A Day in Sitia with Wine Sculptor Gianni Economou

It was a 2019 Paliokalias vineyard. I’ve also had the Naoussa which I thought was pretty good.

Yes, I think you’re right, thinking back on my conversation with Gianni.

Indeed. Gerovassiliou later continued to work with Assyrtiko at Biblia Chora. Overall, though, I think what he will probably be remembered for more is his work with Malagouzia.

Excellent wines across the range. If you get a chance to taste their old-vine bottling, it is simply outstanding. A bottle of the 2006 Dalamara Vignes Franches (hand-made label, it was a 100% franc de pied bottling back then) was a true eye-opener for me. Having previously had a chance to taste a number of older bottles of Naoussa from the '80s and '90s, I was already a big fan, but that bottle totally transformed my perspective in terms of what else was possible. Pure magic.

Now on my CT wish list. I’ll look out for the old vines Dalamara when I’m back in Greece next year. One of the many positives about Greek wine is that many (but not all) of the country’s soils allow for ungrafted vines and hence unmediated expressions of grapes.

I had this a couple of times recently, and you summed it up well. The texture and concentration had me wondering if there was a cold soak or maybe even a tiny bit of maceration done. However it’s made, this is an absolutely fantastic expression of Assyrtiko.

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