A Week in Burgundy TN's, The White Album (Lafon, Coche, Raveneau, Guffens, Lamy, Keller, Ulysse Collin)

In news that will surprise people that know my palate: I drank a shocking amount of White Burgundy on my most recent trip :face_with_hand_over_mouth:. A lot of it was poured for me to taste (and, as ever, I am not a completist, so a lot of wines aren’t getting notes), but I also sought out a lot of White Burgundy. Who knew. That said, Champagne & a Riesling materialized too :smirk:

2013 Lafon Meursault Les Boucheres

White wine of the week! Ordered out at a dinner, decanted for an hour+, and then enjoyed for the next 90 minutes. Beautiful lemon curd richness combining with an appropriate amount of ‘dirty’ Meursault notes, i.e. pepper and course nuts. Finishing with wonderful minerality. This had the top class pleasure of continuinally shapeshifting each 30 minutes in the glass to emphasize a different nuance. The decant was key. A phenomenally complex & subtly bewitching wine on top of its obvious beauty.

2020 Coche Meursault

Such a gentle, creamy village masterwork. This followed the '13 Lafon. As someone who often feels unappreciative when I’m offered young PYCM or a young grand cru from somewhere, this wine is so, so easy to enjoy. This was even more subtle and creamy than a 2019 that @Andrew_K shared with me earlier this year at a lovely picnic. The '19 had a lot more gunflint & minerality. This '20 was less pronounced in those areas. Gorgeously subtle. Excellent with a gentle fish course.

2016 Lafon Meursault Genevrieres

This needed a much longer decant than it got. Drank later in the week with a more impatient group. Honestly, needed probably 3+ hours of air. Lots of potential, obvious class, but the experience was a bit lacking compared with the '13 I’d had a few days earlier. Tons of power in this wine.

2018 Coche-Dury Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres

Precision, precision, precision. A far cry from the creamy village. This is layered with minerals. One hour decant, 2 hour consumption. Released well, but frankly felt more like an unwrapping, such was all its layers of minerals. This is a serious wine. One feels serious when drinking it :face_with_hand_over_mouth:. Like trickling a stream of chard through a stone garden. This was a different dinner than the village, thankfully. Such a different tempo. Oak expression is much more apparent, but thankfully not oppressive. White Wine #2 of the weekend. God Bless restaurant lists in Meursault.

2004 Guffens Macon-Pierreclos

This was a rare treat. Particularly as it was served by Mr. Guffens :heart:. Very unusual wine. Rich, sweet notes. Tasted like the vintage had a decent amount of botrytis in the vineyard. The sort of wine which if blind, you’d maybe think a potential Sonoma Chard on the nose, but when put in the mouth, you’d think: ‘Nah, too classy & gentle in the mouth. If it were truly Cali it’d feel too sized up.’ (Please don’t @ me Cali Chard folks :rofl:). This had a funky eccentricity to it. The more I drank it, the more of a fan I became.

I think @Jeremy_Holmes has probably had some 20 yrs + Guffens. Curious for his thoughts.

2021 Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard

I am putting this in here as an example of a wine I have a hard time connecting with. Just too young and too much creamy oak still showing in a much different technique than the Coche Meursault. I know a lot of folks think these are very scrumptious young, but it’s a style that needs to settle for my palate. Perfectly nice wine, but not one that sings to me.

2015 Thomas Keller Abts Erde Riesling GG

(Chuckles). Turns out I had to travel to Burgundy (and specifically Pommard) for a German to bring me a Keller :sunglasses:. A new friend enjoyed hearing about my love of German riesling, but he was a little incredulous when I said I mostly only drink aged (15+ years) Spatlese and Auslese. Apparently, the more I mentioned that when people try to ‘impress’ me with various trocken or GG types, I often find the weight & the winemaking just too antithetical to the light, gorgeous fruit profiles I like from my favorites.

Turns out he was pocketing perhaps the best dry German wine being made today. This wine has a phenomenal kaffir lime nose, a clear-clean mid-palate and loads of limestone on the finish. Thankfully this bottle was showing very, very well. 5 more years would undoubtedly help it, but it tasted powerfully without being heavy. Just 12.5%. And a purity of unusual texture/flavor combination. A unique treasure.

Ulysses Collin Le Jardins

2016 Base. I really dug this wine. Has a wonderful salty frothiness, and then, true to form, a sort of rounded grassy richness in the mid-palate & composed finish. This tasted simultaneously hand-crafted & exotically funky. Pretty cool stuff. Very happy to try this for the first time. This uniqueness & an idiosyncratic tendency but still has a very high class feel.

Ulysses Collin Les Perrieres

2017 base. This had a touch of tight Salt on the front palate, but otherwise a grand-marque feel in its size and linear cleanness front-to-back. Would have preferred to be able to follow this for 2 hours rather than just 30 minutes at a picnic, as I think as it releases it would gain a ton. Probably 5 years of aging would help a lot, too. Basically, a wine with a lot more structure on display than the Jardin, but therefore in need of some more bottle prep to release it. More elegant, less exotic.

2014 Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Mont-Mains

This was shining. Hour decant and another hour+ to drink. Ultimately got to that perfect 2014 place of gorgeous, rounded fruit combined with chalk & minerals. Easy to tease Raveneau over the sulfites, but boy, when they sing, it feels like a beautiful balance of chalk and fruit. This was the very first wine I had when I got into Beaune, and it was like being greeted by a familiar friend. Frankly, this was even better than the '14 Butteaux I had last year.

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Not quite a hard day’s night, it seems, Mr. C.

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Nice work Nick. Haven’t had a 20+ year old Guffens. I want to though!

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Thanks for sharing! Did you dine in any restaurant in Beaune that you would wholeheartedly recommend?

Bissoh, Soufflot, and Caves Madeline were my favorite. Soufflot is in Meursault. Andrew Klug has a nice post in late June with a few more restaurants. Worth bookmarking :+1:

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Well done, Nick. Some really terrific wines. Hope you had a great trip!

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Thanks a bunch! Wasn’t aware of Bissoh, will definitely try to go next time. Seems like a very cool place.

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Nice job, Nick.

Did you get a chance to get out and explore any of the vineyards?

Re Keller: it always feels like heresy to drink anything but Burgundy in Burgundy. But I like your style. Abst slays!

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Oh, I did indeed. Will have a future post :+1:. I can’t manage a Matthew King Photojournalism thread… So it’s a gentle trickle of topics from this Guy :kissing_closed_eyes:

at this point in my life, white burgundy is my favorite wine category.

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And you have esteemed company, Nick :sunglasses:

Some of my favorite people in the community (with awesome palates) share your ranking. Some of us are still just ‘sometime’ members of White Burg fandom tho… Being over there helps :saluting_face:

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Thanks for the notes Nick, looks like you had a great time in Burgundy.

The 2020 Coche is a fabulous wine. As Coche is no longer made in a reductive style (since about 2009), to what do you attribute the gunflint elements? It’s always a little difficult to evaluate Coche village very precisely, as there are multiple bottlings. The four I’ve had this year showed differently, if consistently (for me); an extremely dense wine, open initially but then closed within an hour or so, like so many 2020s. Of the 4, the best one took a week to fully open, at which point it showed popcorn notes (in the absolute best way).

I’ve blinded and been blinded on this wine, and have called this (and have had it called) Meursault Perrieres; I think the richness is somewhat typical. I’m sadly down to only half a case of pre-2010 Jean-Marie wines, but it’s been a great ride. Though none have been served to me by Jean-Marie himself, a wonderful treat!

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Great insights on the Coche Village, Greg! I had no idea of the variability. I’m fairly inexperienced in Coche, so small sample size & bottle variability will only make the poetry of the wines that much more ethereal :slightly_smiling_face:

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I guess this is K P Keller?
Lovely wines and fine notes

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(Laughs & Laughs)

Claus, Thank you for spotting this :rofl:. Of course this is who I mean, and my parenting brain wrote something hilariously non-sequitor.

I personally think they need to grow some Riesling in the French Laundry gardens.

Perhaps @H_Wallace_Jr can consult?

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I know I post on and drink a whole bunch of stuff. But there’s white burg…and then there’s everything else :slight_smile:

Joyous notes, Nick, once again. I am with you on wanting to decant many of, if not all, white burgundies if given the chance to do so. Boucheres sounds magical—so hard to find wines from that plot. Haven’t had the 14 Montmains, but did get a chance to try the 14 La Foret a few years ago and it was terrific.

A bientot

Mike

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