2010 Ceritas Pinot Noir Annabelle - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (1/6/2014)
Medium garnet in color, has what seems like the telltale Russian River nose of crushed berries, spice, and pine, then rich, succulent, but reserved medium cherry/raspberry fruit, lovely spice and earth, great acidity, a mouth full of flavor that draws you back quickly for another gulp. Good richness and intensity, but not a drop of candied or syrupy character. A terrific California Pinot, full of deliciousness. (92 pts.)
2011 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc (1/5/2014)
Very nice, fights above its weight with nice flavor intensity, great cut, a light hint of dried pineapple, fresh and crisp, with a little burst of flavor on the medium finish. Well worth its tariff. (88 pts.)
2010 Lucien Crochet Sancerre Le Cul de Beaujeu - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre (1/2/2014)
Deliciously ripe, even flamboyant, with intense dried pineapple and mango, hints of grapefruit, might be almost over the top, but the wonderful acidity holds things together. A winter-styled Sauvignon Blanc if there is such a thing. I like this quite a lot, but not blown away as I was with my first bottle last year. I think I’ll drink my remaining bottles sooner rather than later. (92 pts.)
2004 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (12/31/2013)
New Year’s Eve, almost a decade old, a somewhat softer, “lesser” vintage, have a few more, seems like time to open one. And glad I did! Fairly dark red, though not opaque, medium bodied, shows really nice, though slightly reserved intensity, dark cherry, some earthy truffle, touch of grilled meat, and a nice dried cherry hard candy note; mild, fine tannins, good acidity, still quite young but drinks very well. I wouldn’t hesitate to open one now, but it will improve and develop the trademark Chave leather/truffle/mushroom notes over the next decade and more. (94 pts.)
1985 Fonseca Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (12/26/2013)
Has softened a bit since the last time I tried one, probably 10 years ago, still quite dark garnet, no real age showing, though no longer completely opaque; deep, sweet plum and marionberry, with notes of anise and tar, even a little nutmeg, and a nice warming heat on the finish. Tannins are present, but fairly soft and supple, and this seems to be in an early phase drinking window that should hopefully last a decade or two. Cork in this bottle was very firm and snug. This note is from the 3rd night, so after 48 hours open and kept in the fridge (stoppered), and is the most expressive so far - I would recommend a long, cool decant, as the wine was much more primary on first opening. (93 pts.)
2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese - Germany, Nahe (12/8/2013)
A year with more density and viscosity, loaded with intense dried apricot and pineapple, good acidity, quite a bit of sweetness, and an enduring finish. Still young, fresh, and relatively undeveloped, but a pleasure to drink. (93 pts.)
2011 Halcon Vineyards Syrah Alturas - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands (12/8/2013)
Dark, though not completely opaque, garnet, I get some light crushed berries and a hint of garrigue on the nose; very nice, intense, almost cool flavors of dark boysenberry/pomegranate, fine tannins, a little burst of sweetness that is subsumed by the mouthwatering acidity that drives through the finish. Everything Syrah should be, drinking nicely now, and should develop for many years. (92 pts.)
2002 Dehlinger Syrah Estate Bottled - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley (12/7/2013)
Color is a youthful deep, dark garnet. Still young and fresh, but does seem to have entered the early phase of its drinking window (which I would expect to last another decade, at very least). Deep blackberry/pomegranate fruit, strong acidity and excellent overall balance. It’s definitely a California Syrah, but in all the good ways, without being overripe, over-oaked, overly sweet or syrupy. Very nice bottle. (91 pts.)
2005 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese - Germany, Nahe (12/6/2013)
Nice, light medium hay color, also fairly light nose, with some hints of honeyed flowers; very pretty, almost delicate, but flavorful palate, light apricot and orange peel notes, finish fades a little quickly, and acidity is on the low side. Not sure this is going to make old bones, but it is quite nice now. (91 pts.)
2005 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Windsbuhl - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC (12/4/2013)
From a half bottle with a perfect cork. Quite a lot of color, which doesn’t bode well, then developed (though not clearly oxidized) notes on the nose; palate shows plenty of what would have been rich fruit, but it is advanced far beyond what a 2005 should be at this point. Consistent with the Indice 1 on the bottle, fairly dry, with oxidized notes of quince and overripe peach, and an unpleasant steeliness on the finish. Not rating this bottle.
2004 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Riesling Auslese - Germany, Pfalz (12/3/2013)
From a half bottle that showed signs of leaking, though the cork was in good shape. Shows a bit of golden color, with an enticing nose of very slight petrol, old hay, persimmon; deeply flavored, with moderate sweetness, hints of apricot, peach, red apple skin, showing a bit of age but still quite fresh, with very nice acidity. This has the chance to make old bones and become something special. (93 pts.)
2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley (11/12/2013)
My 1000th note, and it seems fitting to do it with one of my favorite California producers. The old saw that you buy producer, not vintage, is apt for this wine. A tough vintage, but Mike pulled another rabbit out of the hat with this wine, which shows ripe lush fruit on the nose, and follows with tangy, spicy, zinberry fruit on the palate, fabulous acidity, nice medium weight, and some interesting complexities with notes of anise and dried herbs. A wonderful Zin. (92 pts.)
2011 Copain Chardonnay Laureles Grade - USA, California, Central Coast, Carmel Valley (11/6/2013)
Reserved, slightly lean stone fruit, hints of lemon curd and saline, a nice limestone minerality underpinning, and just the slightest touch of tartness on the finish. Really lovely, almost delicate Chard, this could have originated in Chablis just as easily as California. (91 pts.)
2008 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru (11/4/2013)
Shows a little color at first, but seems to light slightly with air time; young, very fresh and crisp, with minerally yellow peach fruit, hints of toast, bit of lemon curd, beautifully balanced. Years away from maturity, assuming it can make it that far. (92 pts.)
2007 Weingut Keller Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen Abtserde (“Abtse®.de”) Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel Auction - Germany, Rheinhessen (10/7/2013)
Light nose, subtle hints of fruit, clean, no petrol; starts out with excellent acidity, quite rich and lush fruit, a big dose of red apple, but with air, and as the wine warms, that acidity fades, and things get a bit flabby, the palate becomes simple, sweet, pleasant, but quite plain. Just not very exciting, and definitely does not live up to the hype this bottling gets. (87 pts.)
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I’ve been keeping a bottle easily accessible in my storage, sounds like it might be time to open it.