A week of Lovely Wines (Bojos, Burgs, Bubbles)

A lot of great wines seemed to pass my lips this past week, something I am quite thankful for. Almost every night seemed to bring another lovely bottle and meal, it was just one of those weeks where everything went smoothly. Here are a few notes…

First, the Beaujolais:
-2008 Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees Vieilles Vignes L’Ancien Beaujolais
When I first had this late last year, it was tight tight tight. I even did a comparison tasting with the 2007 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Cuvee Traditionelle Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes in October and it was giving nothing on the palate. Lately, however, it’s been coming around and smoothing out, and this night was no different. Gorgeous aromas of crisp cherries with a lush, plush mouthfeel that trailed off into a tart background, leaving your mouth refreshed and ready for more, with a lovely, perfumy memory of what was.

-2005 Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Cotes de Py Vieilles Vignes
I jumped when I saw this on the list at a restaurant for $60. A slightly-aged Bojo? Who ever sees that in NYC? This was a no-brainer, and it rewarded us with gorgeous funky yet snappy cherry and mineral, stony and slightly bloody aromas, almost a blend of aged Burgundy and aged Rhone. On the palate it was velvety yet tart, a lovely balance of the two, with a long mouth-watering finish. I had the restaurant place the bottle in a cool water pitcher, which helped the wine settle as it breathed. It also went great with our beef tongue app and my porchetta main.

Now the Burgs:
-2001 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche
Ooooh, what a lovely aroma, I can still recall it 5 days later. Funky cherries, leather, tons of sous-bois, with a stone fist of power that was hidden by a velvety glove of loving red fruits, ending in a long, haunting finish. I decanted this for a good 2 hours in a bottle-shaped decanter to let it breathe slowly, and boy were we rewarded. I just wanted to do lines of this, it smelled so good. Tasting it was almost, but not quite, a let-down after the amazing aromas, but luckily it was as good in the mouth as on the nose. The long finish just seemed to permeate all the nooks and crannies of my mouth and nose, clinging to them for dear life, reminding me how lovely they were. Sigh…

-1996 Comte Armand Clos des Epeneaux
Brought to 11 Madison for a dinner to commemorate the 12th anniversary of my father’s passing, this was another great bottle. These 1996 Epeneaux have been slowly coming around after being shut down for many years, and I was happy that this bottle decided to come out and play on this night. I did have it decanted (they put it in a duck decanter), but this only helped the wine. Gorgeous wild aromas of sous-bois and mushroomy, truffly cherries, with a core of minerals, but more rustic than the Clos de la Roche. The palate was velvety yet masculine, rustic yet elegant, if that makes sense. If not, who cares, it was delicious, with a long-lasting finish that went on and on and on. This was amazing with my braised veal cheek course.

Finally, the bubbles:
-NV Ganevat Oh! “La Combe Rotalier” Cremant du Jura
This is one of my house bubblies, a great value at $18 per. Flowery and lemony with crisp white fruit aromas and flavors, this actually deepens as it breathes, turning minerally with a hint of white truffles on a very tart frame. Quite nice to start any night off with.

-MV Champagne Krug (half-bottle)
OK, what’s not to like? Big and robust yet light on its feet, like a rhino dancing ballet, a core of minerally power that was wrapped in a blanket of nutty lemons. Compared to the Ganevat, this was a powerhouse, almost heavy but not quite.

-NV Champagne Moutard Rose
Moutard is a favorite of mine, so it’s not surprising that I reached for this one night. Lovely red berries and cream on the nose, with more emphasis on the berries than the cream. The mouthfeel is fruity at first but quickly segways into a nicely structured, long finish with lots of acidity. Just really well-made.

-NV Champagne Pouillon Brut Vigneron
This is a geekily-cool assemblage, Solera-style, of 50% various vintages (1997-2006) and 50% of the 2005 vintage. Surprisingly darker than you’d expect for a NV, it had the liveliness of youth with bright citrus and yeast notes leading to slightly oxydized aspects and a heavier mouthfeel. As it breathed, it became slightly smoky with honeyed apple notes and a long finish. Another great glass of Champagne to start off a lovely dinner at 11 Madison.
Cheers! [berserker.gif]

Very nice Michel. I’m anxious to try some Burgaud. Cremant du Jura, not a common household wine either, and another affordable eclectic French bubbly to add to the watch list.



The Burgaud was something special, and the Ganevat never fails to please, especially at $18 per.
Cheer! [berserker.gif]

Who imports the Ganevat? Haven’t had it yet…despite my efforts to drink all things bubbly…

I believe it was a Direct Import for Crush Wines in NYC. I know Veronica Castro had some sent to her in CA, so you might want to try to raid her cellar… [wink.gif]

May have to try that…we love sparkling wine here in Oakland…

LOVE the Ganevat!

Tony, I only have ONE more bottle of this left. But if you plan to be in SoCal before June-July (I believe that’s when the new release comes out… I called them), I’d be happy to share it with you.

In the meanwhile, am trying another Cremant du Jura today (Tissot) will let you know how it goes.


Nice notes and nice wines! The 01’ Rousseau Clos de la Roche is a lovely wine and I still have a few bottles left that I bought in 05’ for $69.99… Crazy!

Leah, it’s a lovely wine that’s really under-appreciated, even by Rousseau fans.

Thanks for the notes Michel.

I totally agree! The CLDR gets over shadowed by Rousseau’s top wines… The 2003 CLDR is stunning and was WOTN last year at a Burg dinner I attended…

When are we going to drink those? Pizza anyone? I’ll cook. flirtysmile

What time should I be there? [wink.gif]


Soon, I’m moving next week and when things slow down will drink some good Burgs…

I’ve only had this in tasting situations and I’m always interested to know what people think of it. Though it has been obviously very good when I’ve tried it, I have thought that it was quite overpriced for the quality. I understand that the style is fairly unique, but do you think it’s really worth as much as they normally charge? I wonder if I didn’t give it a fair shot by tasting it only in small samples. I will say that I’ve had 2 different vintage Krugs and they are the 2 best Champagnes, for my palate, that I’ve ever had, so it’s not that I don’t like the style.

Doug, agreed, it’s very expensive for what it is. However, I picked a few half bottles from a sale last year and have been very happy with the price.