2019 Bedrock Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, Limerick Lane Vineyard ($42.00, 14.5%). You’ll never guess, the core is purple and the rims are a deep scarlet red, hey, it happens with wine. The scents drive into the nose, raspberry and blueberry fruit, menthol, milk chocolate and toffee, dried flowers, more impressive for its activity than the breadth of aromas. Medium-bodied and compact, wraps itself around an erect tannic spine. The fruit feels more juicy than sweet, sloshes, doesn’t quite avoid trailing off at the end. Minor flourishes of citrus, flowers, honey, and menthol, nothing stands out. Sort of stony. The pieces fall into place, however, this isn’t a big and bold style of Zinfandel. Personally, I’d prefer more of a brass finish looking to stretch into the horizon. That kind of thing. Consistent with initial impression December 2021.
2018 Bedrock Syrah, California regional blend ($20.00, 14.5%). Clarity obvious even while the core is a very dark purple, the rims broad and darkening to a magenta, rust red. Spicy nose, mud caked earth, whiff of olives, straightforward blackberry, blueberry scents, comes off as a neutral experience. Medium-bodied, moderate tannic grip, proceeds at a slow, measured pace. The same berry, cherry fruit has life and flies consistently enough start to finish. Grill smoke, leather, earth… The basic buckets, nothing jumps out at you with a “notice me!” sign on it. Totally absent flaws. Entirely unexciting. Grapes sourced from Hudson, Griffin’s Lair, Alder Springs, Weill, Shake Ridge Vineyards, etc. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2018 Stereophonic Wines San Luis Obispo County, Paso Robles, “Starblanket” ($25.00, 14.6%). Still emitting plenty of saturated purple and magenta, spotless which increases prettiness. Dense nose of substantial dark fruits, cinnamon stick, orange peel, pressed flowers, not finding much more, no flaws and oak seems proportionate. Full-bodied, despite the weight it possesses pleasing flow. The black currant, plum fruit not overly sweet, certainly concentrated, notes of strawberry at the end. Quite floral. Neutral oak, adds spice but that’s it for me. More orange citrus notes. This is a straightforward experience, consistently stays on message. So it’s up to you whether or not you want a big if balanced wine and to receive said message. 50% Petite Sirah, 50% Grenache. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2019 Early Mountain Virginia regional blend, “Rise” ($150.00, 14.5%). Very dark, vibrant core, the scarlet rims show the liquid’s clarity. You get layered black/blue fruit in the nose, clove spice, mocha, potpourri, smells of expensive oak, provides little sense of what it “is.” Medium-bodied, grainy tannin with a dray, tacky mouth feel. The oak is not as knit into all else as all else in knit into the oak. Blocks of dark fruits. More cinnamon to ginger spice. Very primary, makes it hard to tease it all out. Crazy price but I guess if you build it, they will come. 58% Merlot, 17% Petit Verdot, 15% Tannat, 10% Cabernet Franc.
2022 Lightwell Survey Virginia, Shenandoah Valley, “Dos Idiots” ($35.00, 13.9%). Plum red core, noticeable silt throughout, sort of orangish further out. Tart mixed berry scents, close to foxy, no grassy notes but some garden herbs, the more you sniff the more the Petit Manseng becomes dominant. Light-bodied, linear presentation, even split between acidity and tannin. Swirl of red berry, pineapple flavors, as the blend suggests a bit of this and that. Never shakes that foxy edge. It doesn’t cohere fully but maybe more unique for it. I’d have a second glass. 55% Cabernet Franc, 45% Petit Manseng.
NV Champagne Ullens Champagne, Lot 10 Brut ($64.99, 12.5%). A bright white dusting covers the surface, actively renewing bubbles. Average gold hue, nothing of real note. Sinewy nose, gives at the right moments, lemon zest, lightly honeyed then chalky, straightforward orchard fruit. Light to medium-bodied, gregarious fizz. The acidity gives it shape then leaves it alone. Same playlist as in the nose, a-okay with me. Flavors finish cleanly, texture persists well. Real easygoing. I drank it more than analyzed it. 80% Pinot Meunier, 20% Chardonnay (Disgorged 03 2024)
2023 Bénédicte & Stéphane Tissot Chardonnay, Jura, Arbois, “Patchwork” ($49.99, 13.5%). Grimy, layered gold color, glows underneath, gently washes out towards the rims. Mildly vinous nose, taut peach, apricot, yellow apple scents, orange pulp, oil slick, forms a pleasing “pregnant cloud” effect in the nostrils. Medium to full-bodied, attractively firm without leaning too hard on the acidity. Core of sweet naval orange, tangelo citrus. Fully ripened apricot, peach, pear fruit. Long finish. Not exceedingly complex. Yet very nice indeed.
2021 Alain Graillot Syrah, Rhône, Crozes Hermitage ($44.99, 13.0%). Buoyant violet core with heavy magenta rims, the clarity appears fine. Restrained nose, doles out measured portions of black olive, leather, graphite, tobacco ash followed on by blackberry, cherry scents which require time to open. Medium-bodied if, spreads thinly and the acidity accentuates this. Not especially tannic. The whole experience is very close to the nose and does not bear repeating. However, it is more floral here. Finish is semi-short, perhaps attributable to its relative youth.
2022 Domaines Ott Provence, Côtes de Provence, Château de Selle Rosé ($30.99, 13.5%). Very, very pale, hesitate to call it pink, more like yellow onion, brilliant shine, transparent. The nose is compact while giving, fresh raspberry, strawberry, pear scents, subtle chalk and mineral water accents, makes me think the nose is more transparent than the visuals. Medium to full-bodied, heavier than I expected based off the nose. Pleasant fruity mouth entry. Acidity shapes more than a more intentional sculpts. So it stays soft enough to nuzzle the pleasure node. Innocuously floral. No complexity, easy to drink and leaves you smiling, just why pay the price. 55% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 12% Mourvèdre, 3% Syrah. 375 ml bottle. (Composite Cork: Diam3)
2021 Terra Vita Vinum Chenin Blanc, Loire, Anjou, “Grandes Rogeries” ($89.99, 14.0%). Vibrant and bright gold, however, darker than one might expect, decent push into the rims. At first the nose smells like a big, old fart, thankfully blows off into honey and lemon reduction as well as ripe peach, apricot scents, not too tropical, suggests a sense of place. Medium-bodied, the acidity throws a big haymaker into your chin. Super spicy with cinnamon and cloved ham. Poached, if not condensed, peach, apricot, pear fruit. Consistent start to finish, no ups nor downs. Good wine, wouldn’t genuflect much further.
NV Alexandre Filaine Champagne, Cuvée Speciale Brut L.16 ($134.99, 12.0%). Solid depth to the yellow gold, not aged per se, average shine, few visible bubbles, nice enough as thee things go. Broad nose, leans into you, lemon custard, trace of sour oak then green apple and apricot pit, gets smokier when warmer, blunt dissolve. Medium to full-bodied, much is akin to the nose, not tight nor loose, still somehow feels close to immobile. The acidity has no qualms about coming at you, to the point you can’t outrun it. Succinct pear, pineapple, peach flavors, tart as heck. Minerally finish, helps the fizz last. Ends on a dime. 45% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Meunier. [Barrel fermented]
2018 Hubert Lignier Burgundy, Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes ($69.99, 13.5%). Plum red to opaque purple core, no problem with clarity. The nose needs air time but then shows ripe cherry, blackberry fruit, if floral scents can be called taut then this is it, grounded by leather and sous bois notes, seawater, more punch than hug. Medium-bodied, hard as nails with an obvious tannic skeleton. Uniform, dependable strawberry raspberry fruit. Shades of cinnamon spice and lemon peel. To my palate very young.
2022 Bruno Lupin Mondeuse, Savoie ($29.99, 12.0%). Lightly saturated violet-ruby, on the dark side, clean, full rims. Grapefruit swarms the nose and woe unto anything that gets in its way, minor cow pattie funk, linear plum, dark berry scents of no real note, mountain brush, did I say grapefruit? Light to medium-bodied, the tannin is too strong for the body but not to the point of distraction. Again, the centerpiece is grapefruit. Pebbles, stones and anything else that would break your teeth if you tried to chew it. A little floral. The red to blue berry fruit trails off past the mid-palate. This is a wine where the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Plus I really like grapefruit. (Composite Cork: Diam3)
2023 Paul Pillot Chardonnay, Burgundy, Chassagne-Montrachet, Clos Saint-Jean ($219.99, 13.0%). Light yellow straw hue, excellent shine, diminished rims. Borderline acrid nose, smoky, finely grained oak, lime zest, the orchard fruit scents overly focused to vanishing, coolly standoffish, assuming a product of its age, sure, hard to know where your hat will hang down the road. Medium-bodied and hard, the acidity deadens more than energizes. Surprisingly flat lemon, lime citrus. The oak creamier here. In turn the pear, apricot fruit remains subtle. To me this is one of those “reserve judgment” wines. Allowing for this, in this moment, don’t see the fuss.
2019 Georges Laval Champagne, Cumières, Premier Cru Brut Nature ($115.99, 12.0%). Medium gold, on the dull side, minimal visible pétillance. Dusty, dry nose, vinous and almost sandy, tangerine pith, apple skin, apricot pit, trace of honey with a more caramel flourish before it dissolves. Medium-bodied, quite acidic and taut. Tight fizz which does not broaden. Pretty much desiccating. Nuance of lemon to tangerine zest. Evanescent orchard fruit. Unforgiving and proud of it. 55% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier.
2020 Nervi (Conterno) Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Vino Spumonte di Qualità, “Jefferson” Rosato Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero ($93.99, 14.0%). Nicely bright white fizz on the pour, metallic orange hue with a pinkish tint, great shine. Rose petal, chalk, orange peel infused nose, ticklingly dusty, strawberry to peach scents, more relaxed than laconic nostril presence. Medium-bodied, coiled pétillance, the fizz lasts for a long time. Tart tangerine, lemon juice, not pith nor zest. Chalk, pebbles, mineral dust contribute to the basic dryness. The cherry, red berry fruit often fades into the background. Very good wine, not so great value. (Disgorged March 2025)
2023 Danilo Thomain 100% Petit Rouge, Valle d’Aosta, Enfer d’Arvier ($38.99, 14.5%). Filmy, opaque plum purple core, washed out magenta rims, moderate saturation. Reductive nose, serious farting and kind of mousey too, thick and ripe black fruits, leather, has a syrupy texture in your nostrils. Full-bodied, mix in the tannin and it’s a grinder across the palate. Forward tart cherry, plum fruit. Buried somewhere is white citrus. Darth earth, leather, it’s in the “brooding” vein. An off-center experience, nice to have once in awhile but that’s it. Needs a decanting.
2022 Cottanera Nerello Mascalese, Sicilia, Etna Rosso ($28.99, 14.5%). Crystal clear, transparent with high shine, a sort of scarlet red without much violet. Crunchy nose of strawberry, raspberry fruit, volcanic ash and just doused wood smoke, cleaner than I expected, fruit forward, crisp lift. Light-bodied, tannic and sappy at once, hugs the tongue tightly. Copious grapefruit citrus shaves off sweetness from the berry fruit. More of the usual stone and ash. Lurking greenness. Real tart finish. Nothing to complain about, balanced and tasty, just monochrome. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2020 Vallana Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Alto Piemonte, Colline Novaresi Spanna ($17.99, 13.0%). Clear cough syrup red with a vague wash of purple in the core, rims empty out, as is expected looks more advanced than it is. Strawberry jam and cherry pleasingly open the nose, pressed flowers, orange peel, mountain pine breeze, anise, gathers together enough basics to make a tasty, simple meal. In the mouth it’s close to full-bodied, attractive tannic grit helps it hug the tongue without too much drying. Vivid white citrus keeps the wattage up. The red fruit consistent while more of a general accompaniment. Good+ lift into a mouth perfume. Gets chewy at the end. Not the best vintage of the bottling but I’d still say that at under $20 it’s always worth trying. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2022 I Custodi Carricante, Sicilia, Etna Bianco, “Aedes” ($36.99, 12.5%). Soft luminescence to the flat, darkish golden color, pretty easy to guess it is unfiltered. Kind of flat nose too with lees, mixed citrus, something close to rubber, the apricot, peach scents slight with a poached patina, closed and not inviting. Medium to full-bodied, tight as a drum. The acidity blankets, no cut. Very lemon to grapefruit centric. Turns minerally when warmer. The pineapple, guava, kiwi, nectarine fruit has more thrust than flavor. Kind of ouchy.
2022 Rocca di Frassinello Tuscany, Maremma, “Le Sughere di Frassinello” ($18.99, 14.0%). Washed out purple core, more late sunset reds and oranges further out, nothing special visually about it. The nose needs to unwind and disappears abruptly, stemmy enough hard to register the cherry, raspberry fruit, dollops of orange peel and dried out leather, not much else. Medium-bodied, acidity a bit too much during the mouth entry, however, by the mid-plate the fruit gets to settle in. Much more leathery. Dill and marjoram. Short. There is a reason I don’t often buy “junior” Super Tuscans and this is a prime example. 50% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon.
2021 DGTX (Doniene Gorrondona) 100% Hondarrabi Beltza, Basque, Bizkaiko Txakolina, “Beltza” ($29.99, 12.5%). Core a deep, flat black as much as purple, looks like it is pushing the brick red rims away and that it has sat impassively in the glass for some time. Comes off with a texture of flattened veal in the nose, crushed plum and blackberry, belt leather, mountain scrub, palpable bell pepper, man of few words. Medium-bodied with a layering that is hard to ignore, you think someone is goign to take an x-ray of your tongue. Not particularly tannic no acidic while not flabby. Medium dry. Bell pepper rings forth here too. Can a wine be layered and taut at once? This might be. Slabs of black fruit. Savory in turn. Moves very slowly. Long finish. If I smoked cigars this would be a good complement. (Composite Cork)
