This was exceptional- what a wonderful contribution to the lineup.
3 Likes
I was at the dinner with Jay and Jon last week, and the 2014 Pif showed better than ever, in my view much better than in its youth. I just saw @Robert.A.Jr’s note and it’s just as he wrote. It’s gone to the next level by finally transitioning from youth and a certain gawkiness, and now showing integrated, seamless, and layered. Great wine.
Two Raffaults and a Mabileau:
Olga Raffault - Les Picasses - Chinon 2009 and 2010
I was asked my opinion on these by someone organizing an event next year, because even with a 15 euro corkage fee, the 25 euros these are still available for from the domain make them good value at the restaurant. It’s always nice to have a good excuse!
2009:
The nose gives the game away - very winsome, full of ripe raspberry and strawberry, with some forest fruits and leaves in the background. Similar impressions on the palate, with the summer fruits quite sweet and charming, just held in check by some chalkiness and fading tannins on the finish. Very enjoyable but lacking a little gravitas. I’m not sure it’ll improve further but there’s certainly no need to drink up.
2010
Much less winsome all round. The same strawberry aromas, but with tomato leaf and green pepper, mixed with blackcurrant. On the palate, thicker than the 2009, darker fruits too - so blackcurrants and blackberries, quite deep, but subtle and even a little austere. The sort of wine that needs one to focus on the flavours, rather than take a step back from them. I wouldn’t have guessed this was a 2010. Satisfying however and an improvement from the last bottle tried in 2022, so I think it still has potential to improve further.
Of the two, I preferred the 2010, but I think the 2009 is the greater crowd pleaser. They’re both good, I suppose 91 pts level, but not wines I would choose to showcase Loire reds. There’s no question about the value they represent though.
Frédéric Mabileau - L’Eclipse - St.Nicolas de Bourgueil - 2015
This is developing nicely. The blueberry has gone, leaving blackberry and some saline notes amid the dark cherry and blackcurrant. It’s a model of elegance and refinement, so despite the ripe year, there’s nothing excessive, still less syrupy, about the fruit. The crispy, crunchy style favoured here doesn’t really show in 2015, which is much more classical and traditional.
Still several years from peak and will probably gain further in complexity. A delicious wine from an underrated producer. 93 pts
If I could source a case, this would have been my choice for the dinner. Much as I liked the two Picasses, this for me is better, no question. Mabileau wines come up occasionally at auction - definitely ones to go for. L’Eclipse is only produced in what they consider to be the best years, recent ones in in reverse order being 2018, 2017, 2015 and 2014. I picked up a couple more 2015s a couple of weeks ago for 25 euros a bottle, which was the release price.
6 Likes
Stater West Saumur La Ripaille 2019
A fruit forward, silky smooth Cab Franc. Hedonistic and stately at the same time.
Drank side by side with a new Moulin a Vent from Desjourneys with a very similar overall impression.
5 Likes
Thanks for the info - I had been debating whether to try one of his wines!
Les Clos Maurice Fernande Saumur Champigny 2020
A solid, serviceable fruity, spicy, earthy Cab Franc, but not really memorable.
2 Likes
Tried a bottle of 2021 Sanzay, the entry-level La Paterne. His Les Poyeux was the wine that converted me to cab francism, and that one remains one of my favorite bottles.
Antoine Sanzay - La Paterne - Saumur-Champigny - 2021
Alluring aroma of wild berries (both red and dark) and herby spice on the nose, some floral notes as well. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with marked acidity and a surprising amount of tannic grip. On the lighter side overall, consistent with the vintage. The wild berries continue on the palate, with some cassis and blackberry, some liquorice, and a nice savoury herbal element (but not edging over to bell pepper to my palate). Decent complexity, a good effort. I will let my remaining bottle age a few years, seeing as it seemed to have pretty solid structure.
6 Likes
It’s OK. Feels heavy and round in the bouche for the label’s 12.5%. Fruity and only the slightest whiff of green on opening that quickly faded practically before the first sip. Almost into the glou glou category. Been a very long time since I’ve had an Olga and I will chalk all of that up to the warm vintage. Delicious, just not exciting. I consistently drank better cab franc in Argentina for less money.
