say the major disappoiintment of the lunch was Marea itself. Not that anything was bad – the service was good and the food was all good to very good. But there was nothing we ordered that had the kind of excellent / memorable quality level you’d want for a restaurant of this price and reputation. It was sort of generically very good seafood which is fine but I’d want and expect more. I guess you pay a price for eating in the heart of Midtown across the street from Central Park. Anyway, probably won’t return and will seek out a better QPR restaurant for my next fancy-ish NYC meal.
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Thanks for the notes.
I usually just get apps and pasta.
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Sorry I am slow to the party here.
Glad you got the Benanti though. I didn’t see Contrada Cavaliere, but Benanti is benchmark Carricante.
If you get another run at Timorasso, Vigneti Massa is a benchmark there. The wines carry they acidity, but they tend to be pretty full bodied for a white.
Also, I want to second Tiberio’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, or anything they make for that matter. They also make a top tier Trebbiano called Fonte Canale. Significantly more expensive, but an excellent wine and also age worthy.
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