2022 Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (11/10/2024)
Dark, nearly opaque garnet, medium full body, classic cab franc nose, a little dusty, small hints of green, with fall leaves; palate is reserved, darker fruit trapped in the genie bottle, excellent acidity, moderate, slightly chalky tannins. Not particularly complex, but enough interest to make this enjoyable even now. A somewhat backward, brooding wine, but I suspect will reveal much more in 5-10 years, and another qpr winner. (89 points)
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2020 Château de Chaintres Saumur-Champigny Clos des Oratoriens - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (10/20/2024)
– decanted shortly before first taste –
– tasted non-blind over 1-2 hrs. –
Clean, red-fruited with a little bit of pyrazine. 14.5% alc. on the label, and this does come across as quite ripe (but not thick and gloppy). Certainly not bad, but I’d like to see this more around 13.5%, as it did seem just a touch hot to me.
I like those. Always leaves me wanting more complexity but, like you say, solid value. Really nicely made. Nothing forced.
Domaine Olivier
2020 Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil VV
Less fancy wines also want to be drank. Those medals are usually a warning as serious producers normally don’t enter such contests. A correct CF dark fruit profile, with a touch of chocolate and a whiff of smoke. Mild tannins, good acidity. Nothing really distinctive here, just a solid, honest performer. One can do much worse for about 10-15 Eur. (I had to look it up as I have no clue where this bottle came from.)
A bit cheeky to ask in this thread, but how was the '22 Fornerol? I’ve been eyeing it up
That was Chardonnay, CdN village 2022. Not easy to find, I managed to get it for the first time, along with La Rue des Foins 2021.
Reductive at first, with some flint/matchstick notes, on the richer side, moderate acidity. Wouldn’t be out of place in a Meursault lineup.
From my limited experience you cannot go wrong with Fornerol.
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Picked this up at my LWS recently for $35. Obviously great vineyard pedigree, from a new, up and coming producer. This felt like a producer crossing a highly drinkable style, with typical Loire funkiness, and a high level vineyard. Definitely I’d like to try other/future vintages, as I liked this a lot given its (for now) modest price.
Sables Verts → green sands, named for the green sand soils in their vineyards.
- 2021 Domaine des Sables Verts Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny (11/9/2024)
I was in the mood for a Loire Franc--this delivered. Deep earth-funk and pasture aromas, with leafy inflections and raspberry in the background. Classic. What separates this from a typical rustic red is the palate refinement. Crunchy red fruited attack, medium plus acidity that is in balance, silky mid-palate in a mid-weight package, no impression of new oak. Waves of tobacco run from mid-palate to finish, good concentration and length. Fine tannins, just enough to give a bit of backbone, delicately extracted.
Aromas suggest Brett, but the palate doesn't have the screechy acidity or medicinal character of a badly Bretty wine. So for me this is a classic French red with a crazy nose and refined palate. I am not so sure about the drink until 2075 rec from Gilman. I'm certain this will be sneaky in its ability to age, but it's already drinking quite well and has good complexity, so why wait 50 years? Drink or hold. (91 points)
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Thanks Greg, that’s really useful. I’ve seen it occasionally and wondered whether or not to try one - now I will!
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A real winner this week:
Domaine des Roches Neuves - Saumur Champigny - Franc de Pied 2010
The bouquet is already different compared to other vintages tasted - less flowery, more mature, with old rose and wild strawberry, plus some tobacco and herbs. The attack is full of the usual red fruits, but not crunchy and sappy, more classic in style, more elegant too. The middle section is very much wild strawberry dominated, absolutely delicious, with red cherry coming back on the long finish. The word which came back to me over and over again was “suave”. The wine is smooth, elegant, understated, but above all it’s the suavity that is the most impressive. The best RN FDP I’ve had. 95 pts
Someone wrote about a RN wine, I forget who and about which wine, that it lacked soul - and I quite understood - I love the sappy style but it isn’t for everyone. The FDP 2010, however, is.
I think it’s the first time I’ve had a really fully mature FDP, and as you can hopefully tell from my musings so far, the taste and style have developed into something much more classical, without losing the essential bright freshness of the FDP vines.
Sadly older FDPs are very hard to find at auction - because they’re so delicious young, I imagine, but I’m certainly glad I have so many younger vintages ageing gracefully in my cellar.
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Wow, great note. Would love to try a more mature bottling.
It was probably me that made the “lacks soul” reference. Kinda like Paris Cornas, really great vineyards and winemaking, but just lacking that soulful character that I seek (the Geynale excluded from my comments). I should circle back and try them again, it’s been a while. I have always liked the FDP for its freshness, however.
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Cheers Robert - no, it definitely wasn’t you who thought the RN wines to be soulless (and it doesn’t matter anyway) - I know you’re a fan of the FDP wines. You’d certainly love this 2010. Knowing how good your suppliers are, you’ll probably find some!
2015 Domaine de Chevalerie Bourgueil Galichets.
This was a recent purchase from Chambers St. I’ve always liked this producer, honest Cab Franc at very good prices. The wines are typically not funky and seem to represent the terroir well. This bottle benefitted from air, and was still developing aroma and flavor the second day after opening it. Per the CSW website this vineyard is located mid slope, on limestone mixed with clay, sand, and silex. Vines average 60 years old. There’s a nice mix of fruit, black raspberry and soil/herb flavors. Some wet cement, beetroot and other cab franc things here. The fruit reflects the 2015 warm year with a sweet sappy edge, but it’s still cool toned Loire cab franc. With air a spicy cinnamon note comes out. Medium body and some persistence on the finish. 13% abv.
Very enjoyable. I think I prefer the Breteche bottling by Chevalerie, it’s a little more high toned but this was appealing. I think this is just opening into a nice drinking window and should be good for a number of years the way this bottle showed with good development on day 2.
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Sounds delicious. I have a 2014 in queue in my wine fridge. FDP is my favourite RN cuvée.
This sounds great! Glad you got to enjoy it, Julian. I posted a RN note recently-ish — on the 2020 FDP: my bottle was mousey, and I mentioned that plenty in my note. It would be nice to have a clean bottle, as I felt like it would be really nice without the mouse.
Thanks Marc- sounds good! I’m a fan of Chevalerie, normally buying their Busardières and Chevalerie wines, although I like the Bretêche too. The Grand Mont is their top wine for a reason but it’s hard to find. I’ve never tried the Galichets, but I bought a 2015 by accident so I’m looking forward to trying it now!
The 2014 is excellent too and it’ll be interesting to see if it develops as well as the 2010 - I look forward to reading your impressions!
Thanks Brian - yes, I remember your note on the 2020 - hopefully you were unlucky because I’ve got a few! I’ve never had anything mousey from RN so far, so fingers crossed!
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I wrote that on the whites, but my reds’ experience has been limited to Memoires. Will have to seek out the FdP now!
My cycling buddy @I_Howe gifted me a bottle this week so I popped it last night. Was an interesting split in the house. My sister and I found it a bit heavy and ripe, my dad, bro-in-law and son loved it. Definitely a crowed pleaser. Would love to see the ABV dialed back a bit. Paired with a 2010 Baudry Grezeaux, which had the inverse reaction. I think some secondary fermentation was going on with this Chaintres. Is this sulfur free? Was a subtle but identifiable note.
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Don’t know about it’s sulfur status. I’d check this wine again, in a cooler vintage.
Well fellow Berserker’s, I think I did it! I found a Loire Cab Franc that Alfert did not like. 
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