A Visit to Kapcsandy and Tasting

Back Story - I had a bottle of the 2006 Kapcsandy Cabernet Rose a few months back that seemed a little tired. I posted a note on the wine and received an email from Kapcsandy proprietor, Lou Kapcsandy, asking for my address to send a replacement bottle. I said it was not necessary but he insisted so I said that I go up to Napa from time to time and how about stopping in for a visit to see the property and pick the wine up. He said sure. That time came this Saturday.

With my brother in town we drove up to Yountville, picked up Trevor Sheehan and cruised over to Kapcsandy. Lou greeted us and showed us around the winery and into the vineyards before we headed back to their beautiful tasting room where some bottles were waiting for us. According to Lou, the property was the source for one of the main components of the older Beringer Reserve wines.

We started with the 2008 Kapcsandy Rose, which is a saignee Rose from the Cabernet, Merlot, Cab Franc that is harvest from their estate vineyard. Immediately this is much better than my experience with the 06. It is brighter, fresher and crisper. Grapefruit, strawberries, spice. It’s clean and silky. Very nice way to kick off the tasting and i believe this is under screw cap.

Next up we move on to a couple of 2005’s. But before I do, we were discussing various things with Lou and one of those was alcohol levels. His wines, for the most part are high 13’s and low 14’s and he is very proud of that. The wines are very tasty, full bodied and concentrated but not heavy and I applaud his wine making style. That being said his 07’s will be a little higher in alcohol…

Okay, 2005 Kapcsandy, Roberta’s Reserve. Heard terrific things about this mostly Merlot blend and I wasn’t disappointed. This was pretty darn good with great sweet fruit, cassis, mint, cocoa powder with bright acidity and smooth well integrated tannin. The acid levels keep this very lively across the palate and given the bright acid (no added Tartaric) this should age quite well. Terrific wine and I give it 93+/100. We moved on to the 2005 Kapcsandy, Estate Cuvee, which is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot, IIRC. Not quite as rich and captivating as the Roberta’s but very tasty. Firmer tannins with mocha, toast, cassis, violets and dark chocolate. Again, very nice acidity suggests this should age very well. 91+/100

Next up a couple of 2006’s. First, the 2006 Kapcsandy, Estate Cuvee, which was a nice step up from the 2005. A little more concentration, with rich fruit, mocha, cassis, cocoa powder, toast (or pain grille for a few of you), long finish with cherry fruit, lively acidity and a really cool slightly green note - varietal greenness as opposed to under ripe greenness. Firm tannins. Very nice wine 92+/100

The other 2006, was the 2006 Kapcsandy, Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, This wine was denser and firmer than the Estate Cuvee and I think Tanzer sums this one up pretty well when he describes the bitter chocolate, dark fruit, minerality. Firm tannins, nice concentration, great acidity. This is a terrific wine that will reward someone who wants to lay it down for 10+ years. 94+/100.

After these, Lou brought out a bottle of their 2007 Vino del Sol, which is a Merlot based “Port” made from the overripe berries that are sorted out at the sorting table. Fortified with brandy, this is indeed a very fine CA “Port”. My brother, who is a moderator on the For Love of Port website, wrote up some tasting notes on that site. I liked it. Raspberries, chocolate, peaches and a little bit of fig all in a nice package that isn’t heavy and cloying like many CA Port efforts. Nicely done. 89/100.

After that Lou handed me both the 07 and 08 Rose’s and gave my brother a bottle of the Port to take home and evaluate. We had a little last night at dinner and I have more to evaluate over the next few days.

A terrific visit, terrific wines that are well made, very tasty and built to age. Refreshing.

I opened a bottle of 2005 Kapcsándy Family Winery Estate Cuvée State Lane Vineyard on the 3rd July 2009, after an albariño tasting, to, hopefully, go with the meat course of chuletón. Since it was very young, I decanted it for over 2 hours before serving.

Honestly, it wasn’t my type of wine at all, but I can understand how those into big Napa cabernet blends can get into it. I certainly wouldn’t mind tasting this again when it has a lot more years on it.

I must say Lou was a great host and his wines were excellent across the board. Although a bit pricey, he is making some great stuff at all levels that will reward those with the patience to cellar them. Don’t get me wrong, they drink great now, but these beauties are meant to age.

Here is my TN on the “port” I posted at FTLOP.

2007 Kapcsandy Vino del Sol “State Lane Vineyard” port
This was the first vintage of this and is made from 100% Merlot grapes from the Kapcsandy Family Vineyard in Napa. It was picked at about 25 brix, fermented to about 10% ABV then fortified with brandy to reach about 18.1% ABV.

The color is similar to a basic tawny, a light ruby red. Very floral on the nose with lots of violets and raspberries. Oddly the palate has some peaches, which is not what I was expecting at all. Yet there is lots of chocolate, lingonberries, and some light and well integrated tannins. Many of these “ports” tend to come off very cloying,yet this one doesn’t. It is nicely balanced with good acidity, allowing the fruit to shine. A long finish full of peaches and red fruit rounds out a nice bottle. The back label says this will age “2010 - 2040”, while nice it doesn’t have the tannins to support that long of aging. I’d say the next 8-10 years would probably be best. 88 points.
08/23/09