A classification, vintages and impressions of Loire reds

[Julian_Marshall]

A couple which were ideal for the cold weather:

2004 Cuvée Crescendo - Clos de l’Echo - Couly-Dutheil - Chinon

Still a little oaky, but otherwise the nose is full of strong, deep aromas of blueberries, blackberries, plums and black cherries, with hints of spices and herbs. Much the same on the palate, a medium to full-bodied mouthful of dark fruit, but nothing overdone and followed by a crisper wave of cool blackcurrant and violets, with a suitably crescendo finish. Very impressive and still only an adolescent. 93 pts

I’ve had this several times over the last ten years. If the last bottle in 2022 was the worst, this was the best. I don’t think it will ever be quite as good as the 01 or the 97, but it’s still an excellent wine. In terms of style, I would say that like the 03, it’s in the middle of the transition from the earlier, more restrained wines, towards the more powerful, concentrated wines produced today.

2005 Château de Coulaine - La Diablesse - Chinon

Like their Picasses, this has loganberries and strawberries on the nose, with red cherries and herbs, but also a hefty dollop of brett, and despite a long decant, it never blew off. So in the mouth, fruity and savoury, creamy red fruits but also sweaty, leathery notes with a hint of meat stew. Still very enjoyable, because I don’t mind a bit of brett, but not quite as good as the Picasses 05. Probably just a bretty bottle. 91 pts

Trying these together last night, I had to chuckle - when I first got into Loire reds, I remember reading something disparaging about the whole region’s red wines by RMP. If I ever hosted a fantasy dinner party with him, these are the sort of wines I would serve.

[MCasnoff]

I just opened a 2012 Olga Raffault La Singulière, inspired by diving into another thread on LPSJ recently. But thought I’d put my thoughts here where they might be more relevant, maybe even useful? Although I’m doubtful, alas I’ll try…

This bottle is shy. When I opened it, I poured a splash in my cup; it had an intense and powerful smell of strawberries and a shockingly vibrant, sweet floral roundness. But in the 30 seconds it took me to take a sip it all disappeared. Vanished. Berries turned to wet steel, and on the palate, a good amount of grip, but I might describe the taste as watered down rocks with a touch of pencil shavings…

So I banished the bottle to the decanter and left the house. Checking back in now, about 5 hours later. Its definitally improved. You certainly notice the oak on this bottling. And now it appears there once was fruit to be tasted, however its all falling pretty flat. Perhaps I need to pair this with food, rather than an intellectual exercise, but I’ll check back in tomorrow. For now, I’d call this a solid table wine, not worth the price or the fuss.

[MCasnoff]

Also curious for anyone’s day two tasting recs I went back into the bottle from the decanter - that’s my typical program - don’t love a decanter out over night… any objections?

[MCasnoff]

@Robert.A.Jr

Eolithe

This is what I just drank… curios on your notes

[Brian_G_r_a_f_s_t_r_o_m]

@MCasnoff

Also curious for anyone’s day two tasting recs I went back into the bottle from the decanter - that’s my typical program - don’t love a decanter out over night… any objections?

Go for it! I’m wondering if your bottle might be slightly corked; Day 2 may shine some light on that thought.

[Julian_Marshall]

I had a couple of bottles of La Singulière 2012 back in 2019 and 2020 and enjoyed both of them. Your first impressions of strawberries and floral roundness match mine very closely, but neither of my bottles fell apart like your one did. It could be a tired bottle, or it could be the vintage - 2012 wasn’t the best in the Loire and perhaps the wine has just faded. Or it could be that you just don’t like it - which is fine! Each to their own and there isn’t a “right” or “wrong”!
I do find that bottles often improve by the second day so I’m curious as to what happened next!

[A_M-i-l-l-e-r]

I don’t think I had any of the 2012 but I’ve definitely gone 2-3 days with this wine where I started it in the decanter on day one and then put it back in the bottle with a cork. Echo others’ sentiments, this is a persistent bottling that typically hangs around for a few days quite well.

That said, I’ve stopped buying this wine. The oak didn’t sit well with me. The wine also felt at times a little over the top. I prefer Les Picasses.

[MCasnoff]

Day 2 report, Fruit has returned, some spice, very little acidity - if any.

I like this wine more now, but it’s a bit monotoned nonetheless. The oak is more present than I was expecting, and without acid or more chiseled fruit to, I feel like it steals the show a bit. And I’m not anti-oak by any means. Anyways a much more refined wine on day 2 and much closer to what I was expecting from the bottle, but isn’t blowing me away.

[JakobS]

2019 Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Galichets

Opens with a nice floral violet perfume on the nose, over fresh red and dark forest fruits. This continues on the palate, joined by more savoury and herbal notes of licorice, some leather and dusty notes, and some pyrazine tones of green herbs and a bit of bell pepper (but not overpowering). Unmistakably Loire cab franc. The interplay between the fresh berry fruit, the floral notes and the more savoury notes feels very balanced and satisfying here. Slightly chalky texture. The tannins are still quite grippy and drying. Good acidity. Given the structure and youthfulness of this, I suspect this will improve with more time in the bottle.

[Yule_Kim]

@JakobS

2019 Domaine de la Chevalerie Bourgueil Galichets

Very nice producer (and nicely priced too). Feels like they are under-the-radar.

[Bob_Hoelting]

• 2019 Domaine de la Cotelleraie Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (1/13/2026)
  This is really hitting its stride now. Compared to two years ago, it has fewer seams in the fabric and there’s still plenty of fruit being delivered in the bouquet. A little volatile acidity at the pop but it dispersed quickly. Whatever the abv happens to be, it is completely opaque to the senses… so refreshing. Even the Mrs complimented the pairing with our cheeseburgers tonight. 5+11+16+8= 90 (90 points)

My expectation of the fruit fading away was certainly unwarranted

• 2019 Domaine de la Cotelleraie Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil (1/1/2024)
  Notes on the second day open. Dark, inky purple color with big chunky sediment. Medium intensity nose of black licorice, green pepper, roses, maybe a little brett. Quite grippy with tannins and rustic and snappy with acidity. Not sure about the fruit holding up for long so I will get to my last one within a year or two. 5+10+17+7= 89 (89 points)

[Phil_T_r_o_t_t_e_r]

Joguet La Cure 2015

Warm vintage. Young Joguet. What could go right? Well, apparently, enough!

The nose is all black currant with both the ripe berries and the sun-kissed fragrant leaves. I was scared of having the palate follow-through on the black berry spectrum but this is showing a nice profile of red-berries, dried herbs and some earthiness. The tannins although still present do not scream young Joguet to me (neither coarse nor MMA in your face). The acidity is pretty much in line with the fruit and the tannins right now which makes this approachable with manageable air time (I had this opened for an hour and it was drinking well). I’m not seeing this as a long lived Joguet for my taste but it’s fun to drink right now. This was a decent pairing to sautéed gnocchi with pork shoulder, Masdam cheese and green onions.

[Brian_G_r_a_f_s_t_r_o_m]

2016 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) Bourgueil Clos Nouveau - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil (12/12/2025)
– decanted for 30 min. before initial taste –
– tasted non-blind over 2.5 hrs. –

NOSE: rich; classy; ripe, classy, red-fruited Cab. Franc goodness right here, showing flashes of pyrazine and light leather. Aromatically, this is incredible!

BODY: garnet-violet color of great depth; medium-light to medium bodied.

TASTE: medium+ to high acidity; flashy, but with fine tannins; alc. is not noticeable, but, in true Cab. Franc fashion, the pyrazine is. This is just so so gooood! — that is, until a hint of natty mouse begins to present itself. It’s not so strong as to ruin the experience, but I’d much rather it not be here. Light stony mineral aspect here, too. Low-level excellent, and that is despite the hint of mouse. This is the first time I’ve experienced the natty nature of the winemaking at Bel Air inure to the wine’s detriment, and I’m hoping it does not become a more regular occurrence. Drink or Hold.

[IlkkaL]

Damn, I don’t think I have the courage to decant my bottles if there is a risk of mouse. Hard to say when this one should be opened then as already the lower lever bottlings have seemed ageworthy.

[Brian_G_r_a_f_s_t_r_o_m]

My understanding of mousiness is that decanting does not impact it one way or the other. According to my CT data, I’ve opened 22 bottles of Bel Air; this is the first one that has had any hint of mousiness.

[LasseK]

Air heavily impacts mousiness.

[Otto_Forsberg]

@LasseK

Air heavily impacts mousiness.

This. Big time. If there is any risk of mousiness, decanting is a big no-no.

[Brian_G_r_a_f_s_t_r_o_m]

Thanks, guys. Guess I’ll be doing pop-n-pour for the foreseeable future with them.