I’d like to share a little bit of the second part of this day, my last free friday afternoon of the year.
After work I drive toward Barate di Gaggiano, a small hamlet in the countryside southern of Milan.
I eat at “Antica Osteria Magenes”, they’ve been around for a lot of time and they’ve turned to fine dining in the last years, still mantaining a core offer of quintessential local dishes (brought to the highest level).
Various Amouse Bouche and home made grissini and bread, hay smoked butter.
This is “Magenes Style” ossobuco recreation.
The tube at a center is not a bone but it’s a sort of cracker (won’t go into many details) and there’s marrow inside. All around very thin slices of beef covered with a gremolada turned into sauce, saffron cream and veal jus.
Wine pairing: Pinot-Chevauchet Genereuse, Brut Nature from Moussy (90 % Meunier - 10 % Chard). I was quite impressed with the wine, the label made me think about a prety generic champagne but it was creamy with ripe fruit all around.
Saffron risotto, creamed without marrow. Technically the best executed risotto I’ve ever tasted.
Wine pairing: Cobue Monte Olivi 2020, a tocai (now Friulano) that’s made south of Lake Garda. Slightly aromatic, but it doesn’t overstay its welcome. Drinks pretty well.
Cotoletta alla Milanese, panko panure, Robuchon style purè and a light spicy (pimento?) sauce.
Wine pairing: Jakot, a friulano from Princic. Good amount of maceration, it’s a nice wine but I find that most oranges tend to converge to the same spot flavour wise and this is not different.
Moscovado ice cream freshly made, caramelized hazelnuts (Gentile Trilobata del piemonte) and dark chocolate on top.
Closure: De Bartoli Vecchio Samperi Riserva Perpetua, didn’t pair with the ice cream but I’ve been wanting to try this for 2 years and a half. It doesn’t take you to the abyss like some other meditation wine, quite easy to drink considering the 16,5 % ABV. Nice salinity, acidity and i could definitely percieve pine needles, not the concentrated pine flavoured stuff but just pine needles, my grandfather had a strange gray pine tree in his yard and I used to pluvk the needles from that when I was a lid and that’s what the wine triggered.