A classification, vintages and impressions of Loire reds

I opened my first Cotelleraie last night, the “village” bottling from 2018. It was lithe, clean, and incredibly fresh, bursting with fruit and savory herbs, and a joy to drink. You would never in a million years guess it was from 2018, given the reputation of the vintage. Under $20 Stateside. Amazing. I’d love to try theIr more structured cuvees, but I’d also love to buy more of this one.

Glad you liked it - Matthieu Vallée’s another rising star! There are so many. I ordered that 2018 over the weekend - pleased that I did - cheers!

Fully understand, but I needed to check what I bought without trying (and I was recommended to open this as opposed to the Grezeaux 2014). I actually finished the bottle the day after, and the wine hadn’t evolved a lot. Still a nice bottle and I look forward to following it.

I’m happy to see so many reports of people opening Baudry and not getting any Brett as it suggests that our “bad bottle” was a one off and the other one will be good, if not great. Fingers crossed.

Drank this tonight (a 2012). Very nice richness and balance. Very enjoyable to drink but not a great deal of complexity. Good wine for my wife and me for a Thursday night at home - of course, these days, all nights are my wife and me at home.

Glad you liked it - I bought a couple of 14s this week out of curiosity.

Please report back after you have opened a bottle. I am esp. interested in the following:

I am not an expert on Loire vintages. Isn’t 2014 a much better vintage than 2012?

Ann Claude Leflaive died in 2015. I wonder what this meant for vintages for 2014 on?

I’ll be sure to report back, Howard. 2014 is certainly better than 2012 in general, but whether or not the Clau de Nell 2014 is better I don’t know. Chris Kissack rates the 2014 at the same level as the 2012 - 16/20.
Not knowing much about the estate, I just read Chris’s profile of it. Anne-Claude Leflaive does not appear to have been too involved in the day-to-day running, so I should not imagine that her sadly premature death changed much: the biodynamic principles have been maintained.
Anyway, it’s a wine I’m keen to try.
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Howard I think 2014 is a fantastic, classic vintage. I think Chris prefers slightly riper vintages, which is fine. It is definitely better than 2012.

Thanks Julian and Robert. I don’t have that much Loire Reds but the vintage I have the most from is 2009, followed by 2010 and 2014 (tied for second).

No mention of L’Austral?

I tried a Clau de Nell Grolleau several years ago and thought it was interesting, but not worth revisiting. All of their prices strike me as high (not compared to Rougeard) with much better value offered by a dozen+ producers already listed in this thread.

RT

Thanks Richard, good to know.

Russell- I’ve heard of l’Austral, which I know has a rising reputation, with lots of younger fans - have you tried any?

Julian, three bottles just arrived. I’ll report back.

Crush NYC just offered:

The Chambolle of the Loire: 2018 Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Clos de l’Echelier

$60

Chambolle aside, how is this cuvée? I opened a young-ish one a while back, but just felt I couldn’t see through the structure very clearly.

I’ve had the 12 and 13. It’s quite good, not great, but ultimately hard to justify the price. I highlighted it as someone had mentioned on this thread, or perhaps another, that Kissack had rated Germain and Joguet 2018s quite highly.

Is it worth opening one of the 2018 Roches Neuves offerings, the pied Franc or Memories? I have more of the Pied Franc.

That’s helpful, thanks. Have my eyes peeled for the old vine fdp.

I’ve got bad news - here’s yet another excellent wine you really should all try:

Frédéric Mabileau - L’Eclipse - Saint Nicolas de Bourgueil 2010 and 2014

I included this producer in our little classification on the strength of his Coutures cuvée, which I had been impressed by, but I had never tried the top wine, L’Eclipse. I remember Elliot mentioned it several pages ago. He only produces it in good years - these are the two most recent. I opened them together last night, wanting to see the difference.

2010 - brambly and quite yeasty nose, with a broad, rich attack of blackberry, a hint of oak and then a touch of forest fruits, before a crisp, elegant finish. The fruit is a little overripe for my taste, but the crispness of the finish ensures that it doesn’t go overboard. As time went on, so the wine broadened and deepened, but without losing the elegance.

2014 - the nose is more floral, more fresh, more pure, with gently ripe notes of redder fruit. Quite easy to drink already, with again fresher fruit than the 2010, but less intense and less rich. Supremely elegant and refined, so even if it gained in weight during the evening, it never reached the depth of the 2010. There are some light tannins, but these are subtle, velvety and unobtrusive, giving the wine a backbone but not hitting you over the head.

They’re both excellent and it was hard to choose which I preferred - the 2010 impressed compared to the 2014, but the latter had more charm. They were both like a cross between a top Yannick Amirault and a top Joguet. I immediately ordered some more 2014, which I would say is ideal if you are looking for purity of fruit without a hint of green, funk or brett. Much as I enjoyed the Clos de L’Echo 2014 recently, this is much better.

Both were aged in new demi-muid barrels, so the quite large 600 liter ones. The 2010 spent 22 months in barrel, the 2014 was aged for 18 months, according to the bottles. I noticed some oak tasting the 2010, but none in the 2014.

Anyway, highly recommended and for the quality, good value - 25€.