A decent lunch, Paulee style (Friday March 27, 2026)

[Steve_McL]

As all true sons and daughters of Maine know, “decent” is the descriptor-of-choice when you wish to signal that
A. Something is good, even superlative
and
B. You are not “from away”

I defer to other worthies to share tasting notes, but suffice to say, lunch was decent.

@Alex_Valdes @Nick_Christie and “I AM smiling” @MChang about to dig in

Champagne starters, “Holy Moly division”.
It wasn’t a fair fight for the Comtes (very good); Salon, is my desert Island champagne. Thank you much, @dcornutt and Nick.

Next up, Raveneau le Clos, 11 vs. 13, courtesy of Michael Lustig and @Andrew_K who commanded, “Oysters people, get busy!” As they say in the fashion world, Very correct. Great stuff.

Cros Parantoux 90 vs. 96. My first exposure to this Jayer-farmed Vosne parcel that the ever-reliable Steen Ohman of Winehog calls the sweet spot of Richebourg. (CP is nestled above Riche).

The 90’, fresh as a daisy, was my WOTP (Wine of the Paulee), thanks to @Matthew_King, aka: Zelig. He materialized everywhere I turned in NYC with eclectic, memorable bottles in hand. Kudos to Alex V for the 96.

In case lunch wasn’t over the top yet, Michael C shared dueling Chambertins.
By now we were attracting attention from other diners.

And then there was one.

There are tastings when you spit, and tastings where you swallow. Folks were moving a little slow after a bibulous Thursday night and then the morning’s Verticals, but these brave souls roused to heroic effort.

Reader, we did not spit.

[MChang]

I’ll post full notes when I have time to compile them but I thought the 13 CDC was drinking significantly better than the very tight 13 Salon. I thought the 13 Clos was phenomenal; I love 13 Raveneau. The 11 Clos opened up over time. The 90 Cros P was phenomenal, one of the best wines of the weekend while the 96 was a bit off on the nose. The 99 and 2000 Trapet were both very good and the 99 especially fresh and lovely, but it was interesting how light bodied they were compared to the other Trapet Chambertin from verticals. 09 Mugnier was phenomenal and far outshined the 17 from the prior day.

[Matthew_King]

It’s always suspect when whoever brings the bottle crows about it. But I have to crow about the Rouget (Jayer) 90 Parantoux.

@Nick_Christie expertly wrestled with a nasty cork and @Andrew_K deftly poured. When he said “We’re on” I breathed a sigh of relief.

Total Jayer nose … Vosne Christmas spice. Exquisite color. Prototypical mouthfeel and texture — the velvet glove. So fresh and long.

The Professor aka @Alex_Valdes assured me that Jayer made this wine in his early fake retirement with his nephew. There’s always debate about when regimes change, e.g. at Dujac, Coche etc, but this felt and tasted very Jayer-like.

My red wine of the year so far.

Alex also endeared himself by being on Team Krug relative to Salon, very much a minority opinion with my PAULEE crew this weekend. But I found the 13 Salon had great effervescence and sinewyness (is that a word? )

The 09 Mugnier Musigny was the final straw for me. I may have to admit that Michael Chang might be right — 09s could be better than 10s. Such power and grace. After drinking the tired Vogue Musignys at the Verticals, the Freddy wine lifted my spirits. Great bring, Steve.

The Rouget:

The Professor holding court:

[dcornutt]

Great notes Matt. So happy Alex joined us too!

I loved all the wines. Raveneau Clos is one of my favorites. The 90 Rouget Cros Parantoux was perfect .Everything in place with Vosne pyrotechnics on the nose. A special texture. probably THE wine of the weekend . The JF Mugnier Musigny 09 was in a perfect place. So complex and sexy Beautiful aromatics

Thanks Nick and Michael for the invitation. Loved seeing everybody. That was actually the best part.

[Jim_Stewart]

wicked good!

[Steve_McL]

Jim sah! Jeez I guess so…

[Karl_K]

Love the color on the Rouget!

[dcornutt]

Steve. This is such an excellent synopsis of the luncheon and incredible read. It was so good to be with you. Still remembering the 1990 Rouget Cros Parantoux.

[Mike_Grammer]

what I like most about the read and pictures is how happy and involved everyone seems to be. My heart warms.

[Nick_Gangas]

My theory on the Rouget ? It doesn’t make sense to me that a small winery would separate their facilities and winemaking process. I’d guess the wine was all made together and then Uncle Henri selected his cuvees first.