5 Likes
Hi All,
It pains be to write this post, but I think I have detected my most hated fault, mouse taint, in my favourite Loire producer, Bernard Baudry.
Opened a Les Granges 2023 on Friday. Smelt great no mouse on the nose, drank OK, with a very faint note of what I think of as mouse detectable retronasally. Had a glass on Saturday, still smelt great again, no mouse, but the mouse had grown on the finish. Still drinkable but left a nasty taste in the mouth. Night 3, still smelt fine but was totally undrinkable, down the sink it went.
I’ve never had this with a Baudry before. I always get a hint of the banyard with Baudry, which I like actually, but this was not that. I detect mouse in some natural wines I drink (I have a friend who only drinks natural wines, so I see it a fair bit).
Thoughts?
1 Like
That’s annoying!
Especially since most/all CT scores don’t mention it.
My only guess here is that you have received a bottling of the very last content in barrel, and so the wine could have seen enough exposure to develop taint, but seeing as this is generally a PH problem that doesn’t seem entirely convincing to me.
If it’s producers I trust and never had a mousy bottle from then I wouldn’t worry. I.e 2022 Bernaudeau Coqueries had a slight mouse taint, but to me their wines are not by default at risk despite the low intervention approach.
Shit happens.
1 Like
That’s tough - I’ve never experienced mouse taint with a Baudry; barnyard smells, as you say, yes, brett, yes too, quite a lot even, but never anything mousey. Could just be a bad bottle?
Never had a mousey Baudry. Wouldn’t be too concerned about it myself.
2 Likes
Thanks all, let’s just hope it’s a dodgy bottle. Is mouse associated as a bottle fault, i.e can happen in an individual bottle, or is it a whole “batch” fault?
I guess its mostly a batch fault. I do however think bad storage and other issues can accelerate the issue on a per bottle basis. But I still don’t fully understand it, I just know I can spot it before most people (well those I drink wine with)
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I’ve never detected mousiness in a bottle of Baudry.
Saying that only because you asked, not to suggest you’re wrong in your analysis.
Just chiming to say I’ve thankfully never detected mouse. That said I haven’t tried any 2023s yet and I mostly only buy grezeaux and Croix boissee.
This, exactly. Me too.
And for the record, I have never noticed any Brett, either. 
Yak palette, n‘est-ce-pas? Just saying 
1 Like
Three from the last couple months
2021 Domaine Bernard Baudry Chinon Le Domaine - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (6/12/2025)
Dark garnet, dusty dried herbs on the nose, with a hint of green, just enough depth of fruit to cover the pretty classic cab franc notes, a little stern, with some pyrazine bite, good acidity, fine but present tannins. Drinkable now, will soften and integrate with a few years in bottle. (88 points)
2022 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (8/28/2025)
Med dark garnet, medium body, has a pretty classic cab franc nose, not overtly vegetal, but enough to tip you off, plenty of flavorful fruit on the palate, with subtle hints of franc pyrazines, a touch if solar sweetness but not overly ripe or cloying, some moderate, chalky tannins, finishes with a light dose of rocky minerality. Uncomplex but quite pleasant. (88 points)
2022 Domaine du Bel Air (Pierre et Rodolphe Gauthier) Bourgueil Les Vingt Lieux Dits - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Bourgueil (9/11/2025)
Medium full body, some nice dusty, earthy cab franc notes on the nose, pretty classic franc on the palate, has some nice dark fruit, initially on the lush side, but tannins and light pyrazines kick in with air time. A nice qpr wine, with good medium term aging potential. (89 points)
6 Likes
Drinking this tonight:
2024 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (9/16/2025)
Dark garnet, medium body, has a slightly grapy nose, not a lot of obvious cab franc character here, palate follows the nose, pleasant enough darker red fruit, a bit on the fruity/grapy side, maybe a hint of some franc in there, decent overall balance, with good acidity and some mild tannic structure, but mostly just a simple, not unpleasant darker red wine. Will be fine with leftover pizza tonight, not buying more. (85 points)
2 Likes