2001 Knoll Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Loibner Ried Loibenberg, Smaragd. Dark gold to orange hued liquid, has a nice glow to it, somewhat flat in terms of luster. The nose crackles with white pepper, grapefruit pith, snap pea, and pineapple, kumquat, passion fruit scents, gets oily and smoky as it warms, pungency lasts very well. Medium-bodied, nice muscular firmness to it even if the acidity isn’t particularly cutting. The tropical fruit very tart here, along with the herbaceousness there’s no lack of verve. Powerful oily smokiness again. Then something vaguely minty through the finish. Liked this a great deal on release and extremely pleased with how this bottle turned out. Great energy and flavor intensity.
2019 Stereophonic Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain, Mader Vineyard, “Untrue.” Blackish purple core which crosses into opacity, broad rims of dried blood red to brick red, good surface shine. Pungent nose that shows no signs of holding back, cedar, tobacco leaf, minerally dirt, camphor, the black currant, Italian plum fruit scents show the most restraint, the oak toast is definitely there but proportional, as the bottle opens turns more herbaceous. Full-bodied but manages it well, about as “silky” of a wine as this ilk might get. Not to say there isn’t ample tannin, tends to supplement the oak toast to give it a crisp, energetic feel. Here the fruit shades more to blueberry, blackberry as well as currant, sour twist to it. Mountain scrub, more of that poor minerally dirt, light mentholated lift. Did not find it changing appreciably after a good while open, steady as she goes. Should age a long time without issue while certainly approachable now. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2019 Big Basin Carignane, Cienega Valley, Wirz Vineyard, “Old Vine.” Bright and bouncy ruby-purple, dark and well-saturated, looks happy in the glass. Good bit of leather to the nose as well as barnyard mud and mushroom, snappy blueberry, cranberry, bing cherry scents, lively but expected white citrus in the mix. Light to medium-bodied, sinewy tannin helps add presence. Here I get a light syrupy quality to the fruit, helps it with that tannin. Adds decent florality here as well as something like anise. good balance and after a few sips you sense it coating the palate cheek-to-cheek. Stays in motion but feels relaxed about it. Sour finish. Incredibly easy to drink and every sip brings a smile. (Synthetic Cork)
2021 Bedrock Zinfandel, Sonoma Valley, Monte Rosso Vineyard. Dense purple core but not opaque, thin dark ruby rims, colorful without undue saturation. Perfumed nose of licorice, caraway seed, potpourri and mixed berry/cherry fruit which seems more taut than expressive, maybe some white citrus zest as it opens, squarish dissolve. Full-bodied with a smooth polish to it and a clear acceleration through the finish. Mildly tannic, don’t think its structure is any real reason to wait on it. The fruit here much juicier than would have guessed based on the nose. Same musky florality. Veers towards leather and earth while clinging to a spicy, extended finish. Admittedly I sat on this for a few months but sort of surprised at how approachable the palate is (not so much the nose). I’m sure some time in a decanter would even help further, didn’t do that. Majority Zinfandel, small unspecified percentages of Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, Tempranillo.
2021 Bedrock Syrah “California.” Heavy glow to the purple to magenta coloration, spotless with an opaque core. Nose displays a solid jolt of beef jerky, black olives and orange peel, light iodine touch, gets more floral as it opens, minute trace of rubber, curiously the plum to black cherry scents the most demure element. Full-bodied, sleekly polished and barely touches the palate on the way down the gullet. Tannin nibbles more than bites, consistent at a low level. Here the blueberry, blackberry cherry fruit leaps right out at you, opposite of the nose. Eucalyptus, orange zest, more pit than olive flesh. Dewy floral perfume with a spicier aftertaste. Very approachable and dare I say borderline “hedonistic.” Grapes sourced from plantings in Alisos Canyon, Ballard Canyon, and Cat Canyon with smaller percentages from Bien Nacido, Hudson, and Weill Vineyards. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2017 Ladd Cellars Tempranillo, Sierra Foothills, Alney Vineyard. Throwing some sediment, contributes to a slightly cloudy liquid, kind of plum reddish purple core, more rust red further out, full rims. Good brightness to the red cherry fruit in the nose, then a potpourri musk and vanilla powder, some earthiness but no funk, very full overall. Medium-bodied, there’s solid sourness which tends to pull it back from feeling full-bodied. Same cherry fruit, here more plummy as well as with a light roast. Savory herbs over florality, tempers any inclination to sweetness. Tannin accrues with each sip adding dryness. Enunciates clearly the grape’s personality and, dare I say it, would be a decent ringer in a Rioja tasting. I would say it’s peaking, no need for the structure to knit in further, just risk losing fruit. (Composite Cork)
2021 Reichwage Winery Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, Twin Hills Vineyard, “Rose of Pinot Noir.” Light metallic pinkish orange, salmon hued, for the light hue still manages to look more solid than shiny. The nose more penetrating than fresh and bouncy, heavy on the citrus, mineral dust, the raspberry to red cherry scents just submerged some, the florality come out after it warmed. Full-bodied, strong acidity and has a saline edge to it, close to briny. More concentration here in the red fruits. But the citrus notes still leading the way. Lighter herbaceousness, this too heightened at room temp. Sturdy wine really deserves food next to it versus casual summer deck sipping. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2015 Sandlands Chenin Blanc, Lodi, Kirschenmann Vineyard. The gold hue has darkened some while retaining a green glint at certain angles, translucent in a clear manner. The nose has a nice zestiness to it, lemon citrus, minerality, pineapple, guava fruit scents, definitely on the tropical side of things, not a lot of textural depth though and staying power is an issue. Medium to full-bodied, displays a credible acidic backbone. Yet, there’s a hollowness to it. Which helps temper the bubblegum and whipped cream notes. The lemon zest keeps its edge here.The fruit is biting but also with moments of softer peach, apricot. Vanillin finish. Has lost some of the angularity of its youth but maybe some energy too. Nothing to get worked up over but good bottle of wine and perhaps a fitting end to my tastings of Sandlands Chenin.
2021 Maître de Chai Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg, Wilson Vineyard, “Kierkegaard.” Clean and bright yellow straw color, soft green tint, semi-dilute rims. Angularly forceful nose of green apple, pear to peach scents, dusty minerality, sand, white citrus, not a lot of flesh on its bones, gets a little briny as it warms. Medium-bodied, the acidity shows off its muscles right from the start, sour pucker throughout. Fruit seems more tart and tropical, citrus more prominent, yet at the same time there’s a powdered sugar aspect to provide some balance. Overall, for my palate this comes off as underripe and ungiving even if energetic. In my experience most Vouvray sec have more give and suppleness than this. This resists efforts to let it soak in. Let the last glass get fully to room temperature and didn’t notice any difference. (Composite Cork)
2018 Domaine Guion Bourgueil, “Cuvée Prestige” (Cabernet Franc). Dark purple core, short of opaque, broad scarlet red rims, clean and shiny. No real funk to the nose, decent dose of bell pepper, fragrant red berry to red currant fruit scents with a floral patina, moderate lift. Medium-bodied, round and supple, the tannin more peppery than drying. Fully ripened fruit, even more berryish here. More floral, less bell pepper. Adds in a dash of leatheriness and a lingering minerality. For all that ripeness there is also a tautness, especially through the finish. Drinking very nicely, checks most of the boxes for Loire Cab Franc and would likely be appealing to non wine geeks. Still under $20 too, nothing here to quibble about.
NV Hubert Clavelin & Fils Crémant du Jura, “Brut-Comté Tête de Cuvée” (Chardonnay). Generous mousse during the pour, mostly dissipates quickly enough. Bright golden color, shiny with a steady stream of bubbles in the core. Crisp nose of yellow apple, peach fruit, crushed stone, lemon zest with a little brioche to moderate things, shows more power than finesse and does last a good long while. Medium to full-bodied, the pétillance creates a bubbly froth as it hits the palate, you feel like you have to quickly shut you mouth so it doesn’t dribble down your chin. Dry with close to bracing acidity, creates a generally sour profile. No lack of white orchard fruits, in no way underfruited. Minerally, touch of lemon to white grapefruit but here there’s nothing to really balance it out so personally I find it a bit shrill. Letting it warm didn’t change things. Serviceable but wouldn’t seek out again.
2017 Alpha Estate Xinomavro, Amyndeon, Barba Yannis Vineyard, “Vieilles Vignes Reserve.” Plum red to violet core, more burnt red along the thin rims, slightest haze to it, visually fills the glass nicely. There’s a little sweaty funk to the nose at first which blows off in favor of semi-candied strawberry, rhubarb fruit scents, something close to menthol or pine, violets, and sassafras, comes across as very primary. Medium-bodied, smooth without seeming too polished, grazes the palate as it glides by. Here too the red to blue fruits is the clear centerpiece, flavorful more than sweet. Still has that mentholated lift thing going on. Acidity is so-so, more tannic albeit not “tannic” per se. Maybe some lemon zest in there but if so weak. Keeps me picturing a pine grove overlooking the Aegean sea, that kind of vibe. Very good wine, kinda pricey.
2022 Tiberio Montepulciano, Abruzzi, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (rosé). Very dark cranberry red to violet color, nice clarity but to me comes thisclose to looking light a standard red wine. Sinewy nose, calling it “vinous” seems redundant but there you have it, tart strawberry, apple to rhubarb fruit scents, white citrus, light brine quality, really doesn’t start to broaden until nearing room temperature. Medium-bodied, maybe it’s the power of suggestion from the coloration but comes off as pretty darn tannic. Acidity level feels normal for the wine. That aside, the red fruit is very focused and sour, brings a nervous energy to it. Light mineral water aspect, ferrous. The white grapefruit more evident when warming. This is my third vintage trying the wine and this is the most muscular and tightly wound of the bunch. Might put a bottle or two down to see where it goes.
2020 Angelo Negro Langhe Nebbiolo “Angelin.” Spotlessly transparent and reflective rust to rose red throughout, whatever color there is pushes fully into the rims. Tar, cinnamon, tobacco, orange peel and candied cherries contribute to a swirling action in the nose, plenty of lift, overall more muscular than pretty. Medium-bodied, uses what heft it has to spread fully across the palate. Tannin has punch yet rightsized for the whole, fully allows the cherry, red berry fruit to pour forth. More floral here, softens the profile. Conversely, leathery if not meaty. Tautly nervous finish. Accessible but still best with food. No prior experience with the producer, I liked this very much and would/will buy again. (Composite Cork: Diam3)
2021 Vincent Wine Company Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, “Noir.” Started serving around cellar temp, it shows a deep rose red, more washed out pink to orange tones around the rims, semi-translucent. Heavyset nose, dried herbal matter and tar, orange peel, the strawberry, raspberry to peach fruit scents an adornment at best, for me it’s really about its more “savory” components. Full-bodied and firm, strong tannic anchor. More tarry and minerally here, touch of brine as well. Pressed flowers, minor white citrus. The mixed berry to cherry fruit fares better here and stays concentrated through to the finish line. Always an interesting wine, I wish this vintage was a little lighter on its feet with accelerated pacing. Getting to room temp helped fatten it up and intensified the flavors but also slowed it down. (Composite Cork)
2019 Stark-Condé Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, Jonkershoek Valley. The core is as black as purple, through the crimson red rims you see its clarity, good shine but the blackness gives it an ominous look. Strong lift to the nose impelled by oak toast, an herbal twist, leather and something like volcanic soil, the black fruits up to the task but not spectacular, gets more angular as it opens, the toastiness the most lasting impression. Medium-bodied, compact with little wasted motion and a puckering finish. The toastiness here turns a bit creamier. More “grassy” than damper herbaceousness. The blackberry, black cherry fruit displays tang. Good retronasal action. Long, sinewy finish. Arguably more raw and untamed than its Californian peers in the $20-25 range. 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec. (Composite Cork)
2021 Entiat Mourvèdre, Washington, Columbia Valley, Rosé. Fully transparent while displaying a deep salmon pink to orange hue, looks metallic, great glass presence. The nose feels openly knit and heavy at once, cherry to red berry fruit, garden herbs, lemon juice, lightly wooly, lack of lift impairs scent separation so it “smells like a rosé.” Full-bodied, equally as heavy here, anchored on the tongue. Acidity is average, some residual tannin as one might expect with the grape. Guileless red cherry, strawberry, watermelon fruit, steady start to finish. Tastes as if from sandy poor dirt. Minor citrus twist at the end. Gets heavier as it warms. Never gets clumsy but would wish for more focused thrust to channel its power. Grapes sourced from Double D Vineyard. (Screwcap)
