A little stroll in the countryside

I’d like to share a little bit of the second part of this day, my last free friday afternoon of the year.

After work I drive toward Barate di Gaggiano, a small hamlet in the countryside southern of Milan.

I eat at “Antica Osteria Magenes”, they’ve been around for a lot of time and they’ve turned to fine dining in the last years, still mantaining a core offer of quintessential local dishes (brought to the highest level).

Various Amouse Bouche and home made grissini and bread, hay smoked butter.

This is “Magenes Style” ossobuco recreation.
The tube at a center is not a bone but it’s a sort of cracker (won’t go into many details) and there’s marrow inside. All around very thin slices of beef covered with a gremolada turned into sauce, saffron cream and veal jus.

Wine pairing: Pinot-Chevauchet Genereuse, Brut Nature from Moussy (90 % Meunier - 10 % Chard). I was quite impressed with the wine, the label made me think about a prety generic champagne but it was creamy with ripe fruit all around.

Saffron risotto, creamed without marrow. Technically the best executed risotto I’ve ever tasted.

Wine pairing: Cobue Monte Olivi 2020, a tocai (now Friulano) that’s made south of Lake Garda. Slightly aromatic, but it doesn’t overstay its welcome. Drinks pretty well.

Cotoletta alla Milanese, panko panure, Robuchon style purè and a light spicy (pimento?) sauce.

Wine pairing: Jakot, a friulano from Princic. Good amount of maceration, it’s a nice wine but I find that most oranges tend to converge to the same spot flavour wise and this is not different.

Moscovado ice cream freshly made, caramelized hazelnuts (Gentile Trilobata del piemonte) and dark chocolate on top.

Closure: De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Riserva Perpetua, didn’t pair with the ice cream but I’ve been wanting to try this for 2 years and a half. It doesn’t take you to the abyss like some other meditation wine, quite easy to drink considering the 16,5 % ABV. Nice salinity, acidity and i could definitely percieve pine needles, not the concentrated pine flavoured stuff but just pine needles, my grandfather had a strange gray pine tree in his yard and I used to pluvk the needles from that when I was a lid and that’s what the wine triggered.


After that, since we also have to nourish the mind, I drove 15 minutes and arrived to Morimondo Abbey, cistercian, completed at the end of XIII century.

Abbazia di Morimondo
02 9496 1919

I’ll just link here because I only took a couple of shitty photo. I was the only person in the church for the entire time (roughly 45 minutes) so I ventured behind the altar where you’re only allowed to go during guided tour, on saturdays. It’s not like they’ll do something horrible if they ever catch me trespassing :stuck_out_tongue:

3 minutes away from the abbey there’s Arioli dairy where they make the best Gorgonzola i’ve ever tasted, so I went there and grabbed 2 small pieces for a Boal Madeira pairing.


Fantastic! Thank you.

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I’m glad that you enjoyed :smiling_face:

Disclaimer, when you deal with dairies (or generally other kind of growers and farmers) in this area you don’t expect an hyper bucolic settings with small lakes and childs running around without shoes, stuff made in the most traditional and labour intensive way. If you want to see thet, I’d strongly suggest you go to the Alps.

But never the less you can find really good products!!

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That is not far off the route we took driving from Milano to La Morra a few years ago. Wish I would have known about it then :slight_smile:


Nobody cares about that area, or about Lomellina area that you can find moving south. It’s full of great stuff.

EDIT: I don’t like to “rate” art and make comparison better vs worse, but I want you to think about what churches you visited during your trip (if any, ofc) and then see what you missed just a small detour away on yur way to La Morra https://goo.gl/maps/hSsGmhwDrPWyTSAL8


Everything looks delicious.

Creamed without marrow?

Yes, when you “cream” (that’s the translation from google) a risotto you can use several ingredients, butter is the most common. You can also add bone marrow, not here.

Now I wonder if I’ve ever had one done with bone marrow. I don’t think so. What’s the effect?

Well it doesn’t have an “effect” but it adds to the flavour, make it more savory you could say.
The traditional milanese risotto (yellow risotto) recipe has marrow in it, so if you’ve went to respected traditional restaurants in Milan or the surrounding area there’s a good chance marrow was used. In my hometown there’s a place famous for the mushroom risotto (they only prepare it for sunday lunch) and they use bone marrow as well, generally you might not want to use it if you’re making a risotto with sausage (that already has animal fat) or if you’re aiming for a lighter summer risotto or a fish risotto.

This risotto also won a competition for the best risotto milanese in 2010, despite not using the marrow and they were open about that.

As always, there are no “secrets” for a great dish: top quality ingredients, dedication, skills. Everything else is a matter of style.

So the bone marrow is lighter than the butter and you want it on those?

I’ve phrased it wrong, will edit:

If you’re aiming for a lighter risotto you migh not want the marrow, since it’s an extra.

I don’t think you can even cream with only marrow, or maybe you can but never seen it.

The golden standard is butter + Parmigiano or similar cheese, and eventually marrow (which also isn’t that widely available)

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Got it! Thank you!

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Always a pleasure!