In news that will surprise people that know my palate: I drank a shocking amount of White Burgundy on my most recent trip . A lot of it was poured for me to taste (and, as ever, I am not a completist, so a lot of wines aren’t getting notes), but I also sought out a lot of White Burgundy. Who knew. That said, Champagne & a Riesling materialized too
2013 Lafon Meursault Les Boucheres
White wine of the week! Ordered out at a dinner, decanted for an hour+, and then enjoyed for the next 90 minutes. Beautiful lemon curd richness combining with an appropriate amount of ‘dirty’ Meursault notes, i.e. pepper and course nuts. Finishing with wonderful minerality. This had the top class pleasure of continuinally shapeshifting each 30 minutes in the glass to emphasize a different nuance. The decant was key. A phenomenally complex & subtly bewitching wine on top of its obvious beauty.
2020 Coche Meursault
Such a gentle, creamy village masterwork. This followed the '13 Lafon. As someone who often feels unappreciative when I’m offered young PYCM or a young grand cru from somewhere, this wine is so, so easy to enjoy. This was even more subtle and creamy than a 2019 that @Andrew_K shared with me earlier this year at a lovely picnic. The '19 had a lot more gunflint & minerality. This '20 was less pronounced in those areas. Gorgeously subtle. Excellent with a gentle fish course.
2016 Lafon Meursault Genevrieres
This needed a much longer decant than it got. Drank later in the week with a more impatient group. Honestly, needed probably 3+ hours of air. Lots of potential, obvious class, but the experience was a bit lacking compared with the '13 I’d had a few days earlier. Tons of power in this wine.
2018 Coche-Dury Puligny Montrachet Les Enseigneres
Precision, precision, precision. A far cry from the creamy village. This is layered with minerals. One hour decant, 2 hour consumption. Released well, but frankly felt more like an unwrapping, such was all its layers of minerals. This is a serious wine. One feels serious when drinking it . Like trickling a stream of chard through a stone garden. This was a different dinner than the village, thankfully. Such a different tempo. Oak expression is much more apparent, but thankfully not oppressive. White Wine #2 of the weekend. God Bless restaurant lists in Meursault.
2004 Guffens Macon-Pierreclos
This was a rare treat. Particularly as it was served by Mr. Guffens . Very unusual wine. Rich, sweet notes. Tasted like the vintage had a decent amount of botrytis in the vineyard. The sort of wine which if blind, you’d maybe think a potential Sonoma Chard on the nose, but when put in the mouth, you’d think: ‘Nah, too classy & gentle in the mouth. If it were truly Cali it’d feel too sized up.’ (Please don’t @ me Cali Chard folks ). This had a funky eccentricity to it. The more I drank it, the more of a fan I became.
I think @Jeremy_Holmes has probably had some 20 yrs + Guffens. Curious for his thoughts.
2021 Lamy St. Aubin 1er Cru Derriere Chez Edouard
I am putting this in here as an example of a wine I have a hard time connecting with. Just too young and too much creamy oak still showing in a much different technique than the Coche Meursault. I know a lot of folks think these are very scrumptious young, but it’s a style that needs to settle for my palate. Perfectly nice wine, but not one that sings to me.
2015 Thomas Keller Abts Erde Riesling GG
(Chuckles). Turns out I had to travel to Burgundy (and specifically Pommard) for a German to bring me a Keller . A new friend enjoyed hearing about my love of German riesling, but he was a little incredulous when I said I mostly only drink aged (15+ years) Spatlese and Auslese. Apparently, the more I mentioned that when people try to ‘impress’ me with various trocken or GG types, I often find the weight & the winemaking just too antithetical to the light, gorgeous fruit profiles I like from my favorites.
Turns out he was pocketing perhaps the best dry German wine being made today. This wine has a phenomenal kaffir lime nose, a clear-clean mid-palate and loads of limestone on the finish. Thankfully this bottle was showing very, very well. 5 more years would undoubtedly help it, but it tasted powerfully without being heavy. Just 12.5%. And a purity of unusual texture/flavor combination. A unique treasure.
Ulysses Collin Le Jardins
2016 Base. I really dug this wine. Has a wonderful salty frothiness, and then, true to form, a sort of rounded grassy richness in the mid-palate & composed finish. This tasted simultaneously hand-crafted & exotically funky. Pretty cool stuff. Very happy to try this for the first time. This uniqueness & an idiosyncratic tendency but still has a very high class feel.
Ulysses Collin Les Perrieres
2017 base. This had a touch of tight Salt on the front palate, but otherwise a grand-marque feel in its size and linear cleanness front-to-back. Would have preferred to be able to follow this for 2 hours rather than just 30 minutes at a picnic, as I think as it releases it would gain a ton. Probably 5 years of aging would help a lot, too. Basically, a wine with a lot more structure on display than the Jardin, but therefore in need of some more bottle prep to release it. More elegant, less exotic.
2014 Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Mont-Mains
This was shining. Hour decant and another hour+ to drink. Ultimately got to that perfect 2014 place of gorgeous, rounded fruit combined with chalk & minerals. Easy to tease Raveneau over the sulfites, but boy, when they sing, it feels like a beautiful balance of chalk and fruit. This was the very first wine I had when I got into Beaune, and it was like being greeted by a familiar friend. Frankly, this was even better than the '14 Butteaux I had last year.