People often say 1997 was the vintage where Cali producers jumped the shark towards riper more extracted wines. Here are two classics that run counter to that trend. 20 years on, drinking beautifully with room to go. Ric Forman continues to work his magic. Sadly, for me, Laurel Glen hasn’t been the same since Patrick Campbell left the helm.
1997 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon- USA, California, Napa Valley (9/2/2017)
This is simply a magnificent Cali Cab. Ric didn’t jump the shark with other producers in 1997, and as a result 20 years on this wine is aging gracefully. Full, layered aromatics of rich plum fruit, with menthol, tobacco and dried herbs. The palate is concentrated yet light on its feet. Classic Cab notes with layers upon layers of flavor. Still has grippy tannin to match the abundant, but not ripe, fruit. A classic Cali Cab. A half bottle preserved for night two was still going strong. Should hold for a decade+. (95 pts.)
1997 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain- USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain (8/31/2017)
A lovely old school California Cab made in a classic style. The nose is decidedly red fruited with dried sour cherry, cigar box and herbs. Medium weight on the palate with good intensity of flavor. Complex with lots of bell pepper, herbs and tobacco notes underpinning the red fruit. Well balanced with the structural elements aging in proportion. Tannins are softening but still have some grip. Lively acids, especially in the fresh finish. Should hold for a few more years at this level. A classic. (92 pts.)
I tecently had a 1997 Laurel Glen at the Union Square Cafe bar. It was beautiful and Old World.
Earlier this year, Winebid had a bunch of the 1996 for $45 each, which I easily grabbed.
The floating supply of these aged LG is very thin and sporadic. Snooze means lose.
Two excellent wines, Rich. The 1997 Forman was one of the most fruit-forward Forman’s that I have tried when it was released, but it has aged very gracefully and become very well-balanced.
Terrific wines, both. Yes, LG has missed Patrick. I think they have new owners, and in fact participated on Beserker Day, but I have not tried the wines. Has anyone? Any value there?
The new vintages seem in weak demand, selling as cheaply as $25 per bottle.
If you can still find pre-1998 bottles for less than $50 each, do not hesitate.
I would add , do not ignore the 2002,. I tasted that in barrel with Patrick and it was awesome. I found a couple bottles in retail that delivered on that promise but sadly, drnk 'em up already.
Helpful information. I didn’t know that Patrick made the wines up through 2002. I’d think the 2001 and 2002 would be terrific wines. Will keep an eye out.
Agreed, sound advice. I actively look to backfill Forman and Laurel Glen … among other Cali Cab classicists: Ridge MB, Togni, Montelena, Dunn HM, Heitz, Mayacamas, Diamond Creek, Mondavi, etc. But Forman and Laurel Glen tend to be undervalued.