[MChang]

A few of us gathered at Quality Italian for a quick lunch during Paulee weekend.

2013 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

Wide open and ready for business, with beautiful lemon curd, stone fruits, and lightly toasted brioche. The palate had crisp acidity and some white peach and citric cream, and the finish was very long. In some years the Salon will likely surpass this wine but not today.

2013 Salon Le Mesnil

Incredibly tight but coiled full of potential. A hint of lemon zest on the nose, and the palate revealed a tiny bit of citrus and stone fruits alongside massive acidity. The finish was long. Visit again in 5-10 years.

2011 Francois Raveneau Le Clos

Initially a bit reticient on the nose, but demonstrating pretty white peach and honeysuckle. Some flint and crisp acidity on the palate, which was also tight, but opened up with some time in the glass. Very long finish. Excellent pairing with oysters and prawns.

2013 Francois Raveneau Le Clos

Wide open; I’ve been a huge fan of 13 Raveneau and this was no exception. Some lemon curd, hay, and eggshell on the nose, with saline elements on the palate and a brisk core of acidity. Finish was a bit rounder but very pleasant.

1990 Emmanuel Rouget Cros Parantoux

This was tremendous. Supposedly made by Henri Jayer in this vintage for his nephew, this was a showstopper, with haunting aromatics of ripe red plums, baking spices and soft forest floor and vibrant morels. The palate was supremely elegant and soft with weightless power and depth. The finish was eternal. Whether or not this was a Jayer wine, it was absolutely delicious.

1996 Meo Cazumet Cros Parantoux

This wasn’t done any favors by being opened next to the tremendous 90, and had a little bit of an off putting medicinal underripe ocean spray note on the nose along with some wet leaves. The palate was very pretty and the finish was long, but it was hard to get past the bouquet.

1999 Trapet Chambertin

Incredibly fresh, with beautiful aromas of red currants and soft loam. Restrained classic burgundy on the palate with more red fruits and crisp acidity. Finish was incredibly long. This was not a huge wine, but had great tension and structure with beautiful fruits.

2000 Trapet Chambertin

Hint of VA which quickly blew off. Some darker fruits and earth on the nose. Not quite as fresh as the 1999, but vibrant acidity and fruit on the palate transitioned into a punchy finish. Very nice.

2009 Mugnier Musigny

Like other 09s this was joyously open, generous, and exploded from the glass with red currants, soft dark earth, and some fall leaves and a hint of cloves. The palate was super lush, with crisp acidity and rounded core, with a super long finish. There was much more mid-palate intensity and depth. This was unapologetically powerful and beautiful, great wine! As I’ve said, I’m very high on 09s now. This didn’t have any of the mid-palate lightness that the 17 Mugnier musigny had, so we’ll see how that does in time.

[wbkeene]

Bought a single 2013 CdC to try the wine for the first time. Never had the Comtes before.

[MChang]

It’s good! I slightly prefer the 12 but 13 is great

[Nick_Christie]

It’s wonderful to see Michael’s notes today. Both to be reminded of this amazing lunch & also so that I feel less compelled to be a completionist in my own notes. Michael and I share a lot of the same sentiments. Particularly on the accessibility of the Champagnes & thoughts up & down the lineup.

I remain haunted at the 1990 Rouget Cros Parantoux. I have been pondering how best to describe its ethereal nature.

What comes to mind is a passage from one my favorite Novels Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell. There is a scene where a Faerie King is preparing to re-emerge into a (very grounded) 19th century England. A skilled valet ultimately is drawn this realm of influence and we observe multiple hours of dressing. Finishing with the intricate arrangement of a dozen Muslin Neckcloths of the finest silk “each as light as a cobweb & as stiff as music paper.”

This wine felt simularly constructed. So many layers. Such lightness. Yet still vibrant and with hints of youth. As if someone had made a tincture of fresh fruit from the 2025 Harvest and sprinkled a few drops into every glass.

Stunning. Supernatural, even.

[P_L_owet]

Literary metaphors aside , it’s awesome when super-high expectations are exceeded.

[MChang]

Yeah I’m a bit behind on my notes; finishing up the Noreetuh notes then the twin tails dinner before getting into my assessment of verticals and the grand tasting; I imagine I’ll have a lot to say about today too at some point

[Andrew_K]

@P_L_owet

Literary metaphors aside , it’s awesome when super-high expectations are exceeded.

It was only fair as the 90 Jayer Ech last year was corked.