2012 Ty Caton Sonoma Valley, Moon Mountain District, Caton Vineyard, “Tytanium.” The purple core dark enough to nudge into opacity, the equally dark crimson rims are showing some age. The nose is a potent mix of highly ripened black fruits and creamy caramel oak, although the latter has calmed down some, menthol and sweet tea leaf, this is not a wine built for subtle complexity. Medium-bodied and not as heavy as expected, moves forward at a steady regular pace. The tannin gets somewhat clumpy at times. Dense blackberry, cassis, plum fruit that’s thankfully more flavorful than outright sweet. Oak normalized and toasty, maybe it’s the volume of the fruit. More menthol, if not mint. Not much else. I’m fully on record that Ty Caton is one of my go-to guilty pleasure producers. Was in the mood for a BIG wine to go with chili. 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Syrah, 19% Petite Sirah, 8% Merlot, 5% Malbec.
2020 Lagier Meredith Syrah, Napa Valley, Mount Veeder. Rich, saturated purple core which still manages to skirt opacity, fat magenta rims, plenty of surface luster. There’s an erectness to the nose which throws you off a little, otherwise it’s juicy blackberry, boysenberry to raspberry fruit, minor smokiness, menthol builds as it opens, youthfully pure and unevolved. Medium-bodied and just that as the tannin clamps down and provides more of a sense of pressure on the palate. Past the tannin the fruit gloriously takes centerstage, explosive flavor. Twist of olive pit and white pepper and then that menthol, maybe some orange zest. No gamey aspect. Way primary, remaining bottles won’t get near a corkscrew for a long time.
2022 Bedrock Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley, Bedrock Vineyard. On the pale side but there’s a gentle glow to the green-yellow hay hue, persists well enough into the rims. Tangy nose which brings energy from the first sniff, white grapefruit as well as boundless mango, papaya, melon to pear scents, mint, good edge to the herbaceousness, a few clay notes, only complaint is that it lacks staying power, maybe too front loaded. Full-bodied, there’s a certain heaviness as it enters the mouth. Has zesty enough acidity to rectify this as it gets closer to the finish line. Quite citrus driven which gives it cut and bite. Curiously, here the fruit is less tropical than the nose, even factoring in acidity, lots of melon. Not that “green,” would actually welcome some grassiness in the mix. Really like the energy level, holds your attention. However, hard to imagine many “duh” food pairings for it. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2016 Ladd Cellars Zinfandel, El Dorado County, Sierra Foothills, Avio Vineyard. Clear liquid, no saturation, runs a thin, if dark, purple to rust red, looks older than it is. Tart cranberry, red cherry to raspberry fruit scents impel the nose forward, grassy and sandy, licorice, grapefruit zest, zips through your nostrils so quickly there’s no time for aromatic lift. Light-bodied, this in spite of a thick tannic backbone. The reddish fruit sort of handcuffed and not able to spread widely. Stony with both white citrus and pickle brine notes. Bumpy ride but not volatile. Puckering finish. True to the winemaker’s intent, maybe it needs another five years to come into balance and soften. A couple hours open made no difference. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2015 Domaine de Vaccelli Vermentino, Corsica, Ajaccio, “Granit.” Last tasted just about a year ago, not much has changed. Richly glowing golden color, good clarity, nothing which would suggest its age. There’s a heavy cream to whipped cream aspect to the nose which gives way to a minerally smokiness, sharp pineapple, papaya, passion fruit scents, even some rubber after it warms, no lack of pungency. Full-bodied, determined to coat the palate from cheek to cheek. Not registering much acidity, if there it’s a blunt hammer. The piquant tropical fruit joined by grapefruit notes. Not nearly as much whipped cream as in the nose. General bigness gives it a measured pacing. As with the last bottle, like it a lot. But not sure what aged Corsican Vermentino “should be.” Maybe one day I’ll know.
2021 Catherine et Pierre Breton Cabernet Franc, Loire, Bourgueil, “Trinch!” Youthfully bouncy scarlet to purple, good clarity and while not glowing does fill the glass nicely. Some initial reduction to the nose, flatulence, slowly releases into red currant, cherry scents, ginger cookie, and tobacco, judicious bell pepper element, if anything it is a bit all over the place. Medium-bodied leaning to lighter, gently tannic with good flow forward. More herbal here but still shows a touch of spice. The fruit is ripe with just maybe some phenolic ripeness issues. The drying sensation through the back half suggests a little and who knows the might be related to lack of perceptible acidity too. Getting more leather as it opens. Solid, sturdy wine without any flamboyance, even with that good flow not juicy nor pliant enough for casual drinking. (Composite Cork)
2021 Domaine Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet Syrah, Rhône, Collines Rhodaniennes. Simple and attractive, deep purple fades into a pinkish magenta, perfect clarity, no hair out of place. The nose does give you a hard slap of barnyard funk and flatulence, keep swirling and you’ll get to red currant, cherry, plum fruit scents, ginger spice, leather, lavender and a mentholated lift, not particularly longlasting. Medium-bodied, smooth and fruity, tha tannin wiry and helps to elongate it rather than stomp it down. Here there’s some green olive and general herbaceousness, The citrus is there but never quite catches. Not getting anything close to gamey or even leathery. Touch of burnt cocoa and smoke. Tartness tightens up the finish. This is right in the zone for what a $20 Northern Rhône Syrah should be. (Composite Cork)
2021 Patrick Lambert Cabernet Franc, Loire, Chinon, “Les Deuzelles.” Nice brightness and clarity, reddish violet core with wide scarlet red rims, pretty with nothing really standing out. Tobacco smoke, cedar, celery to bell pepper notes in the nose, lean if not angular presence, the red currant to cherry scents rip right by you. Light-bodied, very streamlined here too with the added punch of both tannin and acidity, there’s no letting up. Not underfruited but nowhere near the focus. Poor brown dirt, stone and a dry grassiness are centerstage. Not getting much bell pepper here. Raw, unvarnished energy with a biting finish. These days the 12.5% alcohol is noteworthy. Needs fatty meat and will stand up to it. (Composite Cork)
2021 Jean Perrier et Fils Jacquère, Savoie, Abymes, “Cuvée Gastronomie.” Not hueless but in the range of white to yellow straw, pale glow, average shine. Strong bubblegum aspect to the nose, florals, lemon zest, lighter brush of crushed white stone, the peach, apricot, pear fruit does the job suitably enough. Medium-bodied plus, not much lift so by default it pushes down into the palate. A deep sourness builds quickly. Acidity level is good, a blunt sort of feel, no cut. Rose petals, lemon to tangerine citrus, nutty, that bubblegum thing weaves in and out. Here the fruit swing more tropical with pineapple, mango notes alongside the apricot and peach. Goes for long finish over cleanliness. Over the years I have found this producer to be a solid contender when looking for something a bit off-center under $15. (Composite Cork: Diam1)
2022 Mas de Cadenet Provence, Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire Rosé. Extremely pale, close to hueless, pink with a touch of yellow onion skin, decent shine but somehow manages to look more block-like. The nose manages an oily, smoky edge, more stony than floral, vaguer grassiness in the background, the strawberry, peach, raspberry scents subtle to evanescent. Medium-bodied, strikes me as firm for a rosé of its ilk with an impression of more tannin than acidity. The fruit is more forward yet this is nowhere near fruity (not that it should be). Here you get a more minerally touch than oily. Something reminiscent of gin botanicals. Semi-sour finish. There’s got to be an audience for wines like this but I’m not one of them. 45% Grenache, 45% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. (Composite Cork)
2022 Selvagrossa Marche, “Muschén.” Day-glo black purple coloration, dense magenta rims, hard to imagine more saturated hue. Dusty nose of poor dirt, leather and dry grasses, balanced out in large part by liqueur like cherry, red berry scents, has an overall welcome rugged profile and plus staying power. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied with a webby tannin which soaks up excess sweetness from the fruit while allowing the latter to run free. Fruit turns tangy towards the finish, especially as a citrus element appears. Kind of smoky as well. The unoaked nature comes through well and helps it stay balanced. Burly finish. For under $20 gonna keep a few bottles on hand for whatever comes up. 50% Sangiovese, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. (Screwcap)
2016 Kelby James Russell Riesling, Finger Lakes, Nutt Road Vineyard, “Dry.” Darkening gold color, strong glow to it but generally flat with little shine, The nose seems advanced as well, just about all rubber notes, moderate white citrus zest, echoes of pineapple, peach, passion fruit scents, maybe some mint, staying power is decent but uninteresting. Close to full-bodied, thickly muscular, acidity is strong in a blunt fashion. Fruit maybe a notch or two higher here, the citrus more prominent. Then there’s the rubber in full effect. Slate sort of stoniness. Quite sour finish and on the dry side, truth in advertising on the label. To me lacked generosity so I never was able to warm to it. (Screwcap)
2021 Vincent Wine Company Gamay Noir, Willamette Valley. Crisp ruby-violet, sparkly shine, fully transparent. Touch of horse hide at fruit then the nose mostly mixed berry fruit, sand and dusty smoke, no greenness, oddly not getting any citrus either. Medium-bodied, just the right amount of tannin to firm it up and allow the acidity to glide it towards the finish. Tart and lively blueberry, raspberry, blackberry fruit, neither red nor back fruits have the upper hand. Here the white citrus delivers, particularly past the mid-palate. Sort of underbrush herbaceous quality builds at the end too. Drinking quite nicely now, suspect it might get earthier still with age. I’m likely to drink all mine in the near term. (Composite Cork)